John Dixon

http://www.sparkplugs.co.uk - part no is BKR8EIX

Good luck. Sorry I didn't get time to fit you in, never enough time!

Yeah, pretty sure there's more in this. There were 2 problems on the dyno, firstly the spark was blowing out above 18psi even with the coils fully saturated, hopefully new set of plugs gapped down should help with that. Secondly, intake temps started to go through the roof and boost fall off at high revs - thinking this may be manifold related as the bigger cams should pick it up if anything. We'll have a play with the new plugs and see what happens, looking at the torque figure of ~500ft-ibs mid range you can see there should be more peak power there typically but maybe the stock manifolds are that bad. None the less, good set of results for 18psi. The figures on there need about 30bhp subtracted due to the way their rolling road operates, it used to be a 300bhp model and is now upgraded to 600 but the software doubles everything including the run down losses. Will be interestign when we run it up on Dale's dyno so we have a true comparison with the other cars that I've done on there. All being said though, conversion is good, idles better than stock system, is running 2 apexi filters on 90deg bends for minimal restriction and has all teh bells and whistles that we still have to set up (traction control, full throttle shift etc.) Cheers to Baz for being the TT guinea pig too :thumbup: hope you do start enjoying it again mate, its a lovely car.

I meant its more consistient TO map on a modified engine. In the stock ECU there are many little things going on in the background that you really can't adjust that it can be quite difficult to get it exactly right on a heavily modded car. A typical big build with dual intake etc. will certainly run better on the emerald stuff than it would on stock, no issues with MAFs. A mostly stock car wil not be any smoother than running on a stock ECU but you do benefit from having proper fuelling control if using wideband so you can get a little more economy wise too.

Looking forward to getting it done too Martin! Have a base map oddly off a very similar spec swedish Z that made 680bhp @1.7bar so should be a good starting point for yours. Joley: Yes, it eliminates the need for an EBC, ECU can manage that too. Mapping only needs to be carried out when you make any major changes to the car really. Cons: Obviously it costs something to buy and fit. Pros: Easier and more consistient to map than a stock ECU. No MAF sensor so gets rid of the hassle/cost of dual intake on big powered cars. No need for seperate EBC No need for seperate Traction Control Full closed loop fuelling if wideband lambda fitted. EGT feedback as option 3 switchable maps Fixed cost mapping at Emerald - cheaper than dyno hire alont from some places. Many other functions such as full throttle gear shift, gear specific boost control, auxillary control for Nitrous, intercooler sprays, exhaust bypass etc etc.

Got the first TT setup done today :clap: Many thanks to BazzaJG for taking the plunge! One minor (and smokey) issue at first because I read the terminal numbers wrong on a relay :xxx: but other than that pretty smooth really. Fittment took about 6 hours total but prob lost an hour with the first issue then a good while trying to find the boost solenoid wiring which had been very neatly tied out of the way. Also converted the CAS today as didn't have time to do it in advance. I reckon anyone with basic skills could do it in a day easily. The actual ECU is plug and play but you have to mount MAP sensor, air temp sensor etc. too. I'm doing a full installation manual to go out with any supply only units. Anyway we went as far as getting the car setup and idling on the Emerald then took it back off for the drive over to norfolk for mapping - hopefully in then next few weeks :thumbup1: Lovely car, another Phil (ex CS Woods) job - all his stuff is done to a really good level of prep, never any clips missing, pipes out of place or anything. Can't wait to see what it'll do on the dyno now.

You need a gauge. Best just stick to a stock regulator, no need for an adjustable generally and you just end up messing around to set it to stock pressure anyway.

Hi Dave, Prob best to call him, he can have the whole lot shipped to you cheap as he runs an exhaust business so gets good deals on carriage. He has all the parts including trim. Its Leon, 07811196727 Cheers

Hi Dave, He's after £750 for the whole lot: Gearbox All spacer plates and bolts Flywheel Newish uprated clutch (~£300) Pedals Clutch booster and hoses Propshaft Shifter Linkage + Knob He's ready to sell it anytime really, still on the car but only a day to get it off at his place. Cheers

No, he would be stripping it out and selling all the parts off.

A mate of mine in Wrexham is selling one that is still in the car (minor front end crash) but it still moves so you could try before you buy? Its a complete setup including an uprated clutch.

As above, you can run 2.5 bar(g) boost on the 3.5 bar sensor. In your case the 5 bar is theoretically a disadvantage as you will loose some resolution although in reality you would never notice.

Congratulations mate! A bit of tweaking and you'll be on the road hopefully we'll both be ready for the drag challenge next year. Those 2 side by side down the pod should make some pretty nice noises :scared: The glowing manifolds also often when the timing too retarded - the mixture is ignited too late and still burning when the exhaust valves open. Usually if very lean it will spit back too.

If any of you guys in wrexham need some parts a mate of mine based in Llay is breaking on up there. Got some nice parts on it - ohlins suspension, white leather SWB interior, boost controller etc.

You'll do 8k with forged rods and pistons, I wouldn't try it on a stock engine. Power always falls off before that with stock cams anyway. Stock injectors are limiting on the rev limit too, not to mention that the turbos will run out of puff!

What I meant was that I had the fuelling pretty much flat 12:1 and the timing at the maximum available - when you tune each load site you basically add timing until you make no more power (MBT or Minimum best timing), there will then be a small area where you increase and get no gain, then det and bang! Mine was right on the edge of where you get no more gain, on other peoples cars I typically stay 2 degrees away from that. Problem with being close or on MBT with full power lean fuelling is that a slightly bad tank of fuel or dip in fuel pressure can have you going into detonation. For other peoples cars I prefer to leave a margin as I don't want to cause any damage - I've done literally hundereds of chips and probably 20 300's on stock ECUs on the dyno and nobody has blown up yet!

Nistune is the same system I use, its very good. You don't need to leave the daughterboard in there. I just have an ECU with it fitted that I map with then burn the image to a chip and fit that to the car, saves the customer the cost of the board. Most I ever got from mine before I pulled the VG30 was 350RWHP @ 1.1bar (before V-Power) but it was absoutely marginal, I wouldn't have tuned someone else's car like that.

There are some slight differences in the maps but either will be OK. Only way to tell for sure is to run the part number through nissan FAST system and see what it comes out with.

Its an advantage in as much as you get the extra features like full throttle shift, switchable maps etc. If you don't already have a boost controller then it will do that too so you will have better spool up. In terms of power you will gain a little over a re-tuned stock ECU as you can ditch the MAF / Tee piece and run twin filters but it's not going to suddenly find you 50bhp over a well mapped stock ECU

Yep, but have found a source for them eventually. As I have a pile of NA Auto and faulty ECU's I'm not likely to need any time soon I'll use them until they run out!

Got the conversion loom done for the first TT now. Just waiting on the ECUs arriving :)

If you are using a wideband bosch sensor then it will be too hot there and you will get sensor overheating errors.

Yes, what you have described should be fine. DON'T leave the restrictors in place though! The whole purpose of the breather system is the vent the crankcase blowby gasses and prevent the crankcase pressurising up and blowing oil seals etc. There is a surprising amount of flow required to keep the pressure down.

IMO the best way to do this would be mod the rocker cover to have to top takeoffs as shown then use those as your catch tank feeds - as mentioned that should limit the amount of oil going to the tank. Blank off the PCVs and ALL the other associated pipework including the ones at the front of the rockers which will just be causing an un-metered air leak if you have an atmospheric vented catch tank fitted. Essentially all you are doing is seperating the crankcase from the intake system then venting the crankcase to atmosphere. Ideally, get a catch tank with 2 decent sized inlets and a large outlet. You really want around a 1/2" hose off each rocker minimal if you're venting to atmosphere. Also, pretty sure some scrutineers insist on tank >2liters for engine >2 litres. If you pipe the outlet from the tank under the car then the smell shoudln't be an issue.

JWT Sport 530's are about the best IMO. Coupled with good manifolds and downpipes you get ~500bhp with similar boost threshold to stock and less lag. If you want to make up some adapters and stuff to save some cost then the actual turbo is just an off the shelf Garret GT2554R