Stephen

Ah that makes sense. Enjoy the tax. Haha.

Is it as long as that. I remember it sitting there in ringwood when you got it. Why the change?

:lol: maybe it's a SWB thing. No seats, no dots.

You've had that insignia five minutes I swear? I do like the new C Class.

If you pop your reading glasses on you will see two little white dots. These would be level with the needle if it were in the dead centre position, or 9 o'clock if you do wish. That's where it's "supposed" to sit. This is where mine sits. As Joel said though some variation is common place. The gauge is a simple stepper motor that uses the resistance value of the tempreture probe, this is a thermistor ntc type. The hotter the sensor the lower the resistance value resulting in a climbing needle. The stepper motor adjusts the reading in stages, I don't know the values, but as an example; Cold 70-50 ohms Normal 50-20 ohms Hot >20 ohms Something like that. Hope that helps.

That's about the period where they had lots of problems isn't it? Issues with electrics and corrosion.

Means nothing. Our stock temp gauge is an indication at best. They may as well of given us a pair of lights one red one blue, indicating cold or overheating coolant, as found in most cheap cars. Could of put a clock there instead, one that works.

This sort of thing annoys me. It says it's 50w, using these silly equivent to things is meaningless. Same as a 50w bulb, what bulb? Wattage is not a measurement of light it's a measure of power. It's like saying my car does 100hp MPG.

Paid a shocking £8 for a red p21w from halfords but hey, no one can moan now. It's "brake light bright"

It does annoy me, the car has been here 12 years and no other tester has ever mentioned it let alone failed the car for it. I did contest a bit in the MOT place at the time. The response was just because it's not been picked up before doesn't make it right. The fact I got an advisory for the exhaust tells a story. Once I've got it passed on the retest I won't be using them again.

Cheers chris. He told me "it should be as bright as a brake light" the suggestion was to use the B light cluster, reading the regs though that wouldn't be acceptable. The LED lamp I fitted was equal to the brightness of a sidelight IMO.

Hopefully you will now have a lot more room too.

That is weird. Sounds like an exhaust leak. I wonder if the auto is pushing the revs up just enough to change things.

What ever! :lol: some ****y yanky thang. Everyone's cottoned onto them now anyway, robbing the fan out of grandads Volvo is far more practical here in the state of England in the EU.

That's likely the leftover from the AIV/EGR solenoid vac loop. You can either plug the throttle body and accordion pipe ones or just link them.

Sadly it's a suck it and see thing. Your cats would of not only masked but prevented oil leaking out due to the increased pressure in the exhaust. The oil will make its way to the area of least resistance, If the exhaust has lower pressure than the oil pan then it's going to leak into the exhaust. Theoretically, even if your turbo exhaust seal was non existent, if the pressures were correct it still wouldn't leak. With a healthy engine, low blow by, healthy turbos you shouldn't suffer any problems. To reduce risk a properly functioning PCV system will improve your chances.

If your not prepared to sit there and do the math I think your likely to fail. Is it do able? Totally, what at these days has a viscous. It does however take some planning, forethought and tweeking. Alternatively copy someone else's work buy using a ford tanus or Volvo fan. Two dinky 10-12" eBay fans, not saying that's your plan. You need something that can PULL.

I found a 50w cree in p21w fitnent, that would do, just worried about it melting the loom.

Il bodge the red brake light bulb in for now if halfords do them, just the please the MOT guy. After that I couldn't care a less, I won't be using it.

I Spose there just locating pins heh. See if I can pick up a red one on the way home tomorrow. If I've got time.

:lol: I've got enough on my plate.

Good responsive power.

Naughty. What you expecting that to bump the power up to?

So to comply with the request of this particularly fussy MOT tester I've had to renew my fog light situation. I've used the drivers side reverse light housing, to comply with "centre to offside" I purchased some SMD style red bulbs, on the assumption they would be bright as hell, sadly not so. So any recommendations of how to ensure its bright enough, I can see the conversation already of its not. I do not want to clutter the back of the car with some gash looking red dingle berry.

Speed converters are notorious mate.