JaiKai

Just a test fit !

Maybe I'm getting ahead of myself on this. As the engine isn't even fitted yet so to get power to everything I've grounded all the looms and hooked up the ground for the battery to the chassis too. I've likely missed a ground somewhere. Engine should be fitted this weekend so hopefully it will power up.

Permanent live feeds are good, getting nothing from the switched 12v. And I have turned the key :) Is there a fuse somewhere for the ecu feed ?

It would also be a pain in the tits as its a custom loom and the cables would have to be routed a different way.

Now I may have an issue, can't seem to get this ECU to power up. The new engine is still on the stand so I know the wiring loom of the engine isn't fully connected but I have properly grounded parts of the looms that need to be grounded but i'm getting nothing from the ecu and my laptop wont connect to it either. Am I missing something - apart from an engine. All I want to do at this point is ensure the ecu works and that the software unlock code I've been given works properly.

Out with the old in with the new !

Totally agree with Simon, If you don't have a spare glass or have never removed a glass panel before then high risk of it cracking.

Next part of my build has arrived - update soon.

Done this job twice now and its easier if you just replace the parts for new and it looks better too. I started with carefully removing the plastic edge strip that goes all round the glass, it will be very brittal so will snap off in pieces. The top piece has a few clips underneath and they are used for alignment when fitting the glass, you can pick up a kit on ebay that is used for removing glass and it will have a large T skewer to push the cable through the top corner and that's where you start. The new oem rubbers can be expensive so expect to pay upto £300 for all 4 pieces. You need these parts : 90352-32P00 Moulding-Back Door, Upper 90314-30P00 Clip-Moulding, Upper (4x of these come in kit with above part) 90366-30P00 Moulding-Corner, Upper RH 90367-30P00 Moulding-Corner, Upper LH 90372-32P00 Moulding-Back Door, Lower If you manage to get the first part off without damage then you will just need the clips to align the glass properly. The corners also damage very easily but they are really expensive for such a small piece of plastic.

Actually we have 1042 active users; and when I say active they have registered and logged into the forum. When we changed all the users groups at the end of the AGM I took all current registered users that have logged in within the past 6 months and moved them to standard user group, then I just left the rest so I could tell what was active or not. So if somebody who is in the registered group posts they automatically get promoted to the standard member group.

Sorry, Just completely fudged those stats :) There is actually 4 main Member groups, They are : 8447 - Dormant (Automatically gets promoted to registered after 1 post) 0726 - Registered (Automatically gets promoted to Standard after 10 posts) 0165 - Standard Member 0151 - Premium Member (requires subscription fee)

There is currently : 165 Active Standard Members 151 Active Premium Members 8,447 accounts in the Dormant Status. Dormant accounts are when a user does not login for over 1 year.

Reading up on this on the link forums and the recommended place is about a meter or so down from the turbos. Just dropped off my pipes to my garage and i'll get them to fit new boses, then i'll run the cables up via the old holes for the cat sensors.

New ecu ordered and dispatched along with a few sensors. Still to get the lambda sensors ordered.

Happy Birthday Mike.

I'm getting rid of the maf and going for a dual intake, wheres the best place to put the ait sensor?

I've ordered two wideband sensors and I'll get my garage to weld in new bosses for them. Likely down where the cat sensors used to be then I can bring the sensor cables in via the old route under the seats.

Because you've taken them upside down. But your phone adds a marker in the picture that tells each device which way is up.

Hi Mike, When going for the wide band sensors i'm I correct in thinking you need one for each exhaust port ? Is the factory position ok for these or do I weld in a mount further down ?

Only Admin, Committee and Mods can delete threads. Just PM one of us and we can tidy it up if need be.

Started to add all the extras for the engine today and progress is good. It's taken me longer than it should have due to missing or should say misplaced bolts but it's getting there now.

Bump, So I'm looking for the following as minimum : Link G4 ECU AIT Sensor Additional options : Lambda modules for 2x O2 Sensors (do these replace stock sensors ?) Boost Control Solenoid

Anyone got a dummy maf or broken one ? I'm going for a dual intake setup and don't actually need the MAF any longer but I need an adaptor to fit the Apexi air filters I have. So either a spare maf will fit it or I remove the maf and fit some sort of universal adaptor.

Not the greatest thing to do as the Van we were driving was under trade plates and traded insurance. And it barely passed its last MOT with white gaffa tape covering up all the tell tail signs of rust.