Stephen

That's a shame gaz but that you for keeping us updated. Il pop you off the list.

Seems like I applied a heavier than desirable coat of clear. Il have to knock it back, see how far it goes. Then I'm going to try again.

You can happily delete the coolant pipes under the plenum. You need the turbo coolant lines though, really. Research plenum water pipe bypass, plenty of information.

Despite your hatred for them, I know my Bailey BOVs don't have this particular issue.

Finally sorted the hand brake out. Then I spent about 4 hours cleaning the skoda.

:lol:

Poor quality lightened flywheels are what scare me. Have a google if you don't know what I'm on about. What it does to the bell housing and tunnel are scarey. If that came through and hit you you'd loose a leg and that's if your lucky.

Like when they nearly crash because they are driving and they are leaning in the back sorting out the lunchbox debate?

I managed to score a prop off a UK car with about 4miles on the clock. Ok more than that but criminally low miles, it was broken for parts and scrapped. If and when it fails I will likely go aluminium one piece, coupled with a lightweight fly, more for the rotation mass reduction than to go single piece. A functional stock unit is great all round solution, albeit expensive and heavy.

If your really interested; http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/additional-how-to/0608rc-driveshaft-tech/ I had an aluminium drive shaft, gaz now has it. So light in comparison.

Our Gary isn't one for mornings anyway, haha. I was supposed to get up but I've ended up having a lie in till 7.30 this morning, that sunshine makes me lazy.

You expecting to get caught for something Si, buttering them up before your trial. :lol:

That would come into efficentcy per unit area. Lazyness on my part there. Plus they appear to be the same thickness. Lazy. Il nip round there and get him out of bed, get my ol' measuring stick out and create a closed loop out of it and test the time taken to reduce tempreture on both. And the tempreture gradient across them both. Probably a bit much. :lol:

All of the above plus the ignorant speeder/dawdler. The one who you get stuck behind on an A road who insists on going 45mph in a national. When you reach the next village and the limit drops to 30, they continue at there preset 45mph showing they have no awareness of any road signs they might encounter. Then when you've finally had enough after half an hour of this joker the disgusted look as you over take them as if your the bad driver. Oh that could drive me murder. If your going to be slow at least be bloody consistent and if your going to speed, do it on the fast road not past the school, shop, people's houses that are 10cm from your wing mirror. :taz:

There are only three variables gaz. Surface area, thermal effectively per unit area(think about the fins) and contact time as you cannot standardise the coolant (air) at a stable temp. Ideally you want a large surface area and long contact time(within reason). This would ensure that the oil would be exposed to the coolant property for the maximum effect. I don't think logically either of those will have very much difference in flow rate. So to that end it's all down to surface area. They appear the same thickness and the fins appear the same density. So if the mocal has the larger "face" logically it's going to be the more efficient cooler. In reality I doubt between these two you will notice measurable differences. Iirc your using a thermostatic sand which plate for this full flow design so the reality is that you will be far more efficient than the stock pressure based system which not only, only runs when your at 45psi or more of oil, so driving, but also restricts the oil pathway to an 18th of an inch meaning flow rate is exceptionally slow. Likely if you wish to boost its efficiency a shroud would be most effective, as mounted just causally in the nose, there is no incentive for air to pass through your cooler, the path of least resistance is to shoot past and round it. Something like this; http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/300858528978?_mwBanner=1 Obviously this won't help you in static situations, traffic etc but then your not building a car that's expecting to see abuse with low speed, I'm thinking primarly there about drift cars, that would see high RPM and load and low speeds. So I think that would be a great option to you. I'm sure a man of your calibre will be able to implement something along those lines.

That's an understatement. I think I would happily eat off most of your car now :lol:

Which one has the largest surface area? The larger surface area it has the more potential it has for thermal exchange.

Personally. I know it's subjective but I think any other colour than Matt or satin black would ruin that car. Maybe grey, maybe. But honestly painting it some show stopper colour will detract away from the mean look and actually make it look like some park hard thing.

That is mean looking.

I got tired of meeting people through the club and saying "hi I'm Steve, z32bolt." So I changed it to my actual name. Makes life a damn site easier.

That's right, you just purchase your ticket online via the Beaulieu website or you can even pay on the gate with cash.

I had the same one a few years back. It wasn't too bad. I felt the fit ment was poor though and ended up chopping the left and right sections off the damn thing.

Hard to say. That KH6 iirc is a bitch to photograph. The flecks in it make it look dull or dirty, you need the sun on it to show the true potential of that colour code. It's a funny one.

Ah I see. Bet your itching for paint.

What mods? The wheels of the GB sticker?