AndrewG

Later style fuel rails require maching to the lower plenum to fit.

Sure, my original post has the details (just scroll down a bit):

I see that Z1 have two TT lightweight flywheels - a MK1 and Mk2 version. Which one did you go for?

Is the problem here that the ring gear is machined into the flyweel rather than the seperate Nissan ring gear that say RPS use?

You will need an adapter kit to mount the later (pintleless) injectors. JWT make the lowest profile C clamps which make it easier to remove/replace injectors once the upper manifold is in place. You can get the kit from US suppliers, eg: https://www.specialtyz.com/300zx/jwt-injector-adapter-kit.html

As the 06046 is sold as an OEM replacement clutch which will therefore work with a stock flywheel I can't see why it won't work with an aftermarket TT flywheel (lightweight or otherwise) that is machined to the same dimensional specifications as the stock TT flywheel. Provided both clutch and flywheel have been properly balanced seperately then they should work fine together.

Is this the model you bought (06046)? https://shop.exedyusa.com/exedy-oem/exedy-oem-replacement-clutch-kit/06046/i-125789.aspx

Why? what reason was given for needing a complete clutch and flywheel?

Irrespective of the colour make sure the container states the antifreeze is Ethylene glycol (and not the Organic Acid Technology - OAT variety). The two types do not mix together and OAT should not be used in older engines which can be damaged by OAT (eg seals and gaskets).

Sorry Chris, I can't make that date.

10w-30 is light (the 30 bit) for a TT engine. I have used Mobil 1 5w-40 and now 0w-40 synthetic for many years in my UK spec without problem. Others members have used semi synthetic successfully. Info from the FSM:

This is a guide to seal replacement: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/tech/caliperrebuild/caliperrebuild.html

There's the rub - who knows.

Chafer grub: https://gardening.which.co.uk/hc/en-gb/articles/115000658109-Chafer-grubs

One of the best threads on fixing corroded Z32 steelwork - required reading.

You Essex guys certainly know how to push the boat out!

Wonder if the choccies themselves are Zed shaped?

You want to post a picture of what you are dealing with?

Never mind that, the Army wants to go green! I would have thought death anxiety for the crews would be much more of a worry. https://nationalinterest.org/blog/buzz/british-armys-next-game-changer-weapon-electric-tanks-92941

Here is a full write-up for you Chris which includes repairing the headlight aiming gears. H-L_Disassembly.pdf

Except that the gutter sealant is black (vs OEM grey) and will almost certainly show up through the glass. This might do the same job though: https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-lead-sheet-sealant-grey-310ml/21594

You don't need to split the headlight. This is the method I used: http://www.zcar-owners.net/cgi-bin/diy_bbs/cbbs.cgi?mode=al2&namber=25&rev=&no=0 You can also clean the rear of the projector lens using the same technique.

A few pictures from the best Club stand to date. The whole thing worked so well - Ian you did us proud! Howard your Club number plates and signage were icing on the cake. It's all in the detail...