John Dixon

Got the PAS ECU plug a few days ago. Cheers for the freebie!! Looks like the HICAS ECU has a bit of a hissy fit when it can't see the engine one. Going to convert to an NA unit instead.

Mine are QTP too. Quality seems good. I'd get the electronic controller too if I were you then you can set them to any opening you want.

You'll love the bypass, it's awesome! Did you try Leon for the manifolds and stuff, his prices are pretty good.

Got to remember, THOR is NOT an RR, it's a dyno pack so you can't compare their readings directly, it's comparing apples and oranges. It's quite possible to loose 50hp through deformation of the tyres vs being connected directly to the hubs. Pretty much all RR read a bit differently as most companies don't calibrate them often.

Was talking to Ben at driftworks about this recently. It's just odd how people will bang on about how great the skline R32/33 handle when the suspension on the Z (& 200SX) is almost identical yet it gets such a bad rep. Same with the weight thing, mine was only ~1300kg with the boat-anchor VG30 in it (SWB man, targa) yet everyone says they're so heavy. Granted the stock spring rates / bushings / ARB are not setup for razor sharp handling but change those and it's actually pretty good. Certainly surprised a lot of much more expensive machinery in mine.

I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure the powertrix stuff is made by HSR (see driftworks). Certainly looks pretty much identical.

IMPUL is I think, a semi-official nissan tuning company. Haven't seen their maps so can't really comment on them. I'd guess it'll be a better tune than the JWT though.

The ECU is identical to the JDM ones, only the mapping differs. Mine ran 370 at the wheels for more than 5 years with a pretty much identical setup without any hassle. I do leave the safety maps intact too which is something most aftermarket chips remove.

That gain looks high for an E01, a while since i set one up but think they normally run about 7-9 gain. Put the start to 0 initially, set the gain to 8 then play with the setting to give about 12psi. Next adjust the gain to give boost boost response without too much spinking or instability. Once that's done then trim the setting to give the desired boost level and put the start boost about 3-4psi below that.

Not even looked at it mate, going to have a play this weekend if my oscilloscope turns up in time.

Nice one Nick! You'll probably have your's on the road before me (only been at home 5 days this month :( )

Cheers Jeff. Thought that might have been too easy!

I think it's M12x1.5 but don't quote me on it!

Anyone have a picture of how these are connected on the UK cars? I'm wondering if the wiring is there but just not connected up on japanese ones? Going to use the original fog switch for my rear fog now I've binned the front ones.

NO, SS won't weld to ali. I'd get a stock pipe 2nd hand and try it personally. Tapping drill for NPT is an odd size though, something like 8.6mm/0.339" (Rob will no doubt be along to correct me!). I'd just take it to an engineering shop and get them to do it. There's not a huge pressure on there and tapered threads with a bit of sealant seal very well. If the stock pipe is > than about 3mm then I'd say give it a go. Failing that then just get a piece of ali welded on and tap and drill that. Chances are that if you buy a pre-tapped boss it will distort during welding.

Have a word with Faye at speedflow (http://www.speedflow.co.uk) she'll be able to sort you out

I can do you an ECU for that spec no problem. Only JDM ones I've seen are JUN.

Pretty sure the stock sensor will be a BSP thread, most likely 1/8 BSPT. Don't put the NPT fitting in there. The only difference between 1/8 NPT and 1/8 BSPT is that one is 27tpi and one is 28 - problem then is it feels like it's fitting OK then wrecks the thread as you tighten it.

It didn't make much difference to my insurance. Not all Z's had it anyway, was an option I think.

Exactly, I nearly overshot onto a busy roundabout when I hit loose surface on the entry. It's common on a lot of Z's with this setup. Just fit the brembo's, bin the ABS and job done! It's a good setup and not hard to modulate without ABS anyway.

It doesn't. Had mine do the pulsing-but-not-stopping thing a few times on me with that setup. Was why I binned it, very, very scary.

The fuel pressure reg is on the passenger side of the plenum, rear sort of under the balance bar. Follow the small vacuum line from it to the metal pipe it joins. Follow this to the other end, it should then go onto a rubber pipe currently connected to the PRVR solenoid. Just below the end of the metal pipe, you will see a hex nut on the plenum with another small vac line coming off it, also connected to the solenoid. Disconnect both from the solenoid then join them together.

That's part of the PRVR system. Best bet is to bypass it by connecting the line from the fuel pressure regulator straight to the outlet on the side of the plenum that is currently connected to the solenoid. Once that's done you can bin the solenoid if you want.

Fair enough, at least while you're running carb it'll give me an edge :tongue: I just know from the old school LS6 454 on a boat I helped build that the holleys are really, really crude. You're right though, easy to convert at a later date, you can keep scouring ebay for cheap bits! Don't be blinkered by the yank idea that you have to one of those manifolds they love and a 4 barrel body, runners and ITB's work just as well on a chev as any other engine, just think the yanks can't figure them out!!

Why not just use your existing manifold, tap some holes in it for the injectors then put a 4 barrel throttle body on it? Your existing ignition system would not need modified for most ECU's