Stephen

That's only IF we remain in the trade bloc. It's also worth noting that our economy is the size of all those half member nations combined, so we're in a very different position in terms of bargaining power. However no arrangements or plans seem to be discussed as to how we would operate, in or out or what we'd ask for.

So you have excessive negative camber?

The first question to ask is what do you want to achieve.

My heart says leave, I wish to vote leave get my head hasn't decided. The case to leave so far consists of, "it will be alright" that's not a plan that's a hope. I really don't know. I don't feel Cameron has the kahunas to do the job either way.

No. The pcv system scavenges blow by gasses putting your crank case into vacuum. If your car is smoking due to either blow by causing the turbos to back up and leak, shown as grey smoke at idle or the car is smoking on deceleration due to oil being drawn into the bore, shown by blue smoke. Removing the PCV could actually make your symptoms worse, that is assuming your PCVs are in good order to begin with. If you have a worn engine you will need more scavenging not less. If you want to check it's not your engine causing the issue the best way to start is firstly reading the smoke, colour, when it happens etc then preform a compression test or better still a cylinder leakage test. If the block tests up all good then the first thing I'd do if you haven't already is actually refresh the stock PCV system. Make sure the brass restrictions in the front pipe are still there.

Ooooo that sucks

It would appear at least one piston isn't central in the bore. I haven't actually pulled the Pistons and rods yet. Need to get them some clean storage. I'm assuming the rod is bent. Clearance one side is 0.5mm the other side is 0.09mm anyone know what the piston to wall clearance should be? The bores look very clean, no scratches etc, the original hone is still viewable. Same situation on cyl 2 and 4. The rest are even.

As you have a one piece clutch line. Use the slave bleed to drain the system, then unbolt the slave from the bell housing. Then unbolt the clutch master by the two bolts on the firewall and pull the whole thing out. The master can be rebuilt. Then bench bleed the system and refit.

Turbo are different from manual to auto but only by AR basically the wheels and housings are very slightly different. In terms of rebuilding them the core is universal between T22,25 and 28 so you simply need that kit. Add step gap exhaust seals and 360' trust bearings while your in there and ensure you get them balanced afterwards.

That's cool. Mine seems to launch much better now I've refurbed stuff, no more fish tailing.

I'm guessing, cos from my limited experience your end speed is over 100 it was your first 1/8th of a mile tat slowed you. Difficult launches? Did you video it? As I say mate well done. Hoping to join in this summer. Maybe we can meet up there.

First time you've done it? Well done for getting out and having a go mate.

The front one is yeah. The rear one beings to another club member.

So as some of you may be aware I ended up running a VG30DE in my car with a pair of turbos strapped to it. Inevitably the high compression took its toll and we lost compression. This is when I realised what was there, rather than a turbo block. Anyways that's by the by. It's a late spec unit with 10Y heads. What am I doing with it I hear you ask? Well I'm currently dissecting it to work out what exactly went wrong and wether its rebuildable. So today i had an hour spare, I stripped the front down and pulled the heads.

At the time I said it you were still a registered user.

You must be a subscribed (ie paying member) to use the PM facility.

That's correct. It's usually the lower ones that leak as well. Plenum off job that.

Depending on wether it's intake or exhaust there may be now gasket to replace. :lol:

My mistake. You sure it's a stillen one? Appears to have some extra vents that they don't have and the figment appears different.

Crossed wires there Si. I didn't see your link. I meant the generic unbranded ones, there's some very cheep ones floating around on eBay.

I had eibach ones, swapped with a member for bigger drift works ones. No complaints about either brand. I wouldn't use ones straight off eBay etc though.

No, no I do t doubt it. Just same old isn't it, insurance companies are bloody con merchants.

Ouch. For a full track day, you could swallow that but to drive 400m is pretty spicey.

Those are some slow quarters lol. I hear RWYB is an average of 3 runs with the ques.

For 1 day?