Stephen

There are only three variables gaz. Surface area, thermal effectively per unit area(think about the fins) and contact time as you cannot standardise the coolant (air) at a stable temp. Ideally you want a large surface area and long contact time(within reason). This would ensure that the oil would be exposed to the coolant property for the maximum effect. I don't think logically either of those will have very much difference in flow rate. So to that end it's all down to surface area. They appear the same thickness and the fins appear the same density. So if the mocal has the larger "face" logically it's going to be the more efficient cooler. In reality I doubt between these two you will notice measurable differences. Iirc your using a thermostatic sand which plate for this full flow design so the reality is that you will be far more efficient than the stock pressure based system which not only, only runs when your at 45psi or more of oil, so driving, but also restricts the oil pathway to an 18th of an inch meaning flow rate is exceptionally slow. Likely if you wish to boost its efficiency a shroud would be most effective, as mounted just causally in the nose, there is no incentive for air to pass through your cooler, the path of least resistance is to shoot past and round it. Something like this; http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/300858528978?_mwBanner=1 Obviously this won't help you in static situations, traffic etc but then your not building a car that's expecting to see abuse with low speed, I'm thinking primarly there about drift cars, that would see high RPM and load and low speeds. So I think that would be a great option to you. I'm sure a man of your calibre will be able to implement something along those lines.

That's an understatement. I think I would happily eat off most of your car now :lol:

Which one has the largest surface area? The larger surface area it has the more potential it has for thermal exchange.

Personally. I know it's subjective but I think any other colour than Matt or satin black would ruin that car. Maybe grey, maybe. But honestly painting it some show stopper colour will detract away from the mean look and actually make it look like some park hard thing.

That is mean looking.

I got tired of meeting people through the club and saying "hi I'm Steve, z32bolt." So I changed it to my actual name. Makes life a damn site easier.

That's right, you just purchase your ticket online via the Beaulieu website or you can even pay on the gate with cash.

I had the same one a few years back. It wasn't too bad. I felt the fit ment was poor though and ended up chopping the left and right sections off the damn thing.

Hard to say. That KH6 iirc is a bitch to photograph. The flecks in it make it look dull or dirty, you need the sun on it to show the true potential of that colour code. It's a funny one.

Ah I see. Bet your itching for paint.

What mods? The wheels of the GB sticker?

Assuming it's as described then, maybe. Certainly demands a high price. Worse ones on paper have been up for not much less in the grand scheme. I think the average is now about 3.5-4k and this cars double the quality of average. Be interesting to see if it sells.

So is that made of filler?

This is going to be a seriously good looking car when it's done mate.

Finally got the car back on the floor after the fronts been on the stands for the last fortnight, life. Fired her up and spun round the block to warm her up and free those moving parts. Got to adjust the handbrake. Booked the MOT as it runs out this week. :sweatdrop: Ordered 3L of Fusches Titan 75w90 for the gear box. The garage will switch this in while its up in the air for a few quid, I hate getting all four wheels off the floor and basically couldn't be arsed to do that myself.

Personally I'm going to use an AEM fail safe, I believe BigH has two, one for each bank.

There are so many component factors here, ideally you'd want to replace all of them if it was finically viable. Whilst changing the heart, fuel pump, for new is great practice. I would personally if it's all presently working, (have you tested?) invest that money in a safe guard against failure of all components. An item like AEMs fail safe which measures AFR constantly and can cut boost or timing to stop detonation before you've had time to register its even occuring. Prevention is better than cure but proper insurance is golden.

Pretty sure the OEM pump is the best choice unless your going north of 550-600hp. Twin walbro pumps seem popular after this.

Tbh even then it's still cheaper if your getting multiple items. MJP is usually the cheapest UK source.

This is what it looked like in September; By November it looked as it does know.

Neither did I initially. Other parts such as my spoiler and nose panel are good after a period of years. This happened quite quickly after initially looking great.

It's a no from me. You'd have to work really hard, inserting them into the panel so it flowed and felt nice. At present they just look plonked in. Kinda looks like it's trying to hard but hasn't finished it properly. IMO

:yawn: very funny, you know what I meant. I know Ultimaterays pearl yellow one had a black bay. There was some suggestion it was originally a black car resprayed.

Didn't some paint codes of z32 come with black bays from factory?

That may be your issue then, the injector has failed open circuit. Giving you Infinite resistance.