AndrewG

Have you got a multimeter for reading resistance? In the meantime, check the sensor harness in the wheel well for signs of damage. BR-25.pdf The whole thing looks like this:

It's a 2.2uF capacitor, part of the rear wiper circuit (see red circle below). For the 3rd brake light, you will need to run a +12v supply from the rear o/s brake lamp back up to the tailgate hinge through the rubber concertina for the existing wiring harness and down to the 3rd brake light. You can earth the lamp on the rear wiper motor earth.

Being of a certain age I find myself watching Antiques Roadshow. This is a segment from this Sundays's program - It is incredibly moving and a poignant reminder of the sacrifices made during the war. https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p08cltgj

The underbody (engine/radiator) trays at the front of the car do have an important function in getting the engine (and turbos) heat out and away from what is a hot running engine. This page is from the Road and Track guide to the 300ZX and provides more information.

Is the electric aerial working?

I should have included this to help. All Nissan's circuit diagrams follow this standard for wiring colours. Also, follow the diagram for (Europe) and (R) - RHD.

This is a circuit digram for the Power Door Lock system.

Here you go Art. Front washer +ve is LG/B, rear washer +ve is LG.

Congratulations Captain Moore! https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/tomswalkforthenhs https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/av/uk-52488385/captain-tom-moore-celebrates-100th-birthday

For reference these are the bits in a 60K service kit: https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-infiniti-czp-oem-60k-timing-belt-kit-nissan-300zx-z32-13001-0xx60_p_3850.php and for 120K: https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-infiniti-czp-oem-120k-complete-timing-belt-kit-nissan-300zx-z32-13001-0xx12_p_3849.php Provided the cambelt pulleys are running smooth then you don't really need to replace them at the 60K service.

I was going to suggest https://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk/ which many of us have used. But I see they have a stop on Nissan parts at the moment dute to CV19. If you can't source in the UK see if CZP in the states can ship to the UK (again used by many on here). Normally orders get over here in a few days, but CV19 may affect that. BTW I would always use OEM parts (part #'s shown): https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-infiniti-nissan-oem-timing-belt-nissan-300zx-z32-13028-45p86_p_1029.php https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-infiniti-nissan-oem-water-pump-assembly-nissan-300zx-z32-b1010-22p27_p_965.php

Welcome to the Club and thank you for your support Alan. Best wishes for your Z32 journey!

Your '95 (with the VIN you sent me). I've updated my earlier post to correct it with your info Andy.

By the book: el-87.pdf

Diagram is washer configuration for an earlier JDM SWB (with tank in boot). Note that there is an extra front pump (but no tank) for the front washers.

Washer reservoir in N/S/F is radiator expansion/overflow tank.

The reason is that the position of the heads of those two bolts (with all the gubbins that is near to them) makes it very difficult to get to them with socket and then undo (as you will find out). Slotting makes it much easier to secure them back in position by positionng them underside and then winding them back up from the top with a screwdriver.

As the front side indicators (and rear indicators) are working, I would concentrate your efforts on the engine compartment harness that feeds the front indicators down each side of the car (see el-126). You can see that the side indicator connections E1 and E15 are spliced off the harness which then continue each side down to the front indicators connectors E8 and E40. I've attached hi-res copies of E-69 (the wiring diagram) and el-127 engine compartment harness. You said that you changed the front bumper, did you change the indicator/side lamp assemblies as well? el-69.pdf el-126.pdf

Power only gets applied to the aerial when the Power Timer Amplifier wants the aerial to go up or down. It does so by changing the current flow direction to the aerial. If you hook it up to a 12v battery and it goes up, then switch the leads to make it go down. Disconnect harness as circled below. For safety put an inline fuse in the +ve test lead. If the motor works then the problem is further up the circuit.

Just a couple of things to add. Take great care when removing (and refitting) the headlights with the bumper in place to avoid scratching the paint work on the bumper from the two front fixing studs (as shown below). Masking tape layered up on bumper upper edge can save many tears! Also slot the inboard rear fixing bolts on each headlight (with a hacksaw). It makes life *a lot" easier to refit those bolts the job next time (you still need to take out the bolts out the first time to cut a slots in them though). .

For reference: Front bumper bar removal.pdf https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissan300zx-z32-headlight-removal.html

For aftermarket (upgraded) clutch: http://specialtyz.com/blog/?page_id=178

Thanks, from your experience when they list a part are they actually able to supply? My normal supplier is showing NLA. I'll make an equiry with Amayama and see. https://jp-carparts.com/nissan/partlist.php?maker=nissan&type=132&cartype=&fig=240C&page=1&part=2401153P60

Yes! I did, thanks for pointing it out. I was looking for a 24011-53P60 ('94 later injector) type.

As far as I can tell RHD engine harnesses are NLA (from Japan or elsewhere). I've been looking for one. That leaves LHD OEM and aftermarket (Z1, Wiring Specialties) from the US. LHD engine harnesses will fit RHD cars with a bit of extra harness length tucked up in the engine bay or the passenger cell by the ECU. *** Corrected my senior moment! ***