s13silvia

Just had a thought here - people say the stock ecu compensates for higher than usual boost by overfuelling. So why not use it instead of going the tuned route? I was just considering having my DFCO disabled and having the map made slightly richer to get some nice pops/bangs at lower revs on let off, but suddenly realised - perhaps upping the boost on a stock ECU would give the same result? I have decats and straight through exhaust and bov-less so it's set-up otherwise to make some nice flames/pops but it's completely pop-less :(

Then it's a uk manual ECU I'm using from John Dixon.. so I figure its mapped for uk fuel. Nonetheless I shouldnt be such a tight arse :p

^ 93 octane, which costs 1.25 a litre. The problem here is I have to travel 60 miles to get super unleaded. And that is 1.21 a litre compared to what we're offered. I can get standard 95 octane and premium 97 or whatever about 30 miles away though. but it's v expensive for the premium - never mind the trip there!

Hmmm... wonder what arms to go for though, I know people who have spent mega money on the very best makes and after a couple of years it's just snap stories.. Same with the cheaper driftwork arms etc. What ones did you go for Si?

If you're not financially secure and like half the petrolheads I know, in a pile of debt feeling miserable that you've spent 15k plus on a car worth 3k max, at which point your car will inevitably break down, then hating the car. Nah, I think maturity and common sense has to come into it, value what it's worth to you in the long run before starting out on the journey. I've decided that my Z will be finished in 2 months time, I know what I want for it and I know when I'll be finished. I'll have spent about 6k on it probably but I won't care- itll be getting cleaned and stored from that point to keep her pristeen and will be replaced with a cheap day-to-day hatch.

No error codes, but just a thought... I had a bee*R on the car until today, 2 of the wires tap into the CAS wires, if one got slightly loose could that trip it? Once I run it again last night the car was boosting fine. I'm thinking I'll get some colder spark plugs and some higher octane fuel in future just to make sure it's not detting.

Planning on dropping the car a fair bit with coilovers, just wondering will 18x9 et25 be quite a comfortable fitment all round? Anybody running this size on their 300? If it's just a matter of folding up the arch lips that's cool! On a side note, how are 300's for alignment/camber correction when seriously dropped? Thanks, David

It won't rev for much longer if it does buddy :scared:

Ah right! Wouldn't have thought theyd have switched the loom between american and jap versions.. acctually that makes sense with the ECU being on the opposite sides. Thanks! I'll give it a crack in the morning - it got to be on 2nd ign. ?

Thanks guys, will give that a check tomorrow morning... question -does anybody have a picture of where the diag port is in a uk car? I looked at the far left under the flare/dashboard, there's 2 white plugs above each other, not sure if it's one of those

Was pootering along in 5th hopping up to 100mph then suddenly the surge reduced - slowed down and went into boost in 4th, only boosting to 5-6spsi :chris: No missfire, engine running smooth, not overheating (according to the gauge) - what's the standard checklist?

Really :ohmy: didn't realise it was that bad! When I drive like a saint I really, really drive like a saint too!

It's one of those things, I can drive like a saint and acctually see decent MPG out of it considering the horse power - eg. I can do 45 miles with 15 pounds @ 1.25 per litre. or, you can start playing and acctually count it by how many 'plays' you have left before you run outta fuel :p . Worst I've managed so far was 20 miles to 15 pounds of fuel but that was down to proving a point with my mates Aston Martin db8. :D

Though I can see your confusion, does it really matter? Genuine NISMO braces would set you back a damned site more than those prices I'm fairly certain. If it doesn't say NISMO on the page they wont be held accountable either, no matter how similar the labelling appears or refers to the genuine company. But more to the point, if it's a genuine motorsport branch which tunes NISSANS soley, be it third party or whatever, you're going to be getting a good product :yes: and the prices you're listing aren't that expensive for good parts.. try them out and see what you reckon before sending em back bro :thumbup:

Done a few sets, you're going to have to appreciate the fact that if you're doing a rattlecan job they aren't going to be flawless, but you can do a pretty good job by taking your time. Use nitromors repeatedly to remove any paint. Then key the surface using a very very fine wet sandpaper. From there on any primer/paint will really to the job to be honest! Just do quite a few coats and use a hard wearing lacquer.

K, push the seat back get down by the accelerator pedal, take off the plastic fuse cover. there's a fuse puller in there- its top row about 3rd or 4th along, a red fuse (10 or 12v). Shine a bright light you'll see the break.

As in one of the posts check down by the driver footwell again, theres a 10 or 12 amp fuse in there which has gone on me 3 times, thats the exact thing. when you put the lights on full beam comes on and cannot be cancelled, but dipped doesnt work, sidelights do.

I can't hear the fuel pump at all unfortunately but then that could be my poor hearing. Tried the above to no avail - this is funny though 1. Try to start car - starter whirs (no matter if I leave it spinning for 1 sec or 15 sec) 2. Try to start car - starts straight away. 3. Turn off 4. Try to start again, exactly the same as above.. again and again and again always 2 times to start!

Sounds like a real nightmare.. I wouldn't be as relaxed if it was me shelling out the dollars! Hope it comes out ok for you

celica's are nice and I'm warming to the slicktops.. Man if only I'd known, I sold it with 6k worth of top quality mods and running around 230-240bhp for 800 quid MOT'd and TAX'd :glare:

Just a curiosity with what is most likely the cause here - dodgy PTU/Starter/Flywheel/cabling? My 300 always, but always takes two times to start. Wind it up once, let it wind down then try again and it starts. It's never gotten worse or better but it's frustrating!

^ hey bro, lets see a pic of your 4th gen, that was my last car :) my lude--

Don't drill - it can be done yes, but it's almost never worth it.. go for adapters, just bear in mind you'll have a trade off so think it through, narrower adapters mean less offset, less strain on the studs, but thinner adapters may also be weaker (not too sure on this however, I generally feel uncomfortable running adapters/spacers), thicker means you may need arch work to fit them. H&R do tonnes of adapters from 15mm up to god knows how thick.

26 in a few days. No other cars :p I trust my Z as a daily runner... waiting for it to bite me in the bum!

The recirc and atmos work exactly the same way - the only difference is that the vented air in a recirc is.. recirculated through the intake tract. It's an economy aid as much as anything, and also the car runs smoothly. Boost isn't held however. Atmos bov's shag the MAF readings after venting and can result in momentary overfuelling on release, as does removing the BOVs. Performance difference is negligable, if even recordable - but mpg goes down slightly.