John Dixon

Yeah, had planned just to buy fuel than pay it off straight away by bank transfer every time.

Shell are doing a credit card that gives 3% off all their fuels. Few guys at work using them, just applied Link

Happy Birthday mate, sorry I missed it on the day!

You can make a new trigger disk to go inside the cas. I did this for my V8 one, works great. Otherwise you can weld one to the crank pulley

its in psi x 10 so set to 155 for 15.5.

You'll be OK, he drives like a girl :rofl: ;)

Basically yes. Leave start boost (set gain) at 0 until the last thing. Start with set about 30% and gain about 20. Do FULL THROTTLE runs in 3rd from about 2000rpm until redline if possible. You should be getting 10-12psi - if not adjust the set until it's around there. Adjust gain until the spool up is quick and the boost is not unstable at high revs - you'll feel the car surge. What you're aiming for is the highest gain before the boost surges at high revs or spikes too much at midrange' Once that's done then adjust the set to give the boost level you want. Finally, set the 'set gain' at about 3psi below the running level - that should give you the best respons possible without affecting the stability. Re-run in 4th if possible and if unstable reduce gain slightly. Oh, obviously set the limiter to about 15.5 with around 20% cut too!

If I ever get it running I'll let you know! Not bothered about the number, just the response and handling. It'll be quicker than my TT engine anyway if I've got the sums right.

You'll probably find that was a 'factory special' they tended to do that for shows etc.

Yes it is, and yes. I've basically set it up with a circuit that switchs maps on the ECU in sync with the exhaust bypass valve. The ECU has 3 maps 1) Mapped with Exhaust closed 2) Mapped with Exhaust open 3) Mapped with Exhaust open + full throttle shift, pops and bangs etc! I had Karl modify the ECU PWM table to an on/off which then triggers the map switch between maps 1 & 2 and also opens the exhaust if the selector switch is in mode 2. The selector switch has 3 modes: 1) Exhaust closed and map on 1 2) Exhaust auto and map 1 or 2 depending on exhaust pos (prob open if throttle > 30% and rpm >4000) 3) Exhaust open and map 3

You might find that increasing the gain on the controller will improve the response. Problem is if it has been mapped as it is then you may need to re-map if you play with it. If you end up with the boost coming up quicker then you may lean out in the mid-range depending on whether MAF/MAP?TPS is used for load sensing.

Are the wastegates being controlled by the AEM or an external boost controller? Setup of the boost map / settings can have a huge effect on the way the turbos spool up. You'd expect them to be laggy but maybe not as bad as you describe, also, are the wastegates setup properly (ie adjusted to open at the correct pressure?)

Cheers for the comments. Yes, that is the oil cooler. Bit worried it might not be big enough but will suck it and see. Aaron is right about the buttons, nothing more exciting than that I'm afraid!

Yeah, you would do! Even the 4.5's rarely actually make 350bhp against TVR claim of 450. Used to give my mates a good run for it's money in my standard-ish car.

Hi Mate, As promised pics of progress while you were away: Rad fixed in final location. Fuel plumbing done, may foul edges of air box slightly? Clocks in place, look good. Wiring 'tidied up'!!

Lol, was talking about specific gravity, John Smiths :hurl: Jack D. everytime for me! Found some data for pure Ethylene Glycol eventually so just sort of guessed at where the mix would be. Looks like I only need about 800cc air space above the liquid when cold with a 1.2bar cap so a small tank will do. Just as well really as there isn't space for a big one!

Anyone know where I can get data on SG of antifreeze solution vs temperature? Trying to calculate what volume of header tank I need in the Z but a bit difficult without that data!

Bad ECU probably, mine did the same thing ages ago, swapped ECu then it was fine

How about fitting a couple of these!! Just going out from work after re-con. It's nearly 5ft across the compressor wheel, off some sort of ship I think.

If it's for aftermarket ECu then you might have to fit one as some don't recognise the nissan pattern. Also the nissan one uses 2 inputs so that might be an issue if you need them for something else. For neatness on mine I made a new trigger disk for the CAS with a 36-1 pattern then just used the inner sensor witha pull-up resistor as the input. Better than a hall effect as it's a 12v signal so much less prone to interference. Pic below showing new one vs nissan original.

It is good for traction and responds much quicker than the viscous so you don't get that sort of slow 'tank-slapper' that the visc sometimes gives you when the wheels spin up a little. On the downside though it's noisey, clunkey and pretty aggressive. Tears up the tyres a bit too on the edges when it locks wheels at low speed.

Will probably have used the standard NA ring although I believe cusco did make alternatives for the R230. They're all plate diffs. I've got the 2 way in mine, 1.5 was also available. The 2 way to be honest is a bit harsh for road use, locks up quite badly on decelerration so you have to be really careful matching revs on downshifts.

I'm using avant brower which I find good. Sort of new front end for ie7 backend. Lets you store your bookmarks, autofills etc online and access from anywhere which is good. Also supports all in one gestures.

In 304 they won't last long. It's not vibration or flex that kills them so much as thermal expansion stresses. It's whay all good turbo manifolds are 321 or inconel.

Good to see you back Tony!