John Dixon

Can probably have these made for less than that in stainless if anyone is interested?

Not sure, just did it recently when mapping his car. It's not balls out flame-spitting but does have a nice pop and burble. Could make it flame spitting easy enough though.

It's easy to make a Z do it, you just need to remove the overrun fuel cut and then map it lean on the overrun sites. Just ask bantambunny!

Oh it's duff and saz's 300zx club site. Won't post a link for obvious reasons!! May cut and paste it at some point but it's about 20 posts and dozens of pics so I can't really be bothered today!

Started a project thread on the 'other' board, don't really have an equivalent section over here. For anyone interested:

Chris, useful advice as ever, I can see why you stuck to capri's in the past. This new fangled stuff is obviously a bit much :D Nick, must be either an air leak, MAF issue or problem with the pump. On the runs we did, fuelling was pretty much rock steady right up to the limiter.

No prob mate. Did you manage to fix the intake piping OK? You still want the DoolZ map or you not bothered now?

Cheers guys. When will it run, no idea, being philosophical about it now, it'll be done when it's done. Between family and work commitments it could take a while! By the way, the welding on the sump wasn't mine, just the pipes. If I could weld ali like that I probably would take it up!

Also finally found somewhere to put the alternator. Just as well they run OK backwards really! Still had to put an extra idler pulley on there to get the belt to clear everything.

Sort of got started on it again after about 6 months due to moving workshop, having a baby etc!! Got the oil lines run to the tank in the boot. Pretty pleased with them as it's the first time I've really welded anything, bought myself a TIG off ebay, a few lessons off Leon at Alunox (who makes it look like the easiest thing in the world, b*****d :) ) and gave it a shot. They're 304 S/S so should outlast the car. Fuel lines run on the same brackets are annealed ali just because it's easy to bend. Also managed to eliminate a big loop I had on the front scavenge satage as I couldn't get the braided hose to bend tightly enough without kinking. Just did it in rubber and clips in the end, suction only so no big deal.

This is what you need:

Doubtful you'll get any difference from an off the shelf job. To expand on what Danny said, the actual job of the diffuser is to get the air from under the car back to the same speed and pressure that it was at before it went under there, and to do so with minimal drag. It's the reduction in area under the car and associated increase in air speed/decrease in pressure that causes the downforce, the diffuser just acts on the end of it to reduce the drag caused by the transition back to the original speed / volume. Without being attached to a proper undertray and being angled/sized/shaped correctly you'll just have something that looks OK and probably causes more drag. Look at how most of this aftermarket stuff monts. Are you really supposed to believe that a spoiler / diffuser held on by a few M6 bolts is carrying any aerodynamic load? Would you expect it to hold 40kg if you hung it on there as weight?

And with water cold, 11ms is added to the pulsewidth when cranking which is >10x the actual idle requirement.

Yeah, prob best to leave it. On idle/ low throttle you won't do any damage but once on boost you could quite easily cause a blowup! I'd try K=205 to start with and whatever latency venom recommend, see how that goes. Worth disabling the closed loop initially too to stop it trying to adjust out your changes.

Interesting. Only thing I can think of that might cause that on idle would be the cranking signal to the ECU being shorted? Given that you can see MAF, TPS etc readings on consult / nistune then it's a fair bet that all that wiring is OK. Not going to be shorted injector earths if you can hear them clicking. Just thinking that the cranking enrichment will be huge so if the ECU thinks the engine is cranking then it will overfuel massively. Don't have tuning stuff on my work PC so can't check but might be worth looking at, try disconnecting that signal??

Sure I said that about mine 2 years ago!! Good luck with it.

Given the running problems you're having I'd say that the reading is possibly correct and that's why it's overfuelling on idle. May be a good time to try a known good 555cc chipped ECU and see if that works any better. Always a possibility that there's a problem with the program on the nistune NVRAM.

Strength I have no idea to be honest, guess it's a suck it and see. I'm thinking that dimensionally they all will be the same so other than the pinion being a bit smaller on the higher number ones I don't see why not. In theory it should just be as you say, pick ratio, fit diff and go. Halfshafts, hoping to be able to use NA 300 stuff, as for converting to equal length, no idea. On the 230 one do you use 2 of the shorter shafts and the diff has a longer output flange on one side? Good idea if it does.

Nah, I like my cars twitchy and alive! Also, being NA there isn't the torque rampup ilke a turdo coming on boost so won't be such a big problem.

Cheers Paul/Dave. Did some digging too and as you say, R32GTR 4.36, but also Serena (GA16DE petrol) has a 4.66 R200! Think I may have to look for one of them, should be dirt cheap. In gear speeds: Stock TT, 7krpm 43,72,106,138,183 VH50DE, 9krpm, 4.36diff 47,79,117,152,202 VH50DE, 9krpm, 4.66diff 44,73,108,141,187 Not at all bothered about loosing top end, would gear it lower if I could. The 2l diesel serena in aus is supposed to have a 4.66 Visc LSD too. For R230, shortest option seems to be leader gears.

Think I'm going to put the R200 on mine too once its running. Other point is that quaife do a direct supply R200 ATB so you don't have to buy from the states at a premium like the R230 one. Anyone know what ratio diffs were in the 200SX? Be nice to get something mega short like a 4.4. NA TT is 4.1 so will suit my engine better than the 3.69 TT one.

I'd stick a fuel pressure gauge on there and see what you have. It's possible the reg was damaged by being connected backwards maybe?

Lol, easy done! Hopefully it's just that :cool:

Oh, I know nistune is good, I use it myself. What I was getting at was that if you couldn't get comms on nistune because the NVRAM was not programmed correctly then the ECU would run on it's hard-coded values (which are set for 370cc). Obviously this is not the case. Fuel pressure, yes thinking the reg is shot. Another possibility is that the fuel hoses are reversed so you have full pump pressure on the rail all the time (bit difficult to do on a Z with stock layout). May also be worth trying another ECU with a 555 chip just to check yours doesn't have bad drivers or something. Can you hear each injector click when running? If none of this works then maybe get them flow tested to see what you're actually dealing with, maybe they used the wrong drill!!

Have you checked the timing set properly?