JaiKai

ok, For some reason the oil pump isnt pulling up oil from the sump. Spoke to Jimmer and he suggested to back fill it from the other side as the pump may be a bit dry. Need to head now but will give that a bash tomorrow.

So i've pulled off the sandwich plate and we have zero oil ? What the hell is going on as i've now emptied the engine so i can take the filter off again.

So think i have discovered my oil pressure issue . Thinking it may be a Sender issue, i unscrewed the sender expecting a face full of oil and nothing. Slightly pannicking i undone the sump plug to get a full handle full which is great. The issue i think is an air trap on the T section of the adaptor i used on the sandwich plate show below. Going to remove the adaptor and see if oil flows from it, if it doesnt i'll need to take the sandwich plate back off and see whats the issue is. If there is no oil at the sandwich plate then we have other issues.

yeh, Actually forgot i already had two looms i bought from Link, i had to remove both seats to pull them out from under the carpet.

Also think i need a new battery again, My Link G4 ECU power light goes off during crank and the status light on the battery itself is also no longer green 🙄

Fixed the first flash code, bloody lambda sensors were unplugged at the ecu side. Now the code is 5 fast then 5 slow, which says to me Code 55 in Nissan terms and maybe i just need to load the laptop and clear the fault codes. However i still have no Oil Pressure guage even after making a botched cable!!

This is the oil sender harness which for my series 4 is on the passenger side. I'll need to cut this and extend it to the new location off the oil tree.

I also get a few flash codes which is 4 slow flashes and 5 fast; which denotes a lambda sensor issue. Apart from that with the injectors disconnected i get perfect turnover with the engine. Now i need to extend the other Oil Sender harness and see if i can get a signal from it.

Right, Was planning on doing a first start and i've disconnected the injectors so i can build pressure in the oil. Unfortunately no pressure on the gauge. But i think it could be because my zed is a series 4 and the hook-up for oil pressure sender is the wrong one. As i have two sender harnesses , one on the passenger side which used to goto the left of the block and the other is part of the Wiring Specialities loom which is the one thats hooked up.

And that nearly everything underneath now done. Next job before i take it off the ramps again is to make a harness for the wideband sensors.

Starter now bolted in. Has to take the test pipe back off and bend the shield slightly to get it all in.

Bought these test pipes for the better ports for the wide band sensors

all going good onto the new AMS pipes

next job was fitting the prop again

Oil changed out for fresh and after a fight which i nearly lost i managed to get the box back in.

Time for an oil change on the old gearbox. 1/4 of it is very milky and must have been needing flushed since the last time i done it. Its never been run in so that why its looks like that.

Ever thought about replacing it with a new but retro looking design ? Retro looking and has functionality. Various designs made by Blaupunkt https://blaupunkt.com/product/bremen-sqr-46-dab/

Hi, You can email at jaikai@300zx-owners.club

New seal installed, but wont be until the weekend until i can fit the box

Standard size i believe is 87mm which these are, the product code and size is stamped on them 6549M87 They are $217 each from Wiseco https://www.wiseco.com/shop/auto/professional-nissan-vg30dett-piston-87-00-mm-bore/

Set of Pistons Purchased in 2020, fitted to my current build and barely run in, Upgraded to a size bigger so these have sat on the shelf since doing nothing since. The rods are stock out of a 1996 TT. Not sure what these are worth so PM me an offer.

Finally.

So was all of mine 😎

Oil seal removed and now need to find a new one.