Stephen

Most people wipe it on, let it dry then wipe it off. Failing completely to polish anything.

Poorboys stuff is very good and reasonably priced. No fancy labels etc but the products are great. Actually learning how to apply polish makes a big difference.

I know it's partly the illusion of hindsight, however as soon as that plane got about half way round I was worrying about it making a full loop. The loop just didn't seem tight enough for altitude. Apparently he was a very experienced pilot, I'm sure he knew what he was doing. It just doesn't look right from the out though does it. It's not far from my office this, tragic accident. I think two years ago now, maybe longer. One of the ted arrows crashed and died at the Bournemouth air festival which was held this weekend as well.

Took her for a half hour spin. Dropped 1 cylinder, happened twice. If I hit the limiter the injector connection is lost. New connector required then. May as well replace all 6.

Unless you mean you disconnected them and instead of infinite boost you got 12psi?

If they are stock waste gates they open at 7 psi mate, tricked to 9 by the factory boost jets. If they don't open till 12 either there's further restrictions in circuit like boost jets or there not stock.

I've got a catch tank now, just struggling to find it a home. I'm tempted to relocate the battery, so it can go there and free up some more space. Not keen on jamming something else into the nose and the only other places are behind the front wheel or down where the aircon compressor used to be, neither of which are particularly serviceable. I want to be able to quick check, not remove or jack up to see it.

You think the exhaust gasses are forcing the gate open? Surely if that was the case it would point to a worn wastegate actuator. It takes a fair amount of force to open one manually. You would assume that if this is the case the actuator would open early as well. It would sound like they are plumbed up without the restrictor. So if you applied air pressure to the line it will open at 7psi, if it's healthy. What leads you to that conclusion?

Yeah, I wanted to get the handling and the stopping sorted first, plus any rot. Still some rot to repair this winter. I did look at the lower arms however if run out of budget, wanted it working and couldn't really decided why I needed them... Wideband, oil temp and an accusump are on my list atm.

:wink: pretty much lol. So far; Rebuilt the entire suspension system with poly bushes and solid mounts. Adjustable arms, It's only the lower arms now that are stock. Full deleted engine bay, no air con, PCV, Aiv , water bypass etc etc. Upgraded oil cooler and radiator. 2.5 exhaust from the turbo elbow back, divorced down pipes, Decats. Evo brembo upgrade, stainless braided lines and all vented drilled and slotted discs. Just waiting now to get a few miles on the block, only installed it a few months back, done about 100 miles. Then I'm going to test it, if it's good I've already discussed a chip and MBC with Noel. I've got more stuff in the pipeline, but I change my mind constantly about the particular path to take.

Yeah 0.5 bar is roughly 7psi ie, natural wastegate pressure aka safety boost. Sounds like the ebc is routed without restructors t the waste gates. Can't help on placement I'm afraid as I've not got an ebc so haven't learnt how to fit them. Your cars mapped for 14psi isn't it? If it's in safety boost it is going to feel slow.

Find yourself a good quality, by this I mean a cheap heavy piece of crap from wilkinsons or the like. When you see him eyeing up your tools, launch it at him...exclaim "you want my tools il €$¥%ing give you a tool you pikey piece of ^*+%." :taz: If that fails, cut his hands off...perfectly reasonable behaviour. On second thoughts with your calves, stamp on his hands :lol:

The PCV is bidirectional. The two hoses on the intake cams route to the accordion pipes, ie pre turbo. The circuit is reversed when you come on and off boost. Ie what your experiencing is normal, and is the reason why you should only apply 5psi as you "can" can... Pop seals, like cam seals by applying too much pressure from behind. Pressurise the system the 5psi, then listen to hoses for hissing. If you cannot locate a pesky one, get some soapy water and a brush. Gently apply it so it doesn't bubble on application. You will soon get a bubble show on the leak. Is everything routed correctly?

Sounds like a roller bearing turbo? Gt2554r maybe, z1 calls them gt535r. Was bouncing questions/ideas off you more than anything else. What you spend your money on helps me to see what's worth me spending mine on haha. Not enough tuned cars over here.

I wonder which would net better gains per buck. 2.5" intercooler piping and dual maf or water injection? Your still on the stock intercooler piping right? Also how they would affect the power curve, an extra 50hp that arrives in the last 2-300rpm of the Rev band is next to useless, where as 40hp gained at 3krpm or lower would be more useable. Equally, I think it's a wise move to think from a safety aspect. Meth injection cools charge temps and allows more timing and boost in lamens terms, yeah? So if a pump failed or you ran/leaned out of fluid the damage could be pretty severe? A bit like pushing the envelope on old injectors and connections. There isn't much to fail with increased induction cooling, a hose could pop off but that's true in stock configuration. I'm no expert but I'm just supposing if you were to weigh up the pros and cons between the two, roughly similar money. Which would give you more useable and sensible power enhancement. Did you say you've got gt525s? Ie a T28 core with machined T25 cores? Aren't they known for heating up charge temps as they are excessively restricted by the small housings made to fit a larger core? I might be talking rubbish here but if your talking about improving the setup you have maybe other options could/would have benefited you greater? It's interesting stuff regardless.

"Finish the z" that's hilarious:lol:

Its probably easier to ask what he isn't doing atm.

Doh. Marker pen time, write the cylinder number on the connector save that mistake again. Can't help on the idle surge though. Other than check the obvious. Boost leaks, base idle and tps settings. What is it alternating between on idle, sounds quite high.

Alternatively, you can pull the coil. Pop a plug in and see if it sparks....slightly more dangerous and ghetto plan.

What you need is a noid light, or you can hook up a cheap HT lead sensor getting it to fit can be a pita though. You sure it's the spark that's missing and not the injection side of it? Again you test the injector harness with a noid. The injectors are constantly live but putting a meter across the terminals won't give you a reading as its a switched earth from the ecu. So you can test by taking the battery neg and see if you get 12v from one side of the connector. Personally I'd ohm the injectors and coil packs, then make sure the connections are clean including the ptu ones and cas. Mine played a similar game, dirty ptu connection.

What intercoolers you got?

6 years!!! Are you removing one bolt a month? :lol:

Il be in this club in a few months time.

That's good. I was quoted about 3 times that to do mine when I asked a few months back.

Shit that's lighter.