vodkashots

thanks for that, another thing to add to the never ending upgrade list lol

It might not be, but id seriously get that checked out before you decide to drive it again, and try not to start it too much unless its getting diagnosed. Personally, from going from personal experience, always think the worse, then you wont get any nasty surprises like i did, with engine tapping / knocking from now on, if i get it, the car is going to stop being ran until i find out what it is. i can hear the knocking on the video, in fact its quite loud even from inside the passenger cabin, when your near it does it sound like a midget hammering on some pipe work with a hammer? (best way to describe it) if so id say its your shills or big end area.

Any news yet matey on that video?

yeah, I've just got a new engine ready for mine, getting the engine crane tomorrow, so will be out sorting that most of the day. So glad i work for my self, though the misses is looking after the business while im sorting out the engine on the car.

What ever you don't rev it, if its that bad already but louder, it wont be long until it goes bang, and you really don't want to be putting a Con rod through the side of your oil pan like i did.

watch this clip and listen carefully, if it sounds like this, then you need to sort out the bottom of the engine (connecting rods and big end) and for god sake don't drive it. or you will end up like me, having to change an engine. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=126024&highlight=engine+knock

There ya go, saves me having to type out the same thing lol

Im half way through a engine out job, from what i can tell you would be better fitting it before you put the engine in, if gear box is already in, you will need to route the wire cables down to the starter motor, just be careful of catching them when putting the engine in. Ive been told and also read that its easier to change the harness with the engine out, yet i have good access to mine with the engine in, though this might be due to not having turbos in the way.

http://carscoop.blogspot.com/2008/03/ebay-bmw-m3-replica-based-on-96-honda.html you forgot this one too :P

i don't believe that, that coyote was hit from the front, in fact i very much doubt that coyote was hit full stop, have a look at where you can see its fur poking out from the bumper and you can clearly see that the "fins" are still intact. even the fins above the first row, there is only one that is damaged, i bet the coyote was hiding under there, they started the car, drove off and then heard whelping coming from engine bay and pulled over to find it. one lucky doggy though

A/C compressor weights in the region of around 8 to 12 kg id imagin going by how heavy it feels ( could be way off though, but seems that much) Plus A/C condenser removed and subsequent pipe work, doubt it would make much of a difference, but would certainly make your car a tad lighter. As for electric seats over manual seats, cant answer that one as haven't the chance to take the seats out, mine are tweed with one electric and one manual, though the misses wants me to get an electric for the passenger side for her.

Well my A/C is empty, so it wouldn't work unless i get it re-gassed anyway, my last two cars have had A/C but i haven't really used it much to be honest. i did once for the misses but not for my benefit

Right, waiting on a engine crane being delivered, and would like to know if i take out the A/C pump and leave it off will this affect anything else apart from weight and the obvious fact i wont have A/C, will it effect the heating for winter in anyway? also what else can i safely remove that's not necessary as a weight saving exercise? while i have the new engine here.

http://www.z32photoguide.com/emissions.html try this link scroll down to the EGR part

Well if you pull the cable off the square headlight on the driver side(one with the problem) both go out, yet if you repeat this on the passenger side, only the square one stays on. Again just like that post you linked too, they were working, but are not, i cant say when they went like this due to them being like it when i purchased the car. Will have to trouble shoot more once I've finished this engine swap, and the wiring is all back in.

How do you connect them? would this be a safer bet to sort out my headlight issue or would i still need to trace that problem down first? See pics for example of problem Passenger side is fine and work how they should. Drivers side how ever, get power but don't light up as much as it should, looks like its on a dimmer switch. Im still none the wiser about this as im yet to check the fuses down near the warp-drive pedal. Would this be a symptom of a blown fuse on the 300zx? **EDIT** thats a magnetic rubber based, dish in the second photo by the way lol

nope but from what I've read its the closest to white with out starting to go blue.

DTA sells the kit for under £100, and if you do go HID's then get the 6k ones i do believe.

Well that confirms it then, thanks zx-eyes and Si, looks like another upgrade for me car then lol

OK how can you tell if you have HIDs or not, and where would be the most likely place to put the ballast. as im not sure if i have them or not, i have xenon bulbs in which leads me to believe that i have them, but not too sure.

you teasing bugger you, i can buy them as well just cant pick um up till my next payday (or unless i sell me dishwasher that i don't use lol):headvswal

Well the 1 ton will do the job, but as long as its not at full stretch.

to rent one around my area Price per day + deposit = may as well buy one.

:cry::cry::cry:

I didn't bugger the hydraulics up on it, he did lol, but yeah i can see how it reads....(i didnt even get a chance to get me mits on it)