Stephen

Doesn't grey have the same one on his zed?

All sorted now.

Your phone number Mr Burns, haha. Or if you'd be kind enough to call me that would be great.

Sounds like your MAF has failed or is beginning to fail.

Anyone pm me his number please?

See, the old wheels weren't right were they. Those look spanking good. All we've gotta do now is convince you to change the red centres for black ones and it will be perfect! Lol

Mine are like this.

Let us know what your quote is roughly mate, always good to be safe.

Totally agree.

Very different forum. I don't think you'd like it.

http://www.300zxclub.com/showthread.php?t=153912

The owner has a build thread somewhere. He calls his gt500 build or something. Having read the owners thread they are most definitely from an MR2.

Sorry mate. Shouldn't be bad. It's only the portions of it that sit in the engine bay that are fiddly. They run across the front subframe and under the aircon compressor. Just cut them up to make removal easier. Check the routes first, you don't want to cut the steering rack ones by accident.

Much better!

Just yanking your chain Noel, tone is lost with text sadly. I thought you may say that. I was under the impression that the quoted figure were based upon the characteristics of the cold side. Ie bench testing, not including the other factors. Obviously not. Interesting stuff.

Closer to 1.5 bar really, if you wish to be anal. Anyway. I stand corrected. I was under the impression stock turbos were out of their range at 17psi. And that gt2554s peaked efficiency at 19psi. However I was aware that GTX turbos don't really shine until you are making far higher than 1bar.

who said anything about a WRX? The only logical out come to your findings then is that the radiator is efficient enough to not require that help. Ie the fan has no return value of efficiency. Your a knowledgeable guy Noel, it's illogical to suggest that cooling efficiency of the fan is not effected by the shroud. Can you think of a car on the market that does not encorperate a shroud? As a side point at 145mph I suspect that cooling would be more efficient without the shroud, due to a less restrictive pathway. What I'm stating is that at in a hot idle scenario a fan shroud will improve the radiators ability for thermal exchange. Simply because a larger, more focused percentage of the total amount of air pulled by the fan is actually drawn through the radiator. The reality may be as you suggest that the exchange is good enough than the gain from the shroud is immeasurable. I'd be surprised about that though. The bottom line is though, it's a fact that more air will pass through the heater core at hot idle with a shroud than without, as a result the efficiency of that thermal exchange would be maximumised.

I don't doubt that 100xs was an exaggeration but think about it. Without a shroud the fan moves air, well from all around, with it its forced to pull air through the rad. Where talking logic here, path of least resistance.

Get it warm and repeat with the idle valve disconnected. Sounds like it's gummed up a bit.

No problem. This is where an AFR gauge comes in handy, just for peace of mind. As Jimmer said, if it's making 15 that's a good sign really. If you were struggling to produce the 16 you recorded, ie you used to hit full boost at 4krpm now it's not till 5.5krpm, then I'd be concerned. It really would be sensible to test it out.

Some options on the bay of E.

What turbos are they vig? 21psi is a lot and I'd be surprised if that's what they were set up to unless you had some GTX turbos or something. I'd give you a hand if you weren't so far away. I'm actually in Croydon Thursday but I'm on a tight schedule.

When an engine is running it puts its intake into negative pressure, aka vacuum. This means it's sucking in, it's only in the case of forced induction that the intake becomes partially positive pressure, aka boost. Our cars like a lot of turbo cars won't make much boost if any at standstill unless it's really revved hard. Say 2psi at 5.5k rpm. That flash of 2psi wont tell you much. What I'm saying is your method won't work, you will simply suck in washing up liquid. What you could do in that respect is spray an accelerant on the joins and wait for the revs to spike. Rather a long winded process best left for NAs. Without doubt the best option available to the home/diy mechanic is to apply pressure to the entire intake system, via a compressor, small tyre inflator ones you get in some cars aren't man enough. You can usually get something useable for about £100. Pressurise the system to a preset value, I chose 5psi as per the service manual. The reason being applying pressure to the pre turbo section, vacuum area pressurises the oil galleries via the front valve cover breathers. This potentially could pop out an old seal. If you have deleted the pcv this is moot. Some, will push more pressure through say 14psi, this would be at your own risk though. You can then listen for the hisses and use soapy water to locate the offender, which will go like bubble bath. Alternatively you can add a smoke pellet as Russ suggested.

Your radiator will do its job 100% better with a fan shroud btw.

Yeah it's the same loop, what pipe they are on is immaterial. As long as it's between the turbo outlet and throttle body.