Yowser

Not a pretty sight, but an inspiring machine. ??

Vh45de - 4.5i V8 Quad cam 32v. Aluminum. Said to be the strongest factory produced engine around. Its full spec reads like a full-on Race engine and its derivative was used in the Le-mans race cars. Its the engine Nissan had considered using in the Zed before settling on the VG mainly because of cost issues. Costs.....well not cheap..... Bare minimum Gearbox adapter Engine mounts Modified sump Exhaust headers and custom exhaust ECU EFI splicing ....but ideally you would want to go for a Dry sump system to get engine sitting as low as possible and there is the risk of oil starvatrion and surging with a modified standard sump. Tuning THe stock Intake plenum is designed for a certain power range (to haul a big heavy luxury car along at low revs) and can be restrictive for big power. You could go for Custom Intake system with individual throttle bodies. Cams, Headporting. Rebore for larger capacity, Bigger injectors, Standalone ECU Management. Lightweight pulleys. Higher compresion pistons. Uprated Valve and springs for higher revs. Turbocharing and Supercharing is a popular option too. You will lost a fair bit of weight from the front end, so you would need Adjustable coilover suspension to setup the balance and ride heights again. Best person to have a chat with is John Dixon, and get on http://forums.nicoclub.com , http://www.hybridz.org and http://www.vh45de.com

Friday has a good contact in Japan for the Vh engine.

Go for the Vh over the Vk, its proven to be a better, stronger engine.

Sounds like you may have disconnected the o2 sensors instead of the stock wategate selenoids, if so car would be running very rich.

I dont know how the ninja 600 compares to a Yamaha R6 been a long time since I was into bikes.......but I had a race with an R6 owner when my TT was on stock boost....from 50mph upwards...he initially jumped a car lengths ahead then we were equal and from 80 I was passing him and at 100mph+ he was rapidly dissapearing in my mirrors....we were both suprised....so ran it again....same results. He was giving it everything, fully tucked in, full revs..etc Below 50mph I would'nt of stood a chance.

They may buy them as salvage from Insurers. Dont suppose they have a slicktop breaking ?

There is a new rides section coming soon. New software..etc

Cool...about what a TT with 1 bar of boost is capable of. So vid kinda shows a good comparison between what a TT vs NA would be like :)

Seen the one with the Red dash before. Jimitsu knows him. Its an Auto NA.

A fair comment on DIY conversions, but a lot of the Zed specialist Traders are very experienced with this conversion. I know for example, that just in the last 4 months alone SWZ Performance have done 7 Manual conversions on Z32's. ...and the conversions are exactly as they would of come out of the factory as all parts used come from a Donor vehicle using full Nissan OEM components.

Blasphemy!

The heater system on series 1 cars decides itself where the air should come out of. Sometimes its better at deciding than other times :( Ideally it should be set at around between 21-23 degrees, which is the ideal ambient temp. Have Econ turned on (turns off the aircon) unless you need aircon and want to set the temp below 20.

Sounds like a nice spec....series 3 so Nice velour dash and doors instead of tweed, electronic hicas..etc p.s I would'nt consider a manual conversion a waste of money, far from it, when it will up to £1k to the vehicles value. It is ofcourse a more cost effective change when you have a failed autobox though.

Deja Vu. Happy birthday Si :duffer:

http://www.autostyle.co.uk/ - Custom made, any design, tailor fitment for 300zx.

Sorry to hear. Although it does'nt take 2 months to get any part for the zed....you went to the wrong parts supplier unfortunatly....MJP in Traders section for new parts, any part thats not stocked available in a few days.

Also likely that its stolen.

I've never noticed a difference.

Here you go http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/FAQpages/tempfan.html

1. Anna, Paul & kids 2. Legrath and Family

lol I would If I could find the right one (at the right time)....I stupidly missed out on a couple that I should of snapped up straight away. yes, I NEED :D a Slicktop. Does'nt matter if its NA or TT, Auto or Manual since engine and transmission (and pretty much everything else) will be replaced anyway just has to be a slicky and not to expensive since all I really need is the rolling shell.

Over the past couple of days there has been loads of threads with pics of your zed's in the sun just washed and polished...all of them looking great... ..STOP IT !... its not fair :cry: David (Very jealous right now...and feeling slightly depressed about it!)

In general : Higher compression = More power lower compression = Less power. However Lowering the compression allows you to run more boost as there is less chance of detonation, so although you lose power throughout the rev range, it is compensated by being able to run higher boost levels. This does mean that off-boost the car is still down on power, so you have less low down power and torque and all your power is high up in the rev range. You also have less throttle response. Great for a peak power dyno runs, drag races and even some track racing...but not so ideal for real world driving where it will suffer as you tend to use the entire rev range and spend a lot more time at lower revs. Lowering the compression ratio is usually required once you start going over 20'ish psi

Sounds good. Fitting bigger injectors too ?