Stephen

Great news mate. I'm going to have to come skav a ride in it once it's all set. Bet your lads as excited as you :lol:

Just stumbled on this. So in hindsight you saved nothing buying a pair of 2560s here as apposed to buying the gt600 kit state side. Been thinking about buying them this way myself as TT is just down the road and I'd make all the hardware myself, so no fitting kit costs as such.

What in particular didn't you like about the rose joints? They just look like rose joints to me and are more substantial than the little hicas arms are stock.

That clicking is coming from the pedal assembly area or the gearbox area?

Another year older hey? What's one more :lol: happy birthday Russ.

I wouldn't buy the frame without the diff, simply because most people selling them will want to sell the whole thing as it's more profitable. I think €200 without the diff seems steep to.

You would yeah but because you short it out it thinks it's in gear, so advances the timing. Once the neutral switch is activated the timing will drop to 15btdc.

That's prob because it's converted and the neutral switch isn't functional. Conzult tells you what the timing should be rather than what it is from memory.

Just remember doing this will mean you need to sort the speedo as the ratios are different. From memory you will save about 15-20kg and gain acceleration. What you will undoubtably loose however is traction esp in lower gears and top end but the top end thing is a red herring, very very very rarely would it ever be used.

Do you still need those with the poly mounts? I have solids and it does away with those. Stuff like that is often a bit of a pain to line up, if you've ever refitted a gearbox mount you will know what I mean. Good luck reinstalling it, it's great fun.

The plug with a loop of wire on it's own? That's a fuse, it lives in that little box up by the brake master. I believe it's labeled engine constant or the like. You can't miss it it's one of a kind, first time I saw it it thought it was some Heath Robison production. The starter inhibitor buisness. If you haven't shorted the relay out then you are indeed going to struggle to start the car. Pop off the drivers wheel and arch lining, on the left there is a blue block this is the starter relay. Looks like this; http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_info.php?products_id=3021 You need to short this. I think theres a few ways of doing it but I essentially just cut the two cables going to it and joined them together. Probably best to have the battery out for this. The relay is then not part of the equation. Have you done the other wiring? Reverse lights etc on the loom by the pas pot and the neutral switch?

It's not just the zed, it is however noticeable here because A your an enthusiast and B this car was one of the worst offenders. Lots of things have changed though. Notice the lack of the abundant Saxo/corsa/nova with a fibreglass fighter jet attached, every third 17/18 year old had one ten years ago. The kids just don't do it anymore, when you do see some crazy flip paint, ripspeed victim with a dogs dick hanging out the back the owner is usually old enough to know better. Those shot boxes despite looking cheap, as we all know weren't. How will you afford to do that in a credit crunch 0 hours job at mcDs, you won't. The hunger from them fed by films and media has changed too, no more max power and even F&F has got subtler. The VW clean a simple euro look has conquered. Not to mention how much nicer are the equilvent euro boxes kids drive these days? In short those TVs with the lump on the back were cool once, they still work now but most kids would ask what that lumps for and why the TVs not flat grandad.

That's quite the business photo! That car is a nutter.

Sounds like the lifters are sticky. As long as you have oil and good oil pressure I would suggest you give it a good run and some fresh oil if it's not been done for a while.

I've eyed the job up a few times. I didn't think it looked that bad. I'm guessing you undid the four bolts that bolt the turbo rob the manifold rather than removing the manifold?

Good lad. How was that?

Yup that's how it should be, you have to push it fully up till it clicks. Otherwise it's like a drill, you let go and it switches off.

What a pain in the ass. Mines got a few of those, there in again mine wasn't resprayed in the last six months. I believe Hoover said he has the same issue.

I have a strong feeling you can't interchange the two. The TTs have a booster and that changes things. Just incase you weren't aware there are two bleed nipples on the clutch from factory, one on the slave and one near the headlight. It's a notorious pain in the ass to bleed. Rebuild kits are available for TT clutch masters which is what I did with success, so that's worth a shot. Have you had your clutch replaced now?

My wheels look tiny! All sunken and small.

Good shout on the metal reaction issue there Andrew. You would probably get away with stainless as well if it's a good quality with a high chromium content, ie 316.

It's just a bolt as it is isn't it? My japspeed one is an Ali bolt.

What thread is the sender? Surely using a hex nut that size with an appropriate O ring would solve your problem.

Without being rude bud, I think you might have a few issues by the sounds of it rather than one core fault. You can either work methodically and use the right tools or you will have to bite the bullet and pay some one who has the knowledge and tools. Otherwise your just going to keep chasing your tail.

That's a great pic Joel. The crazy thing is there was a whole other row of zeds you can't see there. In total we had around 50 cars. I say around because I counted them up then more appeared.