Stephen

Try cleaning and cleaning the contacts on the PTU and CAS before you get too worried.

Look pretty good to me too. Bit of carbonation on the outside, electrodes not damaged or pitted. Be interested to hear learned opinions but I'd be happy with that myself.

Maybe ok then. Even the stock diff whines on solids.

When you referbed your subframe did you go poly or solid diff mounts?

Just gotta keep it that way now :lol:

One of them isn't it. I've got some cheapish rears atm to pass the mot. But 2nd is a waste of space. Full throttle in 2nd soon as I hit boost unless conditions are perfect she's spinning. I had Pzeros before and tbh things weren't a whole lot better, after they went below 3mm. Need to do something, rears brake free and the fronts lock up too easy. That's with 225/40/18 and 265/35/18s.

Useful to know. I'm tempted to just throw some really sticky tyres on them. It's not like I use it in the wet or even drive many miles.

Yeah. It's tolerable to me and that's what matters. The cars super sharp now. However I may switch to a softer spring rate, everything else is in place to compensate and will give me a ride that's more British road compliant. It's fine on main roads but on the back streets etc it's pretty harsh. I believe the rate it either 12-10k or 10-8k. It's better now the alignment is done, absorbs the little bumps but the big ones are awful. In the rear there is plenty of room from travel yet but I need to modify the front arch liners, then I can happily go to a 8-6k or 6-4k. I know someone will say, just make it higher but that won't change the spring rate and it's not crazy low as it is. The dampening isn't adjustable.

The most common reason the hi as light comes on is the PS fluid is low.

Recon there's enough room on them for 245 and 265s? Or are those pretty tight already? Those wheels are on my short list.

Looks good. What size rubber have you squeezed onto the Rays?

In that case if the plugs weren't meeting the requirements I'm sure he would of said, no?

You deserved a holiday mate, glad you and the family had a good time.

I like the gram lights mate.

You should certainly recheck them after a few hundred miles of having them off, pretty much any tyre place will state it on the invoice. I checked mine last weekend because I knew I was going to take the car out, out, and I'd had the wheels off recently. Always sensible. That being said I know plenty of people that have dropped the car off the stands driven off the drive and round the corner only to go, "oh sheite!!!" And have to go home and redo it. It's so easy to do them hand tight then forget to tweak them up.

Have you had it mapped? Or does it have a generic chip?

I've got solids with matching diff bushes. They do transmit a lot of noise, 70+mph I can clearly hear the diff over the exhaust. Collars are ideal as dropping the frame is a pain.

Awesome. Look forward to the result, then il have to zip up to you and sponge a ride :lol:

Would it not of been cheaper to post them? :lol: did you have a good trip?

Your Boost solenoid is on the otherside to that diagram, so that line goes straight from the plenum to the sensor cutting out the whole loop. Then you need to blank the one on the throttle body and accordion pipe, you can temporarily link them if you haven't got neat bungs.

:thumbsup: you all mapped now?

You should still have one on the drivers, that's the EGR. Then one on the passenger, there's the PRV. If your EGR has been removed then I'm wondering where the vac connection from it is going. The EGR and AIV use a little hard tree on the plenum. Just delete all that crap, so you will just have the bare minimum. These should help; http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/197828.html

Trouble is you can't get them in the UK can you. So you end up having to tie it in or pay ridiculous postage. I'm tempted to knock a dozen up tbh.

I have to say I agree. The whole point in doing what your doing is future proofing. We all understand your on a budget, pretty much all of us are but doing half the job doesn't do what you set out to do. Make sure you set the tension and rotate the engine by hand to check you've not made any mistakes.

The marks are as a guide. I repeat, count the teeth as per the FSM.