Stephen

Right. Firstly it would appear he has done the reverse switch, else you would of had that flagged up. Check it anyway. Do they illuminate in R with the ignition on. Secondly, is the neutral switch in use. You will see this most easily by pulling back the carpet and inspecting pin 44 which is likely spliced. Check the timing when up to temperature, if it's done right it should be 15btdc iirc or without the neutral switch 20btdc. Once warm with the AC off etc it should idle at 750ish. If it doesn't and the timing etc are correct firstly check for boost leaks. Then check the TPS. If all that's good then unplug the idle switch connector and reduce the idle speed to the correct level and reconnect.

No. It's persistently drizzled all day and I've got work tonight. Maybe tomorrow lol.

Yeah that's not right and a drive prob won't help. You need to get that engine set up. Warm idle should 750rpm. - - - Updated - - - Have you converted this car from auto to manual by any chance?

That's the one, yeah. The further out you push those rear wheels or wider you make them in relation to the front the worse. Depends wether you care about that kinda thing or it's a park hard thing.

I'd have to drive it for that. Tbh it's not much of an issue for me, as a point and shoot weekend warrior it's great. If I had to drive it for anything but fun, it may be different. There's a dozen reasons though why my car used to be civil and comfy and is now, let's call it more focused. It doesn't even have a stereo anymore.

Yeah, that's fine. You won't upset anyone. The biggest issue you get is the occasional person that either takes it to heart or reads way to much into it. If you want serious, the internet a a bad place to find it lol.

They work at the back, I just feel it don't work up front. So you end up with a triangle shape. From what I understand the stock set up encourages under steer and doing that will further exacerbate that situation, not winner. So you've gotta balance it up some how.

like this kinda thing? http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fender-Flares-Wheel-Arch-Universal-Diameter-570-mm-x-65-mm-JDM-Style-bolt-/200990673978

Mate, tron was never a great film. It was "ok" once but never great. :lol: You crack on though. I'd say I've got to know Si quite well over the years, one thing a lot of people don't realise is his opinions which can offend are often banter, as such when it comes back his way that's fine to. I do agree that I don't like the neon pin stripes, Also I do agree though, the velour interiors aren't nice. niether of you would probably enjoy my cars rock hard ride. NM lol.

He's aware.

Now there's a question. I can't honestly give you an answer but we can expand and speculate upon your question. In thoery. Let's just just assume that turbo removal with the engine in place is a done deal. We all know it's possible, but not easy. Many sticks in the mud such as seized bolts etc. It's the access that's problematic not the turbos size. So theoretically it's a case of whatever fits without chassis modification should be changeable, should. So the question is what's the largest turbo that fits without major modification to the car itself. If the stock turbo only just clears on removal then maybe the answer is gt525/sport 500, ones that use stock housings. Now let's ask the better question. Why? Bigger isn't necessarily better and you must consider what characteristics you want and what sort of power level you want. Fitting 6/700 hp turbos when you only wanted 4-500hp is falicy. Doing the job with the engine in might seem simpler but it brings with it other issues, engine removal allows to fix little things you didn't realise we're even an issue. Put it this way, unless you've got an engine that's been out and serviced heavily recently then I think fitting them with it in place is a bad idea. Your cruising towards a headache with that route.

That is all.

The actual changing to manual but is easy, remove auto, fit manual. It's the time consuming faff around it and installing the clutch pedal that will annoy you.

Test both the neutral and reverse switch before installing. Both mine were shot:

No problems mate. I was in the fortunate position though to have the engine out to clear the crap out but still the same principle.

Do we know what they are called?

The brace bar just locks out the original system. It still uses the stock arms joints etc. In your case it would solve the immediate issue. However I wouldn't replace the likely worn bushes and arms. So unless you have new hicas bushes etc then you will likely discover sooner or later they need doing. At which point it would have been cheaper and less fuss to do the job properly with the driftworks kit.

Just gotta change that steering wheel now Si.

I can only think of one person in this club. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?182477-My-Aem-water-meth-injection-installation-pics&highlight=Water+injection

That second set would like nice mate. They look simple and clean, not chav tastic.

Me too, very tempted for those on mine. However the lack of handing puts me off, they don't see a set as such.

I love these, but they're not handed so one sides effectively back to front http://jr-wheels.com/towar.2103.japan.racing.jr15.15x8.et20.4x100108.vacum.chrome.html

That's fine then mate. Just if you were dubious of them, it would stop being sensible to throw refurb money at them.

Honestly. Sounds shit. Do what you can to get your funds back however on a personal note, even in perfect Nick I don't think those wheels are the right wheels for your car.

I actually don't think it's thatttttttttt bad. The rear lights and doors and from what I can see of the interior is yuk, however I do quite like the bolt on arches and as a complete kit it does at least appear to work together. Is it OTT? Yeah it is, but if it flew past me and I didn't know what it was I wouldn't assume it was some body kitted *******.