Stephen

Hope yours is silly stuff like mine. Need to adjust the handbrake too, way too much lift required atm.

Took it out for a spirited run. A shakedown of sorts. Got rid of the hicas light after the delete. Things that went wrong, yes there's a list; Battery terminal on positive side loose, even when done up. Caused me a second of panic when it popped off popping up the curb coming home. Boost line to the mbc popped off, secured with cable ties now. Rear passenger side toe rod keeps adjusting itself. Some thread lock required there. Car died after the battery thing and wouldn't restart till it cooled, series 1 ptu fault I think. On a positive note it was a fun drive.

I will get that sorted Pete. As you say some common sense is required and some curtosity. Tbh I'd rather be out on track with people from the club than everyone being strangers, even if it's just for feed back.

I used Terry's method today. Took all of about 2 minutes. Ive not test driven it yet but the lights out and the steering is good.

Cheers for that Pete, very useful. I think the only answer to those two questions is to be honest and say, I don't know. I've been told that fast on the road isn't particularly fast on the circuit, ie on track the pace is much higher. I'm a competent road driver, but I've never been on track. As far as the car goes, it's probably more competent than I am, since the work I did to it last winter I've haven't found "the line" again it seems to of pushed further north than I've been comfortable to push it on a public highway. I'm in no doubt the limiting factor will be me rather than the car at least at first.

Hellraiser.

Gaz' old black shorty was a K--- BOM as well. Apparently there was a particular importer that was using those plates. Real common import plate.

I can't see Q now. Type in japfest silver stone, will give you the sessions.

That's actually the brand I was thinking of. I've been very impressed with the Michellens on my daily, so I was thinking to try the pilot sports which many feel pretty positive about or Goodyear F1s. My other concern of running a track day tyre is too much grip and oil starvation. So maybe, at least for the time being what your saying would be the best compromise.

Pretty much yeah. My toy car comes pretty low down on the list of financial responsibilities, esp paying year 3 three of a mortgage down south. Would good quality road rubber be suitable for limited track use or would they simply be fried too fast.

Do I understand there's no novice sessions left? I've not been on track before, so not sure if I should sign up for an intermediate.

Whilst you guys are on tyres etc. I keep thinking about this. I can't afford to drop a four figure sum on wheels, then add quality rubber. I don't particularly want to run Chinese wheels on track. So I keep thinking id be better off with a set of 350 rays with road legal slicks than wide road tyres. Obviously that brings the rain issue though. Bit lost tbh.

I dub mine therefore, crimson tide.

It's a common way of thinking. Two replies and both have said the same. Maybe I'm so long in the tooth I don't realise how difficult it is. Tbh I Just class it as different, you need to throw the rule book out so to speak. This tank contained about 100 tetras and hatchet fish. The maintence was food and cleaning the filter, so I guess compared to that a marine tank is a pain. It was a joy that tank. This marine setup was pretty simple. Just feeding and algae cropping and 10% weekly water changes. Pretty simple really. Not even much equipment.

Honestly, from the outside my car looks pretty original, you'd cry if you knew how much what you can't see has cost me, time as well as money. It still needs more spent on it lol.

Yeah, there's a few different systems on there. The old house used to be like a public aquarium, in fact even the shed was full of fish amenities. I've downscalled a lot now and just have one reef tank, a quarantine system and a water production station.

They've been doing this for years, out of sight though. Some recent moving around and it's now sort of videoable. So I'd thought I'd show you my pair of breeding Tomato Clownfish. The male is the smaller fish, the female the larger. She lays the eggs and he is fertilising after her. Those with a sharp eye will see the females egg tube out. Apologies the qualities naff.

The two won't be connected. Safety boost is mostly triggered by code 34 dett sensor harness. It can be a faulty knock sensor or dodgy wiring like mine was. I believe it's also part of the temp sensor aray, to stop boosting till your up to temperature. The two may be signs of what's happened together though. I'd be wary though as a smoking car can be many things. It could be as simple as crap PCV valves or it could be ringlands. Low compression/excessive blow by will cause turbo smoke esp if the car has no cats. What I'm saying is price should reflective of this.

A little blunt I know but it's meant in a positive way. Trust me alic a full time education will give you far more free time than that you will have in later life. Most of us will be doing twice the hours at work done in education, then there's the house, the wife, the dog, for most the kids. Time becomes a slippery ****er. It sounds to me like your want people to validate your view. Ie if enough people say not doing it's ok you will be content. Because your not really confident to do the job yourself. As you likely know, rubber is an organic compound that rots. Hiding behind those covers it should last pretty well. Should. However, if you have a leaky can seal, or coolant pipe etc and that has contaminated that belt it's not going to last so long. The last engine I fitted had recently had its belt done. The idler pulley however was shot. I replaced both. Driving around on it without even checking the belts and pulleys etc over is crazy. I understand your nerves, it's a daunting thing esp on this car. It is in fact not such a bad job. If your not comfortable, then get it done professionally when you can afford it and minimise running it till then and accept its possible. If you do feel competent though read the guides discover it's not that bad and spend an afternoon or 10 what does it matter really doing it right. It's not like you've got to drive that car to work on Monday. Put it this way, if it's a genuine belt, it's marked, the pulleys are marked and the back plate it's marked. It's a game of match the dots. That you can't check by counting teeth and by turning over by hand. Is it scary, yeah, buts it not bad. I estimate it will likely take you about 10 hours of labour. It can be done faster but that accounting for thinking and googling and cups of tea. Good luck. Despite the friction I'm sure if you ask honest questions you will get honest advice.

I thought that was the case, just didn't quite add up you advocating a gracer lol.

That's not a gracer si, I guess you know that. It's the one zcentre sell as a venom/cobra something along those lines, I think he calls it. It's exceeding similar to the early TwinZ one.

Totally agree. It's not that decatting causes smoke it merely allows the problem to show. The relief of the back pressure that discourages oil from passing the worn turbo seals is lost, then smoke. Typically grey smoke at idle, higher revs cause it to disappear, it's not blue because it's uncombusted, just the evaporation from it. It will decrease spool up times and change exhaust note. On an NA it can make things a little raspy and loud, the turbos will stop this though. What you will likely have most fun with is removing the old turbo elbows which will be nicely rusted on.

Basically as titled. I've got a small PS leak atm, I've pin pointed it back to the pump area. It only leaks properly when the engines on. This leads me to think it's the high pressure line. To make all that stuff visible though the inlet piping has to come off. So as long as disconnect both throttle pipes and the maf the engine should be "ok" to run, right? Obviously I'm not going to drive it just get the engine running to get pressure and circulation on the system and observe what it's up to. Just don't want to cause damage or waste time on something that won't work. It's probably something silly I've missed. It's been dropping PSF since I pulled the engine. All the hoses etc were new a few years back so it's probably a seal etc.

Haha. Cost me £13.80 on Tuesday in a small van.

I was under the impression the 17/16" BM57 unit was a big one in itself and the largest thing that fits. I take you haven't got a master cylinder brace? I'm sure you've seen it before but the flex on the firewall when you depress the pedal is huge.