Stephen

Building it, that's the simple bit. Fixing what happens after the human error effect is introduced is fun bit.

That's really sad. Way to young only a year older than me! Poor family.

You kid but people like that will sell a kidney when they need the cash. We've all seen them in cash converters selling the kids DVDs for 3p each.

You are of corse correct, I think the z31 suffers worse from it though. A pretty girl with a hangover is one thing, a minger who scrubs up, well you understand :lol:

It's not that no one likes the Z31 it's just that in the main there are tatty things, it's so rare to see a good one. There used to be a black swb one in zclub, the difference between 2+2s and 2+0s in the Z31 is FAR more noticeable. Sadly a swb z31 is really very rare here. Lowered on the right wheels they look great! Stock with bits of trim missing and shoddy paint they look er no thanks.

Ejsus Alna that post woz bda evn for. You? :lol: Good luck, sounds like there's a long road ahead of you.

What's the shell condition like? Does it need much work? Or is it a case of dunno yet?

Or a boost leak check?

That's a fair point bri although I suppose they are interlinked. Pressure and flow rate vs apature size.

Yeah it's about half the size if not smaller. I'm currently chucking 90psi at the turbo at times...great.

On the engine block is a 90 degree block, it's near the bell housing bolts level with the exhaust housing of the turbo. The drivers side turbo bolts a banjo to it, it should have K on it.

Exactly than my mucker. I never removed the passenger side bolt, no need so I couldn't of "mixed them up" however it would appear at sone stage it's been done and only now have I noticed, as I've never had to check.

Thanks yeah I was just checking. I would appear I'm missing the bolt labeled K. Both are unstamped.

Can anyone please clarify. The stock turbos have oil restrictors in place. From what I understand the drivers side is restricted in the oil sender block and the passenger side is restricted by the bolt which is marked K. Is this correct??

Do you have proper engine oil pressure? The senders do fail but it's a damn good thing to establish. By the sounds of it circulation is por when the oil is thick? Once it thins it's able to circulate? If you need an expert shoot down the M4 to Bristol and see jimmer at powerzed.

Just use these mate. http://www.zcentre.co.uk/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.pbv.tpl&product_id=20&category_id=2&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=7 It looks like you still have to use the hard line but at the caliper but just get them made locally. I had a pair or hard lines made for my old car like this and it cost pounds, really not expensive. Just found a local hydraulics shop.

Sounds like the brakes work fine. What tyres gave you got?

Cheers for that. It's your car at the end of the day. I don't think the drift works stuff is A1 but it's alright for the price IMO. I personally don't have any issue using it and it's popular track proven stuff. The SPL stuff is nice but silly money.

I used the drift works ones, they replace everything g back to the hard line on the car. Downside is tough that they don't have the rubber retaining gromits.

Use a thermometer to test the water temperature, should be in the FSM. See what Brian said for bleeding the system. Any air pockets can cause all sorts of silliness and potential damage. With the rad being lower than the heads and matrix you just can't get it out properly with the car level let alone nose down. There is a way to do it with a compressor and some rag but I've never done it that way.

I think mine did this when I refitted the new block, I was lazy bleeding the rad and after the first fire the aux fan kept coming on and the fluid level kept dropping. Got a touch worried then remembered about the overheat function. I think a pocket of air formed and that caused the unusually high reading hence the fan. Properly bled this trait stopped. When you tested that stat did you test the water temp? If you just tested it with boiling water, there's a chance it's delayed ie opening too late.

25 minutes!! What you doing walking round the block between each one :lol: hopefully you've highlighted stuff in the process. Still confusing how you managed to fuel foul the plugs and have low/no fuel pressure lol.

I hope you didn't think I was having a pop lee. I just didn't want to watch you go round and round. I'm glad you've sorted it though.

I Spose that might work. As a see what happens for ten minutes. I had some spare bungs so just stuck them on where the baileys were. I didn't make much noise at all. Maybe with more boost...dunno. As I say the baileys sound more fun.

Deleted the bailey dump valves. I was hoping I'd get a good rattle snake sound :yawn::no: a slight flutter, sounds rather boring. Back to the baileys it is.