John Dixon

Bugger, sorry to hear that Maark. Have you sopken to Leigh (friday) on the off chance Mr Fukada can source a 2nd hand engine for you. He seems to be able to get anything!

James, how are you getting on with the Nitrons? You spoken to Pete again yet about the top mounts and clevis measurements?

Alex, I can put you in touch with the guy that's making mine. Works out surprisingly cheap. Also, you could do full length runners for very little extra cost, that one looks like a cut & shut of a standard plenum using the stock lower? Gets away from having to use sidefeeds then too so saves ££££ on injectors. Have designed it with Jenvey flange pattern too so gaskets / trumpets etc easily available.

Its more to do with better air distribution and less lag than xs area on FI motors I think. On NA with big cams like mine you have to run ITB's as it'll never idle on a plenum. Even so - 2x52mm (stock Z I think) = 4247mm^2 1 x 90mm (Q45) = 6362mm2 6 x 45mm (most common aftermarket) = 9542mm^2 Got 8 x 48mm on mine = 14,476mm^2 (see pic)

Merry Christmaaaaaas mate. See you in the new year :duffer:

Ash's results are meaningless without some thermal efficiency data to go with the flow data. Good intercooler design is a compromise of the two. You could make some that flow huge numbers but have useless heat transfer - like if you left out the turbulators! Spent a while having a tour of Pace's manufacturing facility a while a go, was really interesting to see. They are the only company in the UK who produce all cores in-house and can customise them right down to turbulator design, fin density etc.

£50! Or £75 if you want me to socket the ECU too.

One of the mustang shroud kits fits the 300 nicely can't remember what year though :smash:

You didn't know the guy from Guisborough I built a 16v 205 for did you?

Saw this on a Blistein before, did it break where the threaded part starts on the rod? Had just presumed it was bad fitting!

Hi Mika, will mail you tonight or tomorrow.

1st: VTC solenoids. Unless you have aftermarket cam pulleys which don't use them then you DO want them connected! 2nd: Stock boost control solenoids (switches safety / normal boost) disconnected OK if you have a boost controller fitted or not bothered about having safety boost function.

I'm probably going to have a single rear exit as the normal exhaust then a side exit tuned length pipe for when the bypass valve is active. With the TT running a side exit isn't going to leave much room to get a silencer of any sort in there and it will be very loud.

No point getting copper. Modern ali cores are more efficient and lighter.

Weights for ref: Bilstein non adj 4.8kg (fr) / 5.5kg ® Nitron 3-Way 3.6kg (fr) / 4.1kg ® one way about 0.5kg less.

OK, here are the pics of the first set of Nitron shocks. These are the 3 way adjustable for James.

Hi' I've not got any for 850cc but have a 740 one for TD05-16G I did a while back for someone. You could use that as a base and adjust the K value / latency for 850s, will give you something to work from at least.

I found more castor gave a bit more feel as you loaded it up, but anything less than about -2.5 camber and it would understeer a little in slow bends. Guess the tyre wear thing really depends how much you're talking about supposedly anything you would sensibly want to run on a road car will not cause it.

I'd reduce it too but it does mean buying new bits and I honestly don't think with parallel toe it'll wear them. Think in most cases on lowered cars people fit camber kit which then pulls the toe back in and hey presto no more tyre wear. Have spoken to a few suspension people about it and they all think that small amounts of camber will not wear tyres. What toe/camber were you running on yours? Found running parallel and -2.5 / 9.5-10 was best. Any toe in at all and it was just way too darty on initial turn it.

It's not that bad, I always run -2.5 and I'm presuming from the side to side differences that his setup is not adjustable. Most tyre scrubbing comes from badly adjusted toe, moderate static camber is absorbed by the tyre sidewalls and the tread sits flat anyway. Having said that, adjustable camber arms are a good idea to get everything equal.

Could do with a little toe in on the rear and the castor on front left suggests maybe the bush is shot in your tie rod but not too far off what I'd run otherwise.

They'll be the same as stock ones. Smithy does nice rose jointed ones for not much more.

Great isn't it! Can't believe they just gunked it when it blew. To be completely fair, its 904SS which is sort of 1/2 stainless so it would probably last a few years. The bends and welding are absolutley terrible though!

Yeah, one of the few real craftsmen around doing that sort of stuff. Should have seen the powerflow exhaust off the micra next to the one he did. There is just no comparison. Wouldn't trust anyone else to do this sort of work now.

No, the one on the Micra, divorced downpipe with several compound bends on it. Really good to see that quality of work being done. Can't wait to see my manifolds when they're finished, got 8m of 44mm OD tube to get in there!