Stephen

Sucker for a project ain't you. Good stuff though, look forward to the outcome.

It's under the lower plenum. If the solenoids gone then maybe. Removing the lower plenum is a pita. Bear in mind if you choose to repair the loom it's not quite how you'd think. The cable from the ECU is a sheathed cable, this then splits into two cables at the connector plug. You cannot just cut and join, you will have to decide what you've got and potentially split and splice the cable. Then if you decide to bypass it you need a resistor.

A front quarter at that. :lol:

I count 4 :p

9/10 it's the loom not the sensor. Notice the code 34 is "knock sensor circuit" not "knock sensor".

I normally kick around while any things being done, simply to help with the cars quirks. It's hilarious to see people get in then struggle to find the seatbelt with the door open. :lol:

It was presence of a fog light. Rear fog lamp missing Fog lamp switch missing The car had already failed at this point. I then pointed out where the switch was. The switch illuminates both front fronts and two rear tails. Admittedly the 5w ones, wired up wrong on import i guess. This wasn't suitable. However no one else has ever commented let alone failed it. I've now installed a dedicated rocker switch with tell tale and this is operated in conjunction with the sidelights. This then illuminates the drivers side reverse light with a p21w red filament bulb. I've now dealt with all the things on the MOT test sheet aside from the exhaust mentioned in the advisories. Which I won't be changing for obvious reasons.

Just go buy a few meters of oil hose in the correct diameter. Don't forget there's a restrictor in the line, think it's the line from the cooler to the pan. You will need this. Without it you could potentially have lower than preferable oil pressure at high revs.

Mine used to do this, when I cornered too fast or accelerated heavily it would drop to zero. The connector on front of the engine was breaking contact.

Sure to be said Greg il will be changing. I used to have a good guy but he's not about anymore. I know Gaz uses a fair guy so il probably use the same chap.

You will have to explain the details to me some when Richard. My HMRC tax brake down last year, the company car cost me a fair few quid if I understood it properly.

Ta dah, the one in the car and this spare are both the same.

I'm out and about atm but yeah sure.

Haha, fair enough.

Ah that makes sense. Enjoy the tax. Haha.

Is it as long as that. I remember it sitting there in ringwood when you got it. Why the change?

:lol: maybe it's a SWB thing. No seats, no dots.

You've had that insignia five minutes I swear? I do like the new C Class.

If you pop your reading glasses on you will see two little white dots. These would be level with the needle if it were in the dead centre position, or 9 o'clock if you do wish. That's where it's "supposed" to sit. This is where mine sits. As Joel said though some variation is common place. The gauge is a simple stepper motor that uses the resistance value of the tempreture probe, this is a thermistor ntc type. The hotter the sensor the lower the resistance value resulting in a climbing needle. The stepper motor adjusts the reading in stages, I don't know the values, but as an example; Cold 70-50 ohms Normal 50-20 ohms Hot >20 ohms Something like that. Hope that helps.

That's about the period where they had lots of problems isn't it? Issues with electrics and corrosion.

Means nothing. Our stock temp gauge is an indication at best. They may as well of given us a pair of lights one red one blue, indicating cold or overheating coolant, as found in most cheap cars. Could of put a clock there instead, one that works.

This sort of thing annoys me. It says it's 50w, using these silly equivent to things is meaningless. Same as a 50w bulb, what bulb? Wattage is not a measurement of light it's a measure of power. It's like saying my car does 100hp MPG.

Paid a shocking £8 for a red p21w from halfords but hey, no one can moan now. It's "brake light bright"

It does annoy me, the car has been here 12 years and no other tester has ever mentioned it let alone failed the car for it. I did contest a bit in the MOT place at the time. The response was just because it's not been picked up before doesn't make it right. The fact I got an advisory for the exhaust tells a story. Once I've got it passed on the retest I won't be using them again.

Cheers chris. He told me "it should be as bright as a brake light" the suggestion was to use the B light cluster, reading the regs though that wouldn't be acceptable. The LED lamp I fitted was equal to the brightness of a sidelight IMO.