John Dixon

Nice one Andy, hadn't realised you were doing it so seriously these days. Good luck with it.

It was a custom made core by pace then I had the end tanks made and welded by someone else. I think it's both thicker and taller, can get the measurements easily enough for you. It's certainly higher efficiency too. Ivan - It was pretty quick but not crazy - 370rwhp, it just handled well and I wasn't scared of it I think!

Good chance the fluid has perished the rack mount so the rack is wobbling around a bit. Get some poly ones, only about £20 but a bit of a bugger to change with the engine in. The groaning could be an air lock still. Fill the res up then with the car on stands twirl the wheel back and forward lots of times and keep an eye on the fluid as you do it. There's a seperate procedure in the FSM for HICAS but think we junked it on your TT anyway?

I wouldn't start the queue just yet, you'd probably die of old age waiting for me to finish the bloody thing :o

Lol, wait until the V8 is running, should be a real car then and you're welcome to come and get scared again :D

Ah, you're talking about extending it to make it deeper. You could cut and weld the 300 one but I'm not sure there is much room to do it, I've seen a few grounded stock sumps! Ideally if you make it deeper you should get a new oil pickup pipe too to take advantage of the added depth. I'm guessing trust supply that in the kit too.

You'll need to baffle it internally too to get any real benefit. If you just extend it it just gives the oil more space to move away from the pickup into. You can try an accusump too. It's a cannister that holds oil at pump pressure to deliver to the engine if the pump starts pumping air under surge. Would be OK for the odd surge on cornering but not for sustained surge as it just runs out!

Keith, looks fantastic mate, top work! If you're stuck for bends, Leon at alunox exhausts can source 1d bends in stainless which are as tight as you're going to get anywhere. His number is 07811196727

Lol, no, I meant -16JIC Size lines (1") only two: one to feed the pump pressure stage and one scavenge return to the tank.

Don't know of anyone that makes one off the shelf for the VG30, would be a nightmare to fit in there but if you loose the air con you could do it. For my VH45 install I designed one using parts from pace (http://www.paceproducts.co.uk) very helpful blokes and pretty much every racecar in europe uses their stuff, the quality is unbelievable. Biggest problem in the Z is space, you need to fit the tank in the boot then run -16 lines back and forward to it. I'd budget for around £3k all in to design and build a system, pump ~£1k, plumbing, cooler stat etc. £1.5k then some hardpipe and fittings,sump pan, breathers etc. Advantages are no oil surge ever, no level of oil in the sump so more power due to less losses from slapping around in oil and you can run the crankcase at vacuum so pick up power there from reduced pumping losses moving air around. Also obviously you reduce the height of the sump pan to minimum so can lower engine for better C.G. and possibly move it back to reduce polar moment. Some pics of mine attached to give you an idea of what's required.

Happy Birthday Mate!

Might well be, although the koyo core isn't the best really. Might be worth trying venting the bonnet or fitting auxillary rads in the intercooler locations, have that as a standby plan on mine if necessary! I know it's a good engine, it's just the 2 valve / pushrod thing seems a little quaint now! As I said though, can't argue with the numbers. Guess the yanks stay with that design as they like the sort of lazy delivery of those engines.

Yes, they're runners with individual 48mm throttle bodies on them.

Hi Liam, had forgotten all about it mate. Some new blank chips arriving next week so will do it then for ya.

Cheers for the comments! Spring - hopefully if only I can get enough hours off work to actually look at it again! Maaark, the chevy will be cheaper, that's a guarantee just seems like a bit of a dinosaur but you can't argue with the power/£ you get from them. Rad mounted at that angle for 2 reasons really: 1) you can get a bigger core in. It's a pace 3 row with opened up foils for angled mounting. Core is much bigger than a koyo and far more efficient. Being angled also helps with efficiency as the air stream hits the long face of the tubes too, not just the edge. 2) If you mount it straight up then there was nowhere for the air to go, it was far too close to the engine. Will vent the bonnet above the gap now then duct it so there is a good flow path. Also going to re-locate the oil cooler to below the nose panel and make that into a sealed area so all the air through the (vented) panel will be forced through it. Will then have a seperator below it to stop the air going through from impinging on the flow from the back of the rad and interrupting it. I'm guessing cooling should be OK as lots of people with big turbo builds seem to use Koyo rad with no problem.

Finally got the rad fitted in the car, just a bit of plumbing an air box, manifolds and an alternator to go!!

Didn't I leave a 12v PSU over at yours somewhere for this? Clue: Small grey thing with fins and slots :tongue:

That mototune artice is pretty much what all engine builders I've spoken to have said too. Also is the same advice given by Graham Bell in his books. Only other thing to remember is if you have changed the cams or had them reground then you have to keep the revs > about 2000 for the first 20 mins or so to harden them properly.

Just checked on the spec sheet for the quaife and theirs is for an R200 which I'm guessing is the Z31 NA Z32 is R200V, TT Z32 is R230V. Might be worth seeing if they would do one, some of the other big RWD cars must have a similar size diff.

Tomei again though is a 2 way plate. Important line is "Since the LSD will lock while backing off the throttle this design will help with sliding the tail out under more controlled conditions" You have to be sure that you are a smooth enough driver not to back off the gas quick if you go into a bend too hard, otherwise there is a good chance you will spin. I'm not sure if mine is an RS or MZ, will try to find out. Might be worth looking to see if any of the japanese companies do ATB or tosen type diffs? They do seem to love the plate type though, guess it's the drifting culture. Think I'll change mine for a quaife if they do one. Other benefit as well over the plate type is no maintenance, the plates do wear and need replaced eventually.

I've got a cusco 2 way on mine. It does give good traction but you have to be careful with it, no sudden backing off the power etc as it will lock pretty hard. Also, you tend to get a little more understeer which you then have to cancel with a bit more gas. It does clunk and bang very noticably at low speed to and even chirps a tyre when cornering at low speed (junctions mainly). I'd go for a quaife ATB if they do one for the Z as they are much more forgiving. If you do get a plate go for a 1.5 or 1 way so you get no locking on decelleration, much easier to drive

Hi Mike, you can buy new adjusters off MJP, they're only a few quid each. It's pretty normal for them not to work, the shaft spins in the little plastic gear. Think you may have to remove the headlight to fit them though.

Danny, Leon at Alunox supplies these, think he's had good results with them. He's in austrailia working for 6 weeks at the minute though.

I did some of the more specialised ones for him. Most of the ones for stock cars were just JWT ones he did.

Yes mate, they're exactly the same.