Stephen

Exactly than my mucker. I never removed the passenger side bolt, no need so I couldn't of "mixed them up" however it would appear at sone stage it's been done and only now have I noticed, as I've never had to check.

Thanks yeah I was just checking. I would appear I'm missing the bolt labeled K. Both are unstamped.

Can anyone please clarify. The stock turbos have oil restrictors in place. From what I understand the drivers side is restricted in the oil sender block and the passenger side is restricted by the bolt which is marked K. Is this correct??

Do you have proper engine oil pressure? The senders do fail but it's a damn good thing to establish. By the sounds of it circulation is por when the oil is thick? Once it thins it's able to circulate? If you need an expert shoot down the M4 to Bristol and see jimmer at powerzed.

Just use these mate. http://www.zcentre.co.uk/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.pbv.tpl&product_id=20&category_id=2&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=7 It looks like you still have to use the hard line but at the caliper but just get them made locally. I had a pair or hard lines made for my old car like this and it cost pounds, really not expensive. Just found a local hydraulics shop.

Sounds like the brakes work fine. What tyres gave you got?

Cheers for that. It's your car at the end of the day. I don't think the drift works stuff is A1 but it's alright for the price IMO. I personally don't have any issue using it and it's popular track proven stuff. The SPL stuff is nice but silly money.

I used the drift works ones, they replace everything g back to the hard line on the car. Downside is tough that they don't have the rubber retaining gromits.

Use a thermometer to test the water temperature, should be in the FSM. See what Brian said for bleeding the system. Any air pockets can cause all sorts of silliness and potential damage. With the rad being lower than the heads and matrix you just can't get it out properly with the car level let alone nose down. There is a way to do it with a compressor and some rag but I've never done it that way.

I think mine did this when I refitted the new block, I was lazy bleeding the rad and after the first fire the aux fan kept coming on and the fluid level kept dropping. Got a touch worried then remembered about the overheat function. I think a pocket of air formed and that caused the unusually high reading hence the fan. Properly bled this trait stopped. When you tested that stat did you test the water temp? If you just tested it with boiling water, there's a chance it's delayed ie opening too late.

25 minutes!! What you doing walking round the block between each one :lol: hopefully you've highlighted stuff in the process. Still confusing how you managed to fuel foul the plugs and have low/no fuel pressure lol.

I hope you didn't think I was having a pop lee. I just didn't want to watch you go round and round. I'm glad you've sorted it though.

I Spose that might work. As a see what happens for ten minutes. I had some spare bungs so just stuck them on where the baileys were. I didn't make much noise at all. Maybe with more boost...dunno. As I say the baileys sound more fun.

Deleted the bailey dump valves. I was hoping I'd get a good rattle snake sound :yawn::no: a slight flutter, sounds rather boring. Back to the baileys it is.

Great news mate. I'm going to have to come skav a ride in it once it's all set. Bet your lads as excited as you :lol:

Just stumbled on this. So in hindsight you saved nothing buying a pair of 2560s here as apposed to buying the gt600 kit state side. Been thinking about buying them this way myself as TT is just down the road and I'd make all the hardware myself, so no fitting kit costs as such.

What in particular didn't you like about the rose joints? They just look like rose joints to me and are more substantial than the little hicas arms are stock.

That clicking is coming from the pedal assembly area or the gearbox area?

Another year older hey? What's one more :lol: happy birthday Russ.

I wouldn't buy the frame without the diff, simply because most people selling them will want to sell the whole thing as it's more profitable. I think €200 without the diff seems steep to.

You would yeah but because you short it out it thinks it's in gear, so advances the timing. Once the neutral switch is activated the timing will drop to 15btdc.

That's prob because it's converted and the neutral switch isn't functional. Conzult tells you what the timing should be rather than what it is from memory.

Just remember doing this will mean you need to sort the speedo as the ratios are different. From memory you will save about 15-20kg and gain acceleration. What you will undoubtably loose however is traction esp in lower gears and top end but the top end thing is a red herring, very very very rarely would it ever be used.

Do you still need those with the poly mounts? I have solids and it does away with those. Stuff like that is often a bit of a pain to line up, if you've ever refitted a gearbox mount you will know what I mean. Good luck reinstalling it, it's great fun.

The plug with a loop of wire on it's own? That's a fuse, it lives in that little box up by the brake master. I believe it's labeled engine constant or the like. You can't miss it it's one of a kind, first time I saw it it thought it was some Heath Robison production. The starter inhibitor buisness. If you haven't shorted the relay out then you are indeed going to struggle to start the car. Pop off the drivers wheel and arch lining, on the left there is a blue block this is the starter relay. Looks like this; http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_info.php?products_id=3021 You need to short this. I think theres a few ways of doing it but I essentially just cut the two cables going to it and joined them together. Probably best to have the battery out for this. The relay is then not part of the equation. Have you done the other wiring? Reverse lights etc on the loom by the pas pot and the neutral switch?