John Dixon

It's been nice to be involved in this one TBH, all done nicely and a real gent to work for, should be awesome once it's set up properly. Even on the base map it just rips up through the revs, throttle response is very much better than any other VG I've seen.

Can't believe it mate! Absolutely gutted.

Congrats Andy, great news :D

Yes, 555cc injectors, coolers and a chip to suit or re-map should get you where you want to be quite easily.

Cheers :blush: Must admit, I'd have done it just for the noise. Will get some vid at 9000rpm, sounds mental, max in the vids is prob 5500

No prob, look forward to hearing from you. Yeah, it will read max 600 on the wheels. You're right, it was a 300hp dyno but has had new brakes fitted etc. so now will do double that.

Looks like MXL is supported, Emerald manual extract: AIM MXL configuration Using the AIM Race Studio 2 software select ‘System manager’. Retrieve the current configuration from the AIM dash by clicking the ‘Receive’ button. Click the ‘ECU manufacturer’ entry for the current configuration and set to ‘AIM’. Click the ‘ECU model’ entry for the current configuration and set to ‘PROT_CAN’. If you wish to change how/what data from the ECU is displayed on the AIM dash click the ‘System configuration’ tab and set accordingly. Once you are happy with your channel/display settings update the AIM dash by clicking the ‘Transmit’ button. Refer to your AIM manual for detailed information. This is from the old K3 manual so would need to check with Karl for the K6 but I can't imagine he'd have removed it. Cheers

It does have CAN capability and supports some AIM dashboards, not sure which but I can find out for you. MXL does sound familiar.

Andy, we'd sort of taken the decision not to issue a price list until after the VAT rise, seemed daft when it would change so quickly. Base system includes K6 ECU, CAS disk, conversion harness and air temp / MAP sensors & plugs. This gives 3 switchable maps, traction/launch control (after XMAS - software in testing), boost control including safety cutoff etc., full throttle gearshift / anti-lag, VTC control, gear dependant boost control, user configurable outputs for anything you want! Options are: EGT sensor Wideband Lamdba sensor Display for Lambda Boost control solenoid Driver circuit for NOS control I'll PM you my number if you want to chat about it. Cheers

To be honest mate I've just used the arduino playground stuff: http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Learning/Learning

Yes as it uses one of the emerald functions to do it. Could probably knock something up using an arduino or similar if there was demand

As part of the emerald conversion on my car, Pete's and Martin's I'm going to remove the steering ECU and replace it with one of the Emerald's output channels. On our cars it's mainly to tidy up the foot well and free up some space really. Got me thinking though that as the PWM tables switch with the maps it would be possible to have different steering maps for drift / track / street etc. Anyone think this would be useful? Was thinking for drift it might be best to have more assistance so you can get the lock on quicker or reduce the assistance on track for more feel.

You could put 2 wideband units in there then if they have simulated narrowband outputs then the ECU could use them but costs £££. To be honest its not worth the hassle if you're not going to use it for tuning given the cost. The ECU does not use the sensors for much anyway, just looks at mixture under lean conditions and calculates a correction which is then applied across the operating range. Not full closed loop control or anything. If you want a decent system then techedge are good. I'd steer clear of innovate, they are not very accurate and the outputs are sensitive, AEM is OK but does not have a differential output which is a bit rubbish for the price they charge. As it is, what you have will give broad indication and should be resonably repeatable, just not accurate once away from 14.7:1

Just don't rely on them for any accurate readings except around idle. Narrowband O2 sensors are next to useless much away from stoichiometric mixtures.

Pleasure mate, nice to be involved in the project and dealing with such a gent too.

Don't use the 8mm silicone for fuel or oil :eek: It hasn't got a high enough pressure rating and is not compatiable with fuel anyway, you can get a fluro lined version for petrol but better just sticking to proper fuel hose.

You can take a set off some stock seats and use them as a basis, did that for my cobras then just welded some cross braces onto them, drilled to suit and job done.

Porsche GT1, 205 T16?

Probably 7s would be fine for that. BKR7EIX gapped to ~0.8mm should be fine

Depends on what's been done to your car but 8's are way too cold for a nearly standard Z. With stock turbos and stuff stick to PFR6B-11B

The screw next the the LED just holds the pot bracket. As Eric said, some don't have the pot, seen loads like that, nothing to worry about.

If its OK off boost but not sparking on boost then suggests that you have a spark, just not strong enough to jump the gap at high chamber pressure. As taff said, try gapping the plugs down to 0.8 - 0.6mm. Its odd that its only one plug though. Check all the wiring and connectors are good to that coilpack and that all the PTC connections are clean. Would have thought it unlikely to be the PTU its self as its OK off boost and its more or less just a switch. Did you try changing the spark plugs around? Could just be a bad plug. Best bet is if you can find someone with an oscilloscope and actually scope the coil and see what's happening.

As I said, really hard to tell without doing comparisons. Obvious things to look for if you can see down the cores are any blockages or remaining flux - can look sort of like sand, any misalignment between the rows if its bar and plate construction etc. The only real way to tell would be to do back to back tests measuring differential pressure and temp across each one. Think someone in the states did a test looking only at diff pressure but by its self that's meaningless, you could produce a core with no turbulators that would have very low DP but would have useless heat transfer, the design of any cooler is a compromise between the 2 if the volume is the same.

Only way to know really is do a back to back comparison or check for obvious blinding etc. As for makes to avoid, I think the one that was almost completely blocked was technosport or something similar. As a general rule, anything from china, taiwan etc. is usually pretty bad or if it just seems too good a deal!

Thought this was worth a mention as seen a few now. Basically I guess its just a case of you get what you pay for. Have worked on a few cars with ebay I/C fitted where they have been a bit disappointing performance wise. Having investigated have found that the cores on the coolers are partially blinded by bad manufacturing processes so the pressure drop across them is huge. Had an extreme example recently helping out a member over the phone, car wouldn't rev over 1800rpm with no load as the core was so bad!! On top of that, if you pay £200 for a cooler that costs £800 from the likes of Pace then you can't expect to get the same performance, they're just badly made copies with the cheapest available materials, turbulators etc. Same goes for radiators. When I had the core for mine made they were in the process of benchmarking some competitors rads using an F1 car unit as a standard. My core was something like 95% whereas some of the popular big name ones were way down on that, closer to 75%.