Stephen

It's kinda rare to end up talking cars at a car show like that. You may get a little chat here and there based around the little tweaks you do, the only time you end up discussing stuff like engine components is places like here. It's heavy conversation if there's no reason behind it. If you want to get conversations started you've gotta be different.

My two favourite cars, is that an 79 or an 80 trans am?

There are a few sr20 engined Zebs about. However you get more HP and torque stock from a VG30dett, chip and boost increase on a VG will see you over what most SR boys churn out with a much longer mod list. Infact it might surprise you but the VG makes more power than the RB mod for mod. Not to mention the RB suffers its own issues. To switch out the VG on a zed requires something thought out. We all know packing is a restraint and that's the main advantage of an RB engined zed. You either swap to something cheaper to extract power from like the RB of JZ blocks or you go out and fit something that provides gobs of power from the off in a naturally aprisrated form such as an LS motor. I'm all for swaps, but a swap is rarely easy or cheap, in fact normally the opposite. I'm not saying the VG is king of engines, there's definitely better, however you need a damn good reason to change it. Especially when your removing a motor than makes 300hp stock and has had people run over 700hp on stock internals.

I would have agreed with you when I first looked at them Jeff but I've been running them for a few years now without issue. They are a very simple non return valve and that function which is what matters works. The opening and closing of the PCV is far in a way controlled by engine vacuum/boost it would work without a spring full stop. Same as the non returns on the clutch and brake booster.

Check compression first and foremost mate. Also does your exhaust contain a H or X pipe? There is a documented set of cases where running two single lines causes smoke at idle. The school of though is that the frequency causes a sort of sucking or pumping effect on the rear seals of the turbo. I have a suggestion for you which I will PM as its a touch unorthodox.

It doesn't matter how exactly they spring. It's just a non return valve. It's function is to allow crankcase gasses to be scavenged and keep crank case pressure as low as possible whilst in negative boost or vacuum situations. It is then to close once positive pressure is applied to the manifold to stop boost or positive pressure being applied to the crank case and oil galleries. At that point the system is reversed with excessive pressure going out the intake cm cover vents. The issue is especially with turbo cars, excessive crank case pressure by which I mean not a lot, distrupts the ability to drain oil efficiency allowing oil to pass into the exhaust and causing smoke, more technically steam as the oil evaporates. If you have excessive crank case pressure you will most certainly suffer from smoke esp with a free flowing exhaust. So all they need to do is pass air from the hose joiner end to the threaded end and stop flow when the reverse is applied. Put it to your lips and blow check the functionality of it as a non return. If it fails permanently open or closed its duff. If, if the PCV is functioning correctly and you still have smoke it's not the PCV. Checking compression and the vacuum readings on the oil galleries throughout the Rev range should reveal the cause. Unless of course the turbo is what is at fault. What kind of smoke are you experiencing mate?

Has it not got a set down section in the exhaust?

Sounds like a great trip. Look forward to the pictures.

Crack on a fit it then. :phone:

They are pretty different, I think it's all about the fuel tank.

It's very much worth while removing all the guff, it's a lot less confusing and less cluttered. The the carbon canister is a bit annoying and hard to follow. The main thing is that you get the important stuff connected and create an air tight system. I actually went through and replaced ALL the remaining vac lines on mine.

Ah right. Also the one from them is potentially aluminium as well? The Ali ones weigh nothing in comparison. It's worth having a chat with Jimmer though, by the time you factor in the tax and delivery theres a good chance it will be cheaper through him.

That's a U.S. Spec car that's why. Probably left by service personnel.

Doh! Is there not enough left to heat then wind out with mole grips?

Why don't you just take a meter to earth test which is ground and which is live then run the live to the back and a short ground at the rear, bang done.

Is that including tax Dan?

I can't remember, I would of guessed 13mm from memory but obviously not? Il be home in a few hours, might be able to check for you.

They are not black they are gunmetal :yawn: and as you know that's fit to change. The eBay tails, are a point we shall have to agree to disagree, I like them. By spring there will be a lot more approval of my car haha.

Removing an aftermarket down pipe is easy, it's rusted solid stock ones that cause problems. Starter motor off, 3/8" ratchet and a UJ and a ring spanner for the bottom ones it will be off quicker than it took to get the car off the floor.

Drivers side exhaust manifold yeah?

Save your pennies take a zedbatitical mate, bin that pesky bloody auto box and go manual you really won't regret it.

Get that exhaust leak fixed mate. Regardless if it's THE fault, it's A fault that needs to be rectified. If it fixes this all the better, it certainly isn't making things better.

I actually think the 99 spec spoiler is the worst one out the three. :pinch:

Good stuff. Oh well just goes to show, it's ****ed can go **** itself :lol:

I couldn't hear much either. If you keep hitting 20psi in second gear outside a school though your gonna get pinched.