Stephen

All sorted. Need to test it properly Ms see what she's pushing out psi wise but it makes more than 9 now.

Those connections look like AiV and EGR.

Interesting as since my brake upgrade I haven't been able to get my brakes feeling hard, they are continually soft a few pumps changes it for that brake then soft again. I've bled them as per the manual. Whilst it's got better it's still not right. The car also pulls to the left under hard braking. The calipers aren't seized. I think I just need to bleed them again.

What are the symptoms of a failing BMC Jeff?

Pictures now!

It all makes perfect sense now. Now I think about it I don't know why I didnt realise it before. But silly really but hey, hopefully it will help others from doing it.

Yeah that's exactly what I've done mate. Just looking forward to enjoying the boost now.

Fitted the mbc today. Haven't had chance to test it though. Odd thing about it, it's got a pin hole in the side. It says in the instructions; "Please note: the small hole on the back of the T section is essential in order for the wastegate actuator to depressurise after activation-only a negligible loss to flow occurs prior to waste gate actuator activation." That sound odd to anyone?

Hi there and welcome. Il try to answer your questions as honestly as possible. The biggest issue with them is age. At 25 years old in some cases tin worm has had its way, particularly the targa equipped ones(the vast majority) as the drain for this comes through the sill. The rear quarter is the most common site of rust. Lack of maintenance and bodging are an issue as well. Most mechanical issues are age/abuse related. Prices have risen in recent years. Whilst there are bargains out there I'd aim to pay at least 3.5k for a half decent car and closer to five for a very well looked after clean model. What was available for 1k a few years back is now about 2k, be careful of cars in this price bracket. Unless you know why it's for sale so cheap then walk away. Repairs can be costly. There are a few parts suppliers and breakers around, you will find those on eBay and through the club mainly. Google will reveal that the U.S. Is the majour supplier for parts. Traders can be found in the traders section of the forum including MJP for parts and Powerzed for service, mechanical etc. Both are extremely helpful and friendly. The standard diff is indeed a viscous LSD, R230 in the twin turbo and the widely used R200 in the non turbo. I have seen a sequential shifter mod for the autobox but I can't comment on its ability. My choice esp with your intentions would be a manual box. The autobox is a nice drive, with age not on its side and an earned reputation for not being as strong as the manual box, reliability under stress isn't as good as it could be. Also who wants to drift an auto? Daily driving wise. Parts aren't common, it's an older and more complex vehicle so the stress of it must be fixed by money for work can get a little tiresome. Non turbo cars make a better daily imo due to there less stressed and simpler history. There are a few guys on here that use them daily but I wouldn't want to do it myself (again). They are already appreciating, around 5% annually over the last few years I'd say. However I wouldn't buy one as an investment yet, prices are simply returning to what they should have been for a car of calibre pre financial crash. If your serious about one and one to make a daily/drifter out of it there's plenty of homework to do. Is terms of drifting, the steering lock needs increasing. The four wheel steering known as hicas can make life annoying esp when worn. The VG engine suffers the same fate the RB does, oil starvation under extreme cornering, they don't however eat the oil pump slowly.

This link explains where I've gone wrong. You need the factory boost solenoids to use boost jets, without them they do nothing. http://www.thumper300zx.com/z32/factory_jets/factory_jets.htm

Very nice clean cars those, not fussy just smart.

Save up those pennies and go manual Russ you really won't regret it.

Yeah those arnt the Rays ones. Surely the wheel width is on the rear face of the wheel with the offset as well.

I think, think I've sussed it. I've now ordered an MBC anyway so hopefully the issue will be resolved.

Yeah, it's just a little seal in its own right. Be careful removing as you don't want to damage the aluminium seal face. I did mine when I did the manual conversion.

They don't leak under boost leak testing...that's all I can say for sure. There Bailey DV26 I think.

I thought I understood it but you've confused me now. So I need a Tee in the system? I cannot just run a single line? Why is this? I was under the impression the actuator is just a diaphragm controlled by the engines vacuum, when it sees 7psi the diaphragm is overwhelmed and opens the wastegate. I can't see how it needs more than just a vac/boost line to apply the manifold pressure :s

Yeah I just have a single line running from the throttle body pipe nipple to the actuator. Which contains the stock boost jet. The 1mm boost jets are fitted in this line. I think, think, that the silicone pipe I used has a larger ID and its leaking round it, I guess it wouldn't take much of a leak to cause the issue.

Are the wheels genuine ones? The look like old school enkeis. Get them powder coated silver and they will look lovely.

I've fitted a remapped ecu. So today I thought I'd try upping the boost, money's a little tight this month so as an experiment I got a pair of 1mm mig welding tips to see what the difference was. Expecting 14psi. Even from the first pull I thought this doesn't feel any different, looking at the gauge I saw the normal 9psi. What the hells that all about? I don't have the stock boost solenoids anymore so I can't even go into the 7psi safety boost. I did a boost leak check last weekend in preparation and there wasn't any noticeable leaks. Suggestions?

That's cars silver? Lol it also belongs to a member.

I'm 29, mines £350 a year with footman James on a classic policy. Limited to 5k miles. It was cheaper but there's a few mods on my car these days.

You could get a set of Godspeed turbos, get them balanced and see how it goes? Other than paying out you don't have many options I'm afraid. Even buying turbos to create a kit yourself can end up costing nearly the same as the kit...

Yes, kinda. You need to be careful and take your time but they are pretty simple inside. The bit you can't do is balance them, without balancing them they won't last 5 seconds. The other issue is MOST turbo companies will NOT balance a turbo core they haven't rebuilt. I do however know one that does if you do need that information. Also note that proper balancing is not the same as what's offered on eBay etc.

What's your budget mate? Those do indeed appear to be Chinese, some have had success but often the quality control isn't up to much. Also being what they are they will require more than just a fettle to fit. One will need clocking, with custom wastewater actuator bracketery and both will need modifying to allow you to fit the inlets. This at the very least. For that amount of hassle you may as well buy genuine garret units, they will still need faffing with though unless you buy a specific kit. Rebuilding the stock turbos isn't very difficult, it's also not excessively cheap to do properly and has a larger than margin of failure than most realise. There's a few options but budget will dictate heavily which way to go.