Stephen

I wouldn't want to clean it.

That is super smooth and quite a dedicated long process to get that result. If I was you I'd start with the AIV, Carbon canister and PRV. That will remove a large chunk of crap that sits up by the battery and BMC, removing this stuff alone makes life a lot less complex. If your feel capable I'd remove the plenum and do the coolant bypass and EGR. While your back there is replace the hoses from the turbo coolant lines, check the hard tree or delete it as well. That assembly gets neglected and fails and leaks. All good future proofing. I have quite a few deletes on mine but it's a case of function rather than the look. For that reason Ive retained the factory firebox location and PS resivoir. They are easily serviceable here, just by lifting the bonnet. My battery may end up in the boot but for the access it grants the two minutes to remove it, which should happen when your working on the car anyway it's not much help.

I heard a rumour that the car was purchased for £36k a few years back...

Yeah come on how did you cock it up?

So the most famous car of the Francise that was driven by a now dead actor sold for 120k, a 350 which is a cheaper car to begin with and far more common, as shown in one film by a supporting actor is commanding more money...dream on.

From memory, a lot. You realise the zed isn't very big when it's sat next to a TA and they aren't particularly big muscle cars. What's most imposing is the bonnet night. I'm not the tallest admittedly but that body Pontiac the front of the bonnet is virtually level with my hip!

A bag of Haribo tangfastics and 7/16ths of a Kitkat chunky?

What you could do, get some blue tack and build up little blocks round the arch about 10mm. Take it for a low speed spin, go too fast and they will just Pop off anyway. The tyre makes contact with the blue tack it will pop off. That way you will know if at any point the tyre moved within that distance of the arch.

Just enjoy it as Joel said. You can check your clearance between the arch and wheel face with your finger at present I recon. Just make sure to do it when the car is on the floor so there is a true reflection of the distance. Those fibreglass wings do have a fair lip on the back. Do you still have hicas? Obviously the wheel will move in the wheel well as well.

It's to do with pressure balance. Your old exhaust may have been applying enough back pressure for the proper route, is through the drains, to work effectively. Now you've relieved that pressure the easiest place to go is the exhaust. Try driving around the air con on, that increase in revs and load can be just enough to stop the leak. Is what I described what your getting? Out of interest have you preformed a compression test? If compression is poor the crank case gases may be too high and cause the same issue.

Classic symptom of turbo rear seal failure is grey, not blue, smoke at idle. Particularly prolonged idle on a hot engine, when the oils thin. I assuming your assumption is this. Thing is there isn't a rear seal, not as such, it's closer to a piston ring or splash guard. It's job is to stop exhaust gases going into the turbo not to stop oil pouring out. The drain in the turbo should be sufficient to allow it out at a rate that've doesn't get high enough for this. Often the turbo gets blamed and no ones checked what there crank case pressure is, wether the turbo drains are clear etc etc. Even your PCV not working properly could cause it.

I think your right there. R32 GTR vspec, R33 GTR, R34GTR are all the same 320mm disc with a 4 pot brembo calipers, the Z33 calipers and discs are ever so slightly different from memory, I think it's a 5mm offset. R32 GTR just has 295mm discs that are virtually the same as a Z32. If he has brembos without apaters they will almost certainly be one of the above and are most likely to be R33 or Z33 combinations, as these are the most common source for the parts. Now if the OP would like to stop guessing after weeks and weeks some simple pictures and measurements would reveal what they are. It's highly unlikely that you will need replacement pots if they are brembo. The pits are made of some very robust material that doesn't suffer very easily. A brembo specialist that's rebuilt more more of these calipers than he's had hot dinners reckons he has only replaced a handful of them and it's usually down to user error, hand fisted home rebuild attempts.

That's alright then, it's always best to ask.

I would either speak to your neighbour about that camera or move its angle so it's not filming thier front door, if you haven't already. I'd be a bit pissy if my neighbour was recording images of my door step without my consent.

Those BMW v8s have been thrown in a fair few drift cars. To be honest you can fit pretty much any engine so long as it pshyically fits. Getting it to run properly is the hard bit.

Does this kinda stuff, by which i mean chavy kids in front wheel drive crapback doing flybys and burn outs not gain ace cafe lots of complaints and unwanted attention from the law? I know for sure if there was something like that near me there would be public up roar to get the place closed down.

Not sure, they look supportive though.

Have a little look at what else he has for sale....just saying. :lol:

Don't put LEDs in the tea lights mate, you will get hot spots, likens spot light effect. An filament bulb will give you a more diffuse light that illuminates the whole panel evenly.

Yessss, that's a pretty front end. That's formula though if I'm not mistaken with the big hood vents.

Awesome. Of that body that's my least favourite front end (sorry) but I am very, very jealous. I know you've been waiting for months so I'm pleased it's finally arrived.

What's that, 18psi Bri? It's a bit blurry. What happened to that engine in the end :lol: seems a touch high.

Ok so honesty always helps so I will divulge all information as I'm not a fibber. Started the car up this morning and it was running a touch lumpy, almost as if it was misfiring but not quite. Had a little play and one of the rear coil pack connections was loose, idle came up vac reading increased. I highly doubt it was running on five, I know what that feels like and sounds like very well. Anyways it was definitely a lot quicker than stock this morning. Maybe it was me being more aggressive with it in lower gears learning where the grip is but it was definitely better. I also managed to get a proper reading off the gauge which was 14psi spike to 13psi solid.

I thought it was one of those fancy gold teeth sheilds as worn by hood stars! We're getting old Barry

Is it just me or is the 14psi boost upgrade, not that much different? I've always run 9psi, today was my first run at 14psi. I have to say whilst it was noticeably faster it wasn't the night and day difference some report, I don't think I've gained 80hp or anything, my butt dyno says it running about 330-340 if that...