s13silvia

If you're real fancy get an Escort Fibreglass rear hatch!

66.1 - 73mm (most likely, the last number depends on your wheels)

ET25's stick out even further than 35's so should be less of a worry - BUT I must apologise nonetheless, I went out to check last night, and whilst the arm is very close to the rear, it acctually sits just inside of the wheel whilst on the ground, but when I jacked it up the geometry changed slightly and thats what caused it to touch :) So yeah, no need for spacers on the ground!

edit - I didn't notice myself until it was up on the inpection ramp, was pretty shocked myself never come across such a problem before with low offset wheels. It could be the design of the lip though, its quite thick at the rear

Mine did, 17x9.5 et25-30 (not marked but I've had tonnes of sets of alloys so a fair guess). The bottom alignment arm fouled the wheels inside lip by a fraction of a mm and has gouged the alloy to buggery - the previous owner didn't notice though.

Yeah that's good going :cool2: You might need 2-5mm spacers up front to clear the caliper and 2-5mm at back to clear the lower adj. rod but you'll find that out once you fit them! Check the back of the rear wheel for fouling once installed just to make sure! Should look pretty sweet though :gunsmilie:

Sorry just realised you can't test.. what's the offsets? As far as I know you're talking around 30-32offset being ideal for the front if running an 8" wheel, you can then compensate a little with wider wheels. Caliper clearance, and in the Z's case adjustment arm clearance is usually the thing that catches people out - It comes down to many factors, you could have 18x9.5's up front with 20 offset and still end up with the caliper being fouled depending on spoke design (hugely unlikely example but you get the idea).

Aftermarket wheels are highly unlikely to be hubcentric for a particular model of car so don't worry about that - the problem is RX7's tend to use higher offsets than the 300 boys, so you may want to consider spacers... take em for a test fit though you never know :)

^ haha damn ,I put in an offer and no accepty :( Wouldnt pay that much for it but still seems good value for rare clocks

With these speedo's is the needle calibrated to read correctly on the gauge? Here's a point for you guys - if anyone's complaining about the price of a 330kph gauge, imagine trying to make your car powerful enough to get to 330kph :p

Lots of companies selling nice wheels for good prices from Japan, the shipping for 4 is only around 250 pounds to the UK. Which is so cheap considering shipping a 5kg spoiler is about 400 pounds from America.

I had this for a few weeks and not had it since, it's either going to be Diff CV joint Strut Exhaust

:)

Thanks Jeff, had a check but the light itself is definately level, it just the right edge of the centrepanel.. I'll check out the online manual see if I'm missing one of the nuts! Thanks guys, will let you know of progress

see to take off the centre panel - you undo the 4 bolts at the rear, but what keeps it in place in the centre? poppers? I tried taking it off before but it felt like it was going to snap and didnt have a screwdriver handy to pry so gave up

What's going on here lol, I've seen it on a few Z's in pics so I know it's not just me, the rear light centrepanel is out of line where it meets the driverside lens. It sticks out towards the rear about 2mm and really is beginning to cheese me off, I've tried removing the seal from behind, tightening up the nuts further nothing budges it! It can push in fine by hand but can't be tightened into place.. am I missing something simple?

^nout wrong with a single exit lol.. what type you got?

yes the guy has a huge project thread detailing everything about the build... its pretty intense. It uses a single exit exhaust too :) I'll try to find it

It's much like a 300zx, buy one and you might be lucky, it might last a long time without requiring anything more than standard car servicing.. or you might not be so lucky, but instead of spending 500+ a month fixing things you'll be spending big big money! It's a gamble, but it would be very special to own a real fezza!

Very true point - but performance wise it's all the same, my point was more that I couldn't justify the price of a stainless system purely because it came from a top-brand jap tuner, over a stainless system using locally sourced steel and a competent and experienced exhaust fabricator. :thumbup:

First things first, stop brand whoring - spending 7-10k on an exhaust (don't think I'm plucking that figure out my head, quite a few systems cost that much if not more when it comes to exotic materials) is quite un-necessary when going for such a low power figure. Secondly, there is no need whatsoever to import a whole exhaust system. 500-600bhp is nothing crazy and doesn't need the finest engineering. Stainless is stainless whether it's made by a magical pixie in toyko and sold under HKS, or whether it's sourced from a building site! In answer to your question, work out where you're wanting the power first, low end or high end - going big and free flowing is going to result in a lack of torque whichever way you slice it, but the opposite is going to result in a lower peak bhp figure. Find some good quality smooth elbows/downpipes first, thats your most important call and go by first-hand recommendation, and this is where you want to spend the money - then get a custom shop with a good reputation to make you a smooth 3" exhaust system from there back (should be around 300-400 pounds), the SWB doesn't have a petrol tank to get in the way so use it to your advantage. If it's a track toy you may aswell have 2 single smooth boxless pipes. If a road car a similar design would be good with low restriction backboxes at the rear and inline bullet boxes inbetween. Then ceramic coat it/ wrap it. Job done.

sorry but going back to that vid, i want the nissan with the revolving chassis and robot!!!

Yeah the T28 would be alright, bit laggy compared to the bb ones but cheaper.. Would they fit straight on I wonder, they are 5stud flages as well aint they?

Would they fit beside the block on stock manifolds?

Yes we'd all love HKS GT2530's etc. but given the price it's a no-no. Second hand GTiR / S15 turbo's are often within reach (though sourcing a pair takes a while). Are these any cop and do they fit without modification? Currently running 14psi on stock turbo's and bored already :tt2: