John Dixon

Fuel pressure OK? Are you getting readings back to Nistune? I.e. is the daughterboard working OK and it's not running on default settings? Temp sensor OK? What K value are you using (should be ~205), is the latency set correctly for venoms, at idle, latency is a pretty big % of total duration, try trimming it. Is it rich right throught the rev/load range or have you just had it idling so far?

Charlie will do anything if you wave enough £10 notes in his face :D

Finish the conversion and get it running: Mount sump tank in boot floor. Run 2 1" oil lines front to back somehow clearing everything else. Run new fuel lines front to back Fabricate exhaust Find an alternator to fit Coolant plumbing Make air box + fit filters Vent bonnet Fit throttle linkage Run-in and map Hopefully get it done for the last of the summer but not holding my breath :rolleyes:

Christ knows! Having kids certainly eats into your car time!!! Working away lots too so not done much for months. Am moving it to a new workshop next weekend so hopefully that will get me going again. Very little left to do really, some coolant plumbing, oil lines to the boot and the air box then it should at least run.

New rev counter/oil gauge with flocked dash. VH45DE engine!

http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/bccatpartlist.php?make=Nissan&carcode=Z32B&intake=FI&category=interior

Happy birthday matey! Will get some time free'd up to look at your motor soon!!

Looks fantastic!!! Awesome quality work, congratulations mate, you must be chuffed :duffer:

Cheers all. Nearly forgot, with our first baby Erin Grace being born 2 weeks ago it kinda passed me by!!

Hicas ECU sits under the main ECU and has 2 white connectors. That's the cruise control ECU.

For energy suspension kits, the rear arm bushes are a seperate kit. It's not expensive though.

Have you tried Leon at Alunox to make the manifolds for you. He's in Wrexham and his work is top-notch: http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/5019645

Mike Feeney would be the man to ask, there's not much he hasn't seen, especially on the older stuff. I have a feeling the older VG30 were 12v though so the ports may be different - don't quote me on it

Yes. If you do race him, do it with your windows down, the sound is awesome!

Was in one recently and they are quick but straight line no chance, you'll kill him.

There's a roll-over valve in the vent line from the tank to the carbon cannister that allows the pressure to vent to the tank, as far as I know the cap valve is vacuum relief only. Worth checking that the valve is working OK and not stuck.

That's a great price including the droplinks :eek:

It will work with a chipped ECU as well, but they won't do anything you can't do just by remapping the stock ECU anyway. Have PM'd you off other thread.

I've got 2 brand new ones here, you can have them for £5+ P&P if you want? Bought them for mine but my rad is mounted differently now so didn't need them.

Officially for SVA I think there has to be a certain minimum distance between the fog and brake lights. Not sure how closely MOT stations check that though?

Absolutely, mine was terrible with the R34 callipers which is why it came off. Go to break late onto an apex and if there was a bit of loose you go sailing past with the front wheels locking then releasing.

It's not too bad to do really. For MOT purposes you have to remove the whole system including sensors. Basically: Remove sensors and make up blanking plates for the front ones so no dirt gets in. Remove rear sensors. Remove ABS unit and ECU for it. Note where pipes go through the bulkhead and the lettering on the unit. At this point you have 3 options really: 1) (Quickest) - Where the pipes went through the bulkhead, tee the front inlet to the 2 front outlets (just connect them together). connect the rear inlet to the rear outlet. 2) Remove all front brake piping from under the car and then re-run the lines to the front brakes in the engine bay, shortens the pipe run hugely. 3) As 2 but get a master cyl off a non-abs car. I didn't do this as wasn't sure what diameter they were. Also, I fitted some 1psi residual pressure valves in the lines to try and stop that pad knock back that all z's seem to have to some degree. As Ian says, you'd best let your insurance know, they will cover it as a modification.

Would guess just for manufacturing ease or that it's cheaper then buying thick walled pipe the right diameter. Having said that the whiteline bars are excellent, totally transform the handling of the car to the point where you have to learn to drive it all over again, front end just refuses to understeer and the rear is much more progressive when it breaks loose, loved them.

Because torsional stiffness is proportional to radius^2 so a hollow bar of slightly larger diameter is as stiff and lighter than a slightly smaller soild one. The extra material in the very centre of a solid bar makes relatively no difference to the stiffness but adds weight and makes it easier to manufacture.

Yeah,you could do the 6 speed but in a Z32 it makes the job much easier to use the stock box. Means you can keep the prop etc stock.