Stephen

I can’t remember so best check with someone who does know but I think the Forged pistons sit a little sloppier in the block with bigger ring gaps. You may find the shop can resurface the bores to take out that score, obviously this depends on the depth of the scratch and you will just have a slightly larger ring to accommodate. You might be within tolerance, if your lucky. This would also depend on what happened to the bores last time.

So late blocks and early blocks are different? That’s a new one on me. I know the long block is but the short block I assumed was the same...

That or a replacement block with clean bores if he’s already got Forged Pistons in stock size. Might be the cheaper and faster way.

Hrm. You may wish to think carefully on that one. Whilst the individual parts should be balanced in themselves, it’s the way they work together. If you managed to get a slight imbalance 180’ out on both components then at 100krpm that could be significant. I’d consult an expert, I don’t know how it works with these mail order companies that balance the wheels only without the whole CHRA.

Those front Cir Clips are devil spawn.

£150 with post for two $12 parts? Surely that’s a typo?

Out of interest Art, what pumps did you use?

Are they non OEM replacements? Just use a multimeter on 12vdc on the plug from the body harness, negative to body ground and one of the two will give you 12v when switched on. IIRC the one towards to centre of the car with the larger plug is the front, the smaller plug to the side is the rear. There is also a smaller one for the float switch. Should be very straightforward.

Do they not come with moulded plugs?

Maybe, or was it part of a number of small changes to keep the weight distribution sensible.

Few questions Marty. So your now going to have non servo assisted brakes? Have you retained the ABS? Are you still running stock fuel pressure? If so what’s the reason for the aftermarket FPR?

If the bottle is empty this should be indicated by an amber dash light, picture of a windscreen with jets of water. The washer bottle configuration changes with model specification, so the swb and lwb are different and the U.K/Euro version are different again. My 2+2 jdm car the bottle is located behind the drivers side intercooler and has two pumps and a level switch. Uk cars the location is the same but there are 3 pumps and a level switch, the bottle is also a slightly different size. 2+0 cars have a rear a rear mounted washer bottle. I don’t believe there is one located in the front. If you have a front bottle it will be in the drivers side, if you lift the bonnet there will be a fill cap in the corner below the power steering pot. This will be a clear colour with the standard washer symbol on it.

If it’s been sat around doing nothing for a long time then it probably wants a drive. By all means get a good quality oil change in there but if it’s been idle for a prolonged period it’s going to do it. It’s an old car.

You could remove the down pipes and gut the cats. Just to provide an answer. Either way it sounds like you have an exhaust leak down there. There’s a long list of things that could be causing that stuttering though from boost leaks to faulty components. Have you done any diagnostics?

UK spec has a pre cat in the elbow.

Thanks for uploading those. Are you going to colour code?

I will believe it when I see it. A 400Z has been in the rumour mill probably since before the 370z came out. There certainly not going to turn out a fire breathing RWD cut price alternative to the GTR.

I have 18s in 9J with a 20 offset. With 265s, it’s a problem. The position of the wheel in the arch, in poke terms, will vary with ride height. If I ran 245/255 it would likely be ok. It’s also only an issue on one side, the bodywork isn’t MM perfect on most cars and the way it comes in slightly tighter one side means mine rub on the rear bumper tab on the passenger side, now and again.

Any more pictures and can I ask where you got them?

What’s the spec on the rear arches?

Started tidying up a few loose Zed ends. Polished the door and boot shuts yesterday. Got a few pesky things to attend to.

Hi, can anyone recall what the cheaper alternative part is for replacement of the slave? A new Z32 one is about £100 but pattern part ones for other Nissans are about £25. Pretty sure S14 ones fit.

Iirc the Jag has some silly long final drive that makes it very smooth but also pretty sluggish.

Maybe I could learn code so I can finally start building my aquarium controller.

I’ve got one, I’ve also got a hyperactive three year old and wife who’s working from home, essentially I’m solo baby monitor.