Stephen

Where abouts is your B&B Russ? Gimme a PM if you don't want it to be public knowledge lol.

Confirmed by poor compression? Oh dear. Pain in the ass this game isn't it.

Hire a beaver tail and transport it yourself bud.

What's up with your engine? The valve stem seals weren't the issue then?

Need lots more information than that for a value I'm afraid. Just bear in mind you will need to subscribe as a member to sell your car here as well.

Don't get me wrong I'm not anti auto, I'd take a modern auto for a daily any day of the week. Although I did opt out of the DSG and had the standard 6 speed in our new car, it was an unnecessary extra expensive both on the purchase and servicing price. As said though most high performance cars are a form of auto these days with good reason. However the z32 auto box is a dinosaur of a box and having driven the same car auto and manual it's a far better driving experience and less hassle as a manual.

Not that you will listen, but honestly I'd get that NA through an MOT and flog it. Use the money to buy yourself a cheap and most importantly reliable run about. Something that does 35mpg and parts are available on the shelf at Euro car parts kinda car. Leave it stock as hell and get that test passed. You can then concentrate on the TT and by the time it's done you will have some experience driving etc. I've done the zed as a daily thing, it can be done but there's a reason most of us have them as second cars or weekend toys. Just leveling with you mate.

Both automatic? Have you driven them both?

As a side note Ali, you have the worst combination there. NA and auto. TT autos are ok as the boost makes up for it and because of the auto meaning boost is maintained that straight line whoosh is pretty good. NA's are quite fun as manuals because they are responsive, add the auto box and you loose that responsive feel.

Pros and cons IMO; Auto; Pro. Very smooth, power delivery is glassy and boost is held constantly through the range. Even in tricky traction situations, snow etc the car will just pull away beautifully. In stop start traffic it's a joy. Tall gearing. Con. Dim witted and slow, every now and again it does the opposite to what you want, change up or down at the wrong points. Sometimes it has a little hissy and can't quite decide what to do quick enough, I'm talking 100s of seconds but that's annoying enough for me. JDMs have inaquate cooling and cook themselves. Most are poorly maintained and cause problems at some stage. Up the power and the life span drops quite quickly. Manual; Pro. More involved and responsive drive. More robust transmission, the clutch is usually the weak point with power upgrades. Far simpler to own, the FSM section for the manual is about a third of the auto, simple is good. You can loose a gear or 4 and still get home, hell you can drive a manual with no clutch. Con. 2nd and 4th gear synchos are prone to failure. The stock clutch line is a pain to bleed, easily fixed though.

No problems. Jimmy has one. I've been looking at them myself, quite cost effective and basically boosts oil volume and maintains oil pressure in those surge conditions. Half way house between a dry sump.

I have "Z Sport" stock clocks that go to 300kph. I swapped it out though for a 180kph JDM Custer which reads in MPH. I've thought about removing the speed converter. Why? Well just because really.

Once I found the bloody thing. Cheers for your help mate. It's throwing up, or was throwing up code 34 and 42, Dett sensor harness and fuel tempreture.

Sorted it. Turns out the ECU plug had worked itself on the cock.

Thought about an accusump?

I'm sure il be able to trace it all about given enough time. But that's the biggest problem is time, and motivation. I really can't be bothered, I just want to drive it.

Right it's a Sigma S Series with a toad immobiliser. I don't want to go ripping things out and doing unnecessary work, for obvious reasons. I assume the immobiliser has a 12v supply, a ground then inhibits one or more circuits. So simply linking out the cut circuits should render the thing useless. I really can't be doing with this crap. Car does my head in. The temptation to sell it is growing more and more these days. Just go round and round fixing one thing and other things fall out the sky at random.

Anyone know how to bypass the alarm/immobiliser it's a sigma S series

You are right. I'm snow blinding myself because before I did that it worked but that was a week or so ago. I had a quick look this evening with a spare 10 minutes and I have no spark and no fuel pressure. I'm guessing by this coincidence that both have an issue it's likely the immobiliser.

If your going to change the filter tree, change the 0 ring inside it too.

I Who's cars that? Dont recognise it.

Looks like you had actual parking rather than a field which is novel lol. Glad to see you all had fun.

Pull off the plug and put your multi meter across it. You wil need the Ohms section, and should see around 12-14ohms. Injectors are individually changable but it's a pain in the ass. My money would be on the contacts rather than the injector itself.

Mjp.

Do as Ali suggests. Use the spring clips provided stock, hose clamps like Jubelies are a nightmare in that position.