Stephen

I wonder which would net better gains per buck. 2.5" intercooler piping and dual maf or water injection? Your still on the stock intercooler piping right? Also how they would affect the power curve, an extra 50hp that arrives in the last 2-300rpm of the Rev band is next to useless, where as 40hp gained at 3krpm or lower would be more useable. Equally, I think it's a wise move to think from a safety aspect. Meth injection cools charge temps and allows more timing and boost in lamens terms, yeah? So if a pump failed or you ran/leaned out of fluid the damage could be pretty severe? A bit like pushing the envelope on old injectors and connections. There isn't much to fail with increased induction cooling, a hose could pop off but that's true in stock configuration. I'm no expert but I'm just supposing if you were to weigh up the pros and cons between the two, roughly similar money. Which would give you more useable and sensible power enhancement. Did you say you've got gt525s? Ie a T28 core with machined T25 cores? Aren't they known for heating up charge temps as they are excessively restricted by the small housings made to fit a larger core? I might be talking rubbish here but if your talking about improving the setup you have maybe other options could/would have benefited you greater? It's interesting stuff regardless.

"Finish the z" that's hilarious:lol:

Its probably easier to ask what he isn't doing atm.

Doh. Marker pen time, write the cylinder number on the connector save that mistake again. Can't help on the idle surge though. Other than check the obvious. Boost leaks, base idle and tps settings. What is it alternating between on idle, sounds quite high.

Alternatively, you can pull the coil. Pop a plug in and see if it sparks....slightly more dangerous and ghetto plan.

What you need is a noid light, or you can hook up a cheap HT lead sensor getting it to fit can be a pita though. You sure it's the spark that's missing and not the injection side of it? Again you test the injector harness with a noid. The injectors are constantly live but putting a meter across the terminals won't give you a reading as its a switched earth from the ecu. So you can test by taking the battery neg and see if you get 12v from one side of the connector. Personally I'd ohm the injectors and coil packs, then make sure the connections are clean including the ptu ones and cas. Mine played a similar game, dirty ptu connection.

What intercoolers you got?

6 years!!! Are you removing one bolt a month? :lol:

Il be in this club in a few months time.

That's good. I was quoted about 3 times that to do mine when I asked a few months back.

Shit that's lighter.

That's per injector Joel, no?

You could try some Wynns sticky lifter treatment. It's not guaranteed to work and simply cleans out the lifters a touch but it's a relatively cheap and very simple thing to try. If it doesn't work, it cost you a few quid, if it does, it does. On the shelf at most motorist shops including Halfords.

Makes a difference that. I'm going to utilise some Nissan logos on mine, to match the rear and have a more subtle look.

Is that a heat tolerant paint?

Silly price those dust caps. I replaced the nipples with SS ones but the caps were fortunately in great condition.

Better to be safe than sorry mate. My belt looked fine, the engine had had a recent belt change. The tensioner pulley however was DEAD seal failed, grease leaked, noisey dry bearing.

That was my memory too, z33 rears are a similar issue. I don't think any of them are much of an upgrade over stock anyway.

Follow the guide here from ash. http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/922678/The-6-Ps-Proper-Preparation-Prevents-Piss-Poor-Performancegt.html

This is the problem when you don't do many miles, the tyres will still rot, it's rubber. Without the thread depth reducing many people just assume the tyre is in good condition. This is an issue with part worns particularly. Thread depth is obvious but what else has happened, is the tyre 10 years old? Did it come into contact with a chemical when the donnor of that tyre probably crashed... That's not to say part worns are evil, merely to point out there's more to consider with a tyre than just it's brand and thread depth. It's great tyres have a production date, maybe a best before or use by date wouldn't be a stupid incorporation or would that lead to people running bald tyres declaring "there in date..." Equally I suppose it's difficult to say it will degrade at this rate, too many environmental factors maybe.

I assume you mean the accordion pipe, the hard plastic/rubber one that runs from down by the headlight to the turbo? Fairly sure Z1 sell silicone replacements. Have you tested it to see if it leaks? It's a pretty robust pipe compared to most of the rest. I'd check you need one first, it's more likely the hose clamp isn't secure enough.

Ah they wouldn't do that hear, they would loose the child tax credits. They would charge 50p to borrow their kid and claim it as another credit.

https://www.gov.uk/tinted-vehicle-window-rules

No it's not si, as said upto 30% the front screen must not be tinted though. A lot of cars cone with factory tinted sides.

I guess that's cos you can take your sunglasses off at night. Johnny bored cop would like pull you over for driving at night with your shades on. Esp if he can give you a friendly drivers awareness corse.