Stephen

That's per injector Joel, no?

You could try some Wynns sticky lifter treatment. It's not guaranteed to work and simply cleans out the lifters a touch but it's a relatively cheap and very simple thing to try. If it doesn't work, it cost you a few quid, if it does, it does. On the shelf at most motorist shops including Halfords.

Makes a difference that. I'm going to utilise some Nissan logos on mine, to match the rear and have a more subtle look.

Is that a heat tolerant paint?

Silly price those dust caps. I replaced the nipples with SS ones but the caps were fortunately in great condition.

Better to be safe than sorry mate. My belt looked fine, the engine had had a recent belt change. The tensioner pulley however was DEAD seal failed, grease leaked, noisey dry bearing.

That was my memory too, z33 rears are a similar issue. I don't think any of them are much of an upgrade over stock anyway.

Follow the guide here from ash. http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/922678/The-6-Ps-Proper-Preparation-Prevents-Piss-Poor-Performancegt.html

This is the problem when you don't do many miles, the tyres will still rot, it's rubber. Without the thread depth reducing many people just assume the tyre is in good condition. This is an issue with part worns particularly. Thread depth is obvious but what else has happened, is the tyre 10 years old? Did it come into contact with a chemical when the donnor of that tyre probably crashed... That's not to say part worns are evil, merely to point out there's more to consider with a tyre than just it's brand and thread depth. It's great tyres have a production date, maybe a best before or use by date wouldn't be a stupid incorporation or would that lead to people running bald tyres declaring "there in date..." Equally I suppose it's difficult to say it will degrade at this rate, too many environmental factors maybe.

I assume you mean the accordion pipe, the hard plastic/rubber one that runs from down by the headlight to the turbo? Fairly sure Z1 sell silicone replacements. Have you tested it to see if it leaks? It's a pretty robust pipe compared to most of the rest. I'd check you need one first, it's more likely the hose clamp isn't secure enough.

Ah they wouldn't do that hear, they would loose the child tax credits. They would charge 50p to borrow their kid and claim it as another credit.

https://www.gov.uk/tinted-vehicle-window-rules

No it's not si, as said upto 30% the front screen must not be tinted though. A lot of cars cone with factory tinted sides.

I guess that's cos you can take your sunglasses off at night. Johnny bored cop would like pull you over for driving at night with your shades on. Esp if he can give you a friendly drivers awareness corse.

Building it, that's the simple bit. Fixing what happens after the human error effect is introduced is fun bit.

That's really sad. Way to young only a year older than me! Poor family.

You kid but people like that will sell a kidney when they need the cash. We've all seen them in cash converters selling the kids DVDs for 3p each.

You are of corse correct, I think the z31 suffers worse from it though. A pretty girl with a hangover is one thing, a minger who scrubs up, well you understand :lol:

It's not that no one likes the Z31 it's just that in the main there are tatty things, it's so rare to see a good one. There used to be a black swb one in zclub, the difference between 2+2s and 2+0s in the Z31 is FAR more noticeable. Sadly a swb z31 is really very rare here. Lowered on the right wheels they look great! Stock with bits of trim missing and shoddy paint they look er no thanks.

Ejsus Alna that post woz bda evn for. You? :lol: Good luck, sounds like there's a long road ahead of you.

What's the shell condition like? Does it need much work? Or is it a case of dunno yet?

Or a boost leak check?

That's a fair point bri although I suppose they are interlinked. Pressure and flow rate vs apature size.

Yeah it's about half the size if not smaller. I'm currently chucking 90psi at the turbo at times...great.

On the engine block is a 90 degree block, it's near the bell housing bolts level with the exhaust housing of the turbo. The drivers side turbo bolts a banjo to it, it should have K on it.