John Dixon

The issues with dual intake are normally: Surging/stuttering around 1500-2000rpm on light throttle. Can be helped to some degree by shielding the filters from the incoming air. Idle control is not too good. Idle air is only taken from one intake pipe so the active MAF does not give an accurate representation of 1/2 the air flow. There are all sorts of pipework mods and stuff you can do to help but they don't overcome the other issue which is that the MAFs just don't work all that well at such low flows, they tend to be a bit variable. Should have the emerald up and running in Slick Pete's car early in the new year and the conversion kits available not long after. Used the emerald on loads of cars and always go back to it, does everything you need, is pretty cheap and the mapping/diagnostic software is the best of all the aftermarket ones I've used. Also the support of emerald is superb - small company so you always get to speak to the right people.

Yes it will, but it needs some re-wiring and chip mods. Prob best to see if you actually need it first.

Nistune does remove the need for the AFC as a fuel controller although it is still good on a dual intake system to average the MAF voltages. Single MAF will do ~500bhp.

Hi Ant, Yes, you can run a 740cc chip with single MAF etc. I can supply something as a get-you running solution so you can run the engine in if it's fresh built then map it later if you want. If you need to go dual intake then my advice is don't. Just bin it all off and fit a standalone. By the time you buy a second MAF and an SAFC you're nearly half way to the cost of a standalone anyway and you won't get the running issues of a dual intake. Nistune is excellent, I use it to map the stock system with, the problem is you're still limited to using the MAF's so you'll still have low speed issues. Cheers

OK for that one, cheers, I have the R200 on the floor. It's just the R230 that's still in the car at the minute.

Picked one up today off Chunk to fit to the ZX when I get a chance. Anyone done it and got any advice? Decided to go fo this as it's an R200 4.1 (same as NA) BUT has the same driveshaft flanges as the TT R230 so will take all the stronger running gear. Also, it's a plate LSD, not a viscous so should be a bit quicker acting (but hopefully be a bit more sensible on the road than the cusco 2 way R230 I have at the minute!) I've got an NA subframe so I'm going to try and transfer the TT hubs, driveshafts etc. across. I'm guessing I may have to make up some spacers for the shafts as the oultlet flanges are likely to be closer together than on the R230. Also, the nose on the R200 may be in a different place. Better get the old subframe off and start measuring! If anyone has an R230 and an R200 lying around together and fancies taking some measurements ...

Good! The website is very out of date about the ECU's capabilitys though.

Megasquirt - I'd tend to stay away. Not too familiar with them but last time i looked they were quite basic and relied on using ford EDIS modules which means binning the nice nissan coil-on plug ignition system. What we'll be doing is a direct plug and play on the emerald so if you ever sell the car you could put the stock system back. There will be NO butchering of the loom. Of course, if your loom is shot I could make a new one for the emerald from scratch but that's quite a lot of work. Once its done we'll put up some more info but briefly: Change CAS disk for emerald pattern (or will do exchange) Plug in conversion harness and emerald and go (base map supplied). ECU has 3 fully switchable maps (from dashboard switch) Boost control integrated Full closed loop fuel control possible with optional wideband. Traction control included. Nitrous control an option. Shift light output. Allows the MAF to be binned and run alpha-n or MAP based load sensing so no more single maf limit or all the problems that go with dual intakes. Fixed price mapping regardless of how long it takes. Hopefully we should have something at the start of next year. I have this system running in my V8 and must admit, the mapping software is fantastic, easily the best I've used.

I'm doing conversion kits for the emerald K3 soon, should be much cheaper than the HKS and will retain the existing engine bay loom and sensors etc. Will also allow you to hook up a wideband for full closed loop fuel control too if you want. Also, can ditch the MAF for MAP/TPS based load sensing. I wouldn't bother with piggybacks, more hassle to fit and just mess about with the signals from the factory ECU. Slick Pete is the first guinea pig. FYI, emerald ECU is about £700, the other bonus is that the mapping of them is very cheap, emerald will do it cheaper than I can get the dyno time!!!

Do you have dump valves fitted? Can cause very rich conditions when they vent off. Also, I leave the safety maps in so if det sensor has a fault it will run very rich too.

It was some sort of chemical sample bottle from my old work. Try http://www.carbuildersolutions.co.uk, pretty sure one of their washer jet or coolant tanks would do.

The rad cap also has a vacuum release section so that coolant IS sucked back into the system when it cools. Have a look, it's the smaller seat in the centre of the main seal. You can fit a smaller bottle in there pretty easy, I did one years ago, should be some pics on here somewhere. Main advantage is that it clears the airflow out the back of the intercooler.

Biggest issue with the Z I always found was launching it. Lots of anti-squat in the rear geometry doesn't exactly help with weight transfer and traction. How do the supra 60ft times compare with the Z?

Antony, I can just set whatever rev limit you want in the ECU! Oh, and Z is inductive igniton, not CDi

Yes, still doing chips.

Yeah, you'd have thought they would! They will do custom grinds if you pay enough, that's what's so annoying, it wasn't cheap. Not sure about the SR20, never seen one open. Once it's running again you're welcome to drop over, I'm actually moving to stourport in November. I think the lexus engine is a bit smaller too, saw one in the back of a mini a few weeks ago with a huge turbo on it. Scary stuff!

What he said! Except in my case it was piper cams :rolleyes:

Tell me about it! I heard what they did to yours, shocker. I'm just thinking of mine as a 'design iteration' :rolleyes: No damage done really, just a pain having to pull the engine again.

This will sort it, proven in the NZ jet boats and stock cars so should be fine. Think the base circle has prob lost maybe 4-5mm. Prob wrong to call them rockers, they're sort of followers that the cam runs on top of and the lash adjuster and valve are underneath. It smashed through the cover because it fell off and got caught by the cam, not because of the extra travel. Lucky escape really!

OK, turns out it's not the cam timing, it's the cam grind that's off!! Lesson learned: With this sort of valve train if you decrease the base circle of the cam then you have to increase the valve stem length too or the rockers fall off!!! Hence the low power reading, only 8 inlets opening! New cams and 32 extended valves on order now. Bugger. Bugger. Bugger. At least the rockers didn't jam something up and snap the timing chains. One did come through the top of the rocker box though!

Just engine / turbo spec, injector size, auto/manual etc.

Email me on JohnDixon300@blueyonder.co.uk, can sort out an ECU upgrade for you no problem.

Can't see the pic at work but the small notch in the chip should point towards the middle of the ECU

Mike Feeny has done 8's in a 280zx with big block chev a good few years back. Wouldn't have made much of a road car though!

I did think about knocking up a new controller for mine if I needed to with the MR2 pump and stuff using something like an arduino processor board to give a PWM signal out to the solenoid. As it was, I just stuck an NA controller on (and hacked the wiring) and it feels pretty good. May still do the board at some point and see what difference it makes to adjust it.