Stephen

Aren't there prices about that normally?

As Dougal says, connectors and compression and boost leak. Is also add it would be worth ohming the injectors, one may have failed open and be dumping fuel in. The fact it's habits belt done ten years ago is reason to change it imo. They can deteriorate quite well unnoticed. The head gasket replacement rings bells to, why was it done? They arnt prone to it, unless they oveheat. They are prone to warping when the head though in that scenario.

Cheers for that Noel. Kinda high lights what I saying, they work. It's not really like comparing engine management to carbs because engine management is far superior. Carbs are a a bit hit and miss. Yes with an MBC you have less controllability but unless you know exactly what to do with it its a bit gimmicky really. I'm not attempting to say that manuals better, not at all. Just that when it costs 10xs more for an item, is the cost benefit ratio there? They both do the same job which is to control boost.

Hope to see it around.

Exactly, just wondering what's the basis of the choice either way. How many of us actually touch the thing once it's set up. Bit like electric seats, you set it up, you leave it alone...

Any reason why you want an EBC over an MBC?

Your asking a lot there. If you want quality items then Chinese is out the question. If you want 4 bolt, ie to use with the downpours you have your restricted. As off the shelf kits your pretty much restricting yourself to JWT sport 500s or Z1 GT525. You could have a hybrid made using the stock housing that's different but off the shelf it's those pre existing kits. Once you exchange for a five bolt down pipe the options are much better. To get 500+ out of those 4 bolt tubs though is a tall order, that will require significant supporting mods. Think, twin intake, 2.5" inter cooler piping etc etc and a custom tune...

Well done. Good luck wit the new churbos. Out of interest what was causing the low compression?

You doughnut:lol: why on earth did you do that?!

Oh yeah, the way new cars stop is incredible. Even the cheap ones, my mrs Kia pulls your face off. However I don't think it stops any better, it's just a sharper application. Obviously stuff like your Peugeot new golfs etc pull up about 30% better than the zed. Best in mind though that the Ferrari testarossa, in its time was an incredible super car, the 1988 model didn't even have abs! With a far lower price tag a year later you could but a Z32 that had abs brakes and was only 0.3 seconds slower to 60... You ever driven a non servo assisted car? Old car brakes are naff :lol:

It's worth pointing out, the stock brakes a pretty over critised. A healthy car should pull up in 130ft from 60, compare this to a modern focus 170ft at 70mph, not so shabby for a 25 year old car. The limiting factor isn't the brakes themselves but the grip available to them to transfer braking into stopping without locking up. If your stock brakes are pants, it's because they need a refurb... The issue comes when you want to stop from higher speeds especially when it's repeatedly. A few hard braking sessions from 140mph and they will be cooked. Brake fade hits hard and you will have mush to stop with this, it's an almost foregone conclusion sooner or later. The question is, do you want a car that stops in a safe manner at road legal speeds or do you need a set of brakes that will stop you from double road speeds repeatedly. The skyline brembos won't be enough for the later if it's serious work. So it depends on what you expect and require to pick the right brakes.

Not unusual. It's just not worth the risk, the whole lot back there besides the heater core hoses can be replaced with off the shelf coolant hose brought by the meter so cheap. If you haven't before I'd pull the plenum and do do some preventative maintenance and delete the crap as you go. Bit involved if your not zed savy but well worth the effort. It's worth noting the hardline at the back there suffer from corrosion too.

I'm guessing your still using the original coolant hoses? It's really worth while changing them all. Round the back and under the plenum are some very pesky hoses that get hot and brittle and cause grief.

The discs are a straight fit, you will however require the calipers too, or alternatively but not as good is a bracket to use the stock calipers with the 350 discs. The 350 calipers are a more or less straight swap, you need to enlarge the bolt holes but that's it. The rears are a faff and not really worth the headache of fitting them.

Lol, finding that 5 seconds each day is very stressful il have you know!

I couldn't commit myself to this either. I've been slightly slacker than I would have like this years with REO duties without further NEO works. Unfortunately work is getting steadily busier and with family planning hopes its just something couldn't attend to properly.

I really like the stock wheel, the simplicity of it pleases me. Ok it looks a bit old hat in comparison to a modern car wheel but then I don't like the bulky nature of most wheels. It looks correct and period, because it is.

Well done mate. If I'm correct that's not its first nomination either but it is its first award? It's a very clean car, maybe you will be more tempted to keep it now lol.

I live in cider :lol:

To my mind the north which begins with the midlands, starts at the m4. But then that's my southern mind, as the crow flies 5 miles more South and il be very wet!

This might be worth a read mate if you've not done it before; http://www.thumper300zx.com/z32/boostleaks/boost_leak_guide.htm I appreciate what your saying Jeff and as I said 99/100 it's likely fine. However when the manual says to do it a set way and many of the best minds in the business agree why take the risk? You wouldn't just make up a bolt torque so why make up a test level? I bow to your experience and if you or others feel comfortable doing it that way, that's fine but il keep following the advice laid out by the FSM and several big names in the zed game, certainly I wouldn't recommend to deliberately not follow those intrusions. I'm sure you can understand this.

No the 77/78 is my favourite bri, I do like the later one though. I also like the earlier ones, aside from one blip, 74 -76 I think it is the square head lights phase that followed the bull nose cars, which look great. In fact I love firebirds/trans ams & camaros. I very nearly brought a gen 3 a few years back and often start looking at them when I'm pissed off with the zed.

I'm sure you would get away with it 99/100 or even higher but I wouldn't want to strip the front end off the engine for a cam seal, or removing the gearbox and flywheel blah blah for the crank seal. Not worth the risk imo.

Your definitely not in the southwest, or even the south really. I would class Luton as up North personally but I suppose in reality it's South East Midlands? It's out of the M25 so it's not really London.

You should, should stick to 5 psi. As you say though leaks do appear higher at times which is frustrating. The trouble is if you start putting much more than 5psi though it your going to risk popping oil seals out, apparently the cam seals are a favourite for this. This because the crank case becomes pressurised in the process with the stock PCV system. You might get people tell you you can put loads more through the system and they test it at 15psi, that's fine and they are welcome to carry on, if and when it goes wrong they will stop doing it. The 5psi is recommended by the FSM and its that for a reason.