Stephen

Assuming it's as described then, maybe. Certainly demands a high price. Worse ones on paper have been up for not much less in the grand scheme. I think the average is now about 3.5-4k and this cars double the quality of average. Be interesting to see if it sells.

So is that made of filler?

This is going to be a seriously good looking car when it's done mate.

Finally got the car back on the floor after the fronts been on the stands for the last fortnight, life. Fired her up and spun round the block to warm her up and free those moving parts. Got to adjust the handbrake. Booked the MOT as it runs out this week. :sweatdrop: Ordered 3L of Fusches Titan 75w90 for the gear box. The garage will switch this in while its up in the air for a few quid, I hate getting all four wheels off the floor and basically couldn't be arsed to do that myself.

Personally I'm going to use an AEM fail safe, I believe BigH has two, one for each bank.

There are so many component factors here, ideally you'd want to replace all of them if it was finically viable. Whilst changing the heart, fuel pump, for new is great practice. I would personally if it's all presently working, (have you tested?) invest that money in a safe guard against failure of all components. An item like AEMs fail safe which measures AFR constantly and can cut boost or timing to stop detonation before you've had time to register its even occuring. Prevention is better than cure but proper insurance is golden.

Pretty sure the OEM pump is the best choice unless your going north of 550-600hp. Twin walbro pumps seem popular after this.

Tbh even then it's still cheaper if your getting multiple items. MJP is usually the cheapest UK source.

This is what it looked like in September; By November it looked as it does know.

Neither did I initially. Other parts such as my spoiler and nose panel are good after a period of years. This happened quite quickly after initially looking great.

It's a no from me. You'd have to work really hard, inserting them into the panel so it flowed and felt nice. At present they just look plonked in. Kinda looks like it's trying to hard but hasn't finished it properly. IMO

:yawn: very funny, you know what I meant. I know Ultimaterays pearl yellow one had a black bay. There was some suggestion it was originally a black car resprayed.

Didn't some paint codes of z32 come with black bays from factory?

That may be your issue then, the injector has failed open circuit. Giving you Infinite resistance.

Which particular one do you love? The first, second or third one that's shit the bed on you? :lol:

There were other factors involved there as well I think as it did the same on other occasions. Poor H lol. We had to push him up the hill.

More than likely yeah, sign of success. However I believe there was a slight cock up with the stewards that saw a portion of cars getting stuck in that car park off to the side and the main drag then cut them off. Think it was just a little hiccup to be honest.

Last year was a bit of a hash. I will ask what the intention is with that. However in previous years we've sailed in pretty smoothly. A few minutes at best.

You won't get 12v across the injector connector. They are constantly live and then the ECU makes the circuit by grounding it. The plug only supplies live. You will have to put the meter on the battery neg or block and the positive to the right pin. You want your meter on ohms which is the horse shoe type icon, then with clean pins you should see 10-14ohms. If your meter is saying 1 on the left with nothing on the right that means the circuit is open. The resistance is infinite. The most likely cause of this if they are all saying this and you know they work is the pins are dirty. I suspect though your not using the meter correctly.

Don't put the SR in. I know I works and it's actually a better swap than most people think but getting what a stock vg30 can get power wise for a boost increase vs what you'd have to put into the SR and i recon you've gained nothing. Yes it's lighter and parts are 10 a penny but it's a 2.0L 4 banger. If you wanna do an engine swap then I'd go for some aluminium blocked v8 any day of the week and make strong NA power and get the weight loss. Alternatively have an easy life and maintain the vg30 and add a few psi with a map.

I got a 8x4 sheet of 18mm ply, got it cut into 3 sections and that made life 100xs easier. Allowed me to use the hoist on gravel.

From that it appears I applied to top coat too thick and there was moisture in it.

Bear in mind that some of weight will go back on.

In honesty it's not saved me much by doing it myself as apposed to if got id had it done. By the time you factor in all the bits. Tbh though it wasn't a cost saving excersise it was a learning curve. Once I have the facility I plan to paint the whole car, if I can't get a flat panel right, well, it's a good place to start learning. Little stuff I can do, but bigger sections with a compressor is something I'm keen to learn.

Nice. DIY?