John Dixon

Some of mine on here: Sounds better now with the modded air box as you get huge induction roar too :D [YOUTUBE]w3hLQtXRAqU[/YOUTUBE]

Leon is still on the case with the 2+2 cages but he's been snowed under, he has the jig done for the SWB and 1/2 done for the 2+2, will be getting back onto it I think when he comes back from holiday. If anyone else is interested shout up and I'll give him a prod.

Oh, it's bedded in OK but have an issue with the cam timing. Think the VTC is not man enough to advance the cams properly so all the power is below 5k rpm then falls off a cliff! Need to lock up the VTC and time the cams in properly when I get a chance. It's great to drive though, telepathic throttle response :D

Skyline has lower gearing too which will make a pretty big difference.

Looking good, not long now mate.

Somehow managed to miss this thread. Congrats mate, nice work and looks like it paid off :D

Yep, that's it. Well worth the cash.

One other thing I found made a big difference was to change out the rubber 'donut' coupling 1/2 way up the shaft in the engine bay. It looks like it's actually designed to give a small amount of slack in the neutral position, presumably to isolate road noise. I made up a solid s/s replacement for mine years ago and it did improve the feel a lot. I think driftworks sell them too.

I can never understand why there is so much s**t talked on this subject over and over again. As Jeff says, the majority of issues come from badly built / setup engines being mapped before they should be or from just a bad mismatch of parts: big turbos on stock manifolds, badly designed dual intakes, leaking cheap dump valves etc. etc. Probably the biggest single issue is bad boost controller setup then the car mapped like that. I've even seen dyno graphs where the boost is like a sine wave at the top end due to too much gain! At the end of the day, mapping is not black magic, its SCIENCE. For any given engine condition there are 2 parameters: AFR and timing. THATS IT, you just have to set them up to make best power or economy at each given site and maintain a safety margin within the engines limits on EGT etc. An engine properly tuned for best power is safe if minimum best timing and sensible is run. A car properly set up on the dyno will perform as well as it possibly can on the road as long as the map has been fully done. Ultimately the feeling of flexibility and smoothness on the road comes from having the max power available from the engine under all conditions. The only exception is possibly very big turbos or cammy motors where you might soften the delivery a bit. The biggest issue is that most RR operators will tune the max power settings and not worry too much about the mid range stuff or the low end stuff that you can map static - customers go away happy with the headline number and that's all the max power boys want. It's easy money. To completely re-map a Z on every speed/load site takes about 3 hours, to optimise only the full load stuff is about 20 mins max. There are advantages to aftermarket systems, particularly ones that allow you to do away with MAF, add an intake temp sensor etc. but most of the benefits come from the useability as much as anything else - they're designed to be tinkered with, the factory one isn't. That being said, the factory ECU is very good. With respect Jeff, my chips are not really much like JWT at all. OK they look similar but then all maps for a given spec will! I maintain the safety maps, JWT don't I expand the load scales, JWT don't, even on some of their big turbo maps. This means that you run the same timing and AFR numbers for almost 1/2 of the turbos operating range!! Most of my stuff is significantly leaner at the top and richer in the middle than JWT. Most of my stuff runs more timing than JWT If you look closely at a JWT, most of their primary fuel maps are a stock safety map with an enriched top end. See attached pics: JWT on left mine on Right - both for stock(ish) Z - not too similar after all.

Oh, and the squeak is sorted now too, was pretty annoying.

Eclipsed: Brief spec: VH45DE overbored to 5l, bespoke slipper pistons, 12:1CR, bespoke H-beam rods, copper haed gaskets, HLA converted to solid, besopke cams 280deg at 50' 70/30 30/70 timing when VTC on, bespoke individual throttle bodies with jenvey trumpets, heads ported by CTM, valves back cut, custom air box (Alunox), alunox exhaust manifolds (44mm ID x 1000mm primaries) merge collectors, 4" exhaust with silencer bypass :) Emerald k3 ECU, bosch 440cc type 3 injectors, stock nissan COP ignition, NGK BKR7EIX-11 plugs. Clutch is an ARP paddle with fidanza flywheel- not the nicest to use but holds the torque no problem. Vinz: Cheers mate. Didn't use Thor, use my mates dyno in Telford. Nick: No, not had time to do anything else yet. Have developed a missfire I need to pin down first and not had a chance to look at it much. Did discover the cams weren't changing over though so that should lift the top end a good bit, effectively was running with 20deg retard on the inlets.

Hi mate, will reply to your email tonight. Cheers

Yes mate, give me a buzz on 07843 368882

Replied on your PM mate.

Cheers, thought the GTST was a 4.1 too. Looking into the possibility of the R32GTR diff as it has 6 bolt flanges like the R230 and is supposed to be a stronger unit. It's only a 4.1 though. May just try it first and see how it feels.

Been thinking that I need to change the diff in the car now as the R230 feels a bit long geared for the V8, just been looking at the numbers. With 9000rpm limit, in gear speeds are: 56 / 93 / 137 / 179 / 234!!!! Obviously the 5th one is theoretical. Going for the 4.1 gives 50 / 84 / 123 / 161 / 214 Hoping I can maybe find a 4.4, any ideas?

2nd time now I've had some small parts for nothing but saved me a load of hassle :)

Will see what I can do! Maybe get one on the dyno next time, try and catch the induction noise.

Noooooooooooo :wack: Not with 12:1 compression anyway!! Seriously though, you don't need it on this. It's quick enough unless you want to do serious drag racing or something. Its odd how NA horses feel about twice as big as turbo ones.

Happy birthday Vinz! Must be telegram from the queen time :D

Nice, he always does good work.

Rev gauge jumping about prob means bad CAS to be honest as it's what generates the RPM signal, have you got a spare? Failing that, hook up conZult if you have it and see what the CAS signal does as the problem starts. I can send you another ECU as a swap out if you want but I don't think it'll be the problem. DOH! SOrry had only read first page when I replied!

Sorry gents, been on hols this week. Am trying to sort some dyno slots at the moment but keep getting sent away to work so is difficult to fit everything in! At least now mine is running that's one less job. Will have a word with the dyno guy this week and see what availability is like in the next few months.

Combination I think of V. high compression (~12:1), big overlap cams, tubular manfolds and the trumpets on the ITB's.