Stephen

€3400! Ouch. Is that a regular car policy? My classic cover is significantly less than 10xs less then that!

Pressure sender is next to the filter tree on LHD cars, so that's it entails where the mix up came about. On a RHD car it's on the passenger side behind the aircon compressor. You will see it hanging down, by the engine mount. You will need a 17mm spanner. Pull the gaiter back then unclip the connection. The sender then screws out. There's a nut shape at the top to allow you to undo it. You may find it quite tight as a small quantity of RTV is used to seal the thread.

I'd get them checked out. They always say if you've got a lump you should check it out...haha. Nice looking car though. How does it drive?

Yup all back up and running. Well 99%, it's road worthy. Some niggles to sort, oil pressure gauge is faulty, brakes need bleeding again and the alignment is crap.

You will be fine. I need mine setup properly. It's just done by eye atm. Everything is still setting in so I'm not worried about it too much just yet.

No the calliper body is fixed. The pistons move within that frame. It all stays the same. You will find that your alignment goes to hell when you lower it though. Who's doing the work?

That won't cause clearance issues anyway then. You can worry about it later. If you don't have a long enough thread the lack of engagement would/could be very dangerous.

I'd be surprised if you didn't. What brakes you getting?

Exactly that. It's ideal for those who only drive the car during the better weather. It used to annoy me the hassel of taxing a car again in July for that last month or two of good weather. Much easier.

Worth a try lol

If you decide not to fit it, we can talk :D

Is that a genuine urethane 99 that you have?

I recon that only suits a 89 front. Tbh though it's just sheet metal. Get some card and mock it up then cut it out of some 1mm Ali sheet.

You will find it on the chassis tag under the bonnet mate. It will say colour/trim then a three didgit code which will likely be KH2. That is assuming it's not been resprayed. - - - Updated - - - Beaten by seconds.

I swear if you forget to turn the headlights off, once the ignition is off it reverts to side lights only.

This might interest you dan. Even if just to copy the format. http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/321349594541?_mwBanner=1

Sounds like rear turbo oil seal failure to me. Try engauging your aircon and see if it still smokes, this sometimes keeps idle high enough to to hide the symptom. Text book symptoms for turbo rear seal failure is grey smoke at prolonged idle once the engine is warm. Before you get too caried away I'd check the oil level, too high and it can prevent proper flow from the turbos, so it backs up and comes out the seal. I know you say you can't see it in the elbow but I doesn't take much to make a mess. The oil isn't being combusted hence why it's not that heavy blue colour. It's merely evaporating out the turbine housing. What are your vac numbers reading at idle? Have you preformed a compression test? I ask this as excessive blow by can also cause the oil to not glow out the turbo correctly. It's a bit embarrassing isn't it. When mine started that a lady started shouting at me saying my car was on fire...

Seeings as there was no answer and I managed to find one. I thought I'd share the answer. http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi FSM shows to disconnect the OEM sender and screw in a gauge on a 1/8" bspt thread and check the readings against those specified.

I've got a picture from what they are upto.... :P

160 was probably six months tax. It's been 220ish the whole time I've owned mine.

It's worth pointing out that bench grinders can also be bloody lethal if not respected.

Does it get better with pumping? The booster failing would cause it to be too heavy, not too soft. Check operation with the engine on and off. Did you say you had a one piece clutch line? If not, invest in one. They can be a pig. Check behind the dash for fluid, often if the master has failed it leaks into the cabin.

Distance from the gear knob to the centre consol. The plastic horizontal under the stero is 110mm.

I would like to take a mechanical oil pressure reading from the car. The unreliable stock gauge is being, well, unreliable. Oil pressure is indicated as just a shade off naff all. The connection was damaged during engine removal so although I've got a spare functional pressure gauge I thought if there's an appropriate location then a mechanical test would give a quick and reliable yes or no answer. Ideas? I know there's a blank on the oil tree...

Baz I dislike you more and more as you get more good stuff. I know you've been after the American for a while. I'm not going to this show...I wasn't invited....