AndrewG

Did you read calculator notes? "Note: multi piston calipers express their values using one HALF of the caliper body. This accounts for the floating aspect of the single piston caliper. A six pot caliper would be 1.625/1.125/1.125" for example."

Who is going to give you permission? How do you or anyone else know the "original" VIN (on a piece of paper?) is the one that matches the removed VINs on the car? Without a VIN you have no record of the history of the car - was it stolen or written off in Japan. The VIN was removed for a reason. Did you import the car yourself or through a third party?

If you take a look at the notes for the calculator in the link I posted earlier for the purposes of calculating F/R bias with multi pistion calipers then 40.5mm x 2 = 2574 sq mm = 3.99 sq ins. Try the calculator, I used it for the AP F/R setup I have.

By the way the piston areas for the various calipers quoted in the your image posts above are way out. I've highlighted the offending figures for the Z32 front caliper (the rest are the same):

ConZult can perform diagnostics and tests (including air mix, outlet and intake-doors) on the Auto AC system.

Ian, do you have the "HA" (heater and AC) section from the FSM?

Sorry for the delay in replying. I can't find the original reference from Greg@SZ I was looking for but here is the text: "I have never had a issue with running as much as 8000RPM with the stock coils. The reason you want a tighter gap for higher boost is because the plug is harder to fire with more pressure for the spark to have to jump across. Higher RPM's requires a better coil than lower RPM's because the coil has less time to re-energize. I have a antique coil tester that shows the spark across a gap on the machine, the machine has a knob you can turn that simulates higher RPM. You can watch the spark go away with most single coils for American cars when turning the knob. When you use a 300zx coil, you can go all the way around and the spark never goes away ;-) (We have 6 coils and they have 1) I have tested really expensive Mallory coils that blow out easy. The stock 300zx coils are amazing." http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=317045&highlight=split+fire&page=2

Begs the question as to why the VIN plate was removed. As it would appear that silver sticker was applied after the VIN plate was removed what does it say?

If price is not an issue why not just stay with the Porterfield R4S pads even if it means sourcing them overseas?

Halfords satin black?

Unless you are planning very high boost levels stock coil packs will work fine.

If you collect the various values required (see calculator notes) you can come up the F/R bias of your new setup. http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/bias-calculator/ By way of reference, for stock calipers, discs and pads below the split point of the proportioning valve (498psi) the brake bias ratio F/R is 2.1/1 and above the split point the ratio F/R is 3.0/1. The proportioning valve is built into the master cylinder and reduces the hydraulic pressure exerted on the rear caliper pistons relative to the fronts when you apply pressure to the system above the split point. If you like, between light/medium braking and heavy braking.

Simon I can't make this as it clashes with an event here at the Kenley aerodrome. Would have been great to meet up again with him.

All I can offer you is the 'RS' section from the '96 FSM which includes the handling and disposal of airbags: rs.pdf

The pressure applied depends on the size and therefore area of the pistons. For example, a two pot caliper with the same total piston area as a four pot caliper will excert the same pressure on the pad. What size are your pistons?

The important part of the caliper/pad fitment in relation to the disc is to position the top edge of the pad level with the nominal disc outside diameter. How does it look on yours?

An old thread I know, but safety first. The '96 FSM covers the Airbag system and safety precautions when handling the airbag assembly - in particular not storing and handling the airbag in the "face down" position. In the event of accidental deployment it would turn the steering wheel into a projectile, sending it up towards the person handling it. Additionally, the two pins in the airbag connector can be shorted together to remove the chance of an electrical (static) discharge setting off the airbag.

18th September would also work for me. Time for a new thread?

http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/926468/You-need-the-NA-sensors-gear-to-swap-onto-the-TTs-sensor.html

It will be on your VIN plate located near to the bonnet latch.

Good-bye-ee! good-bye-ee! Wipe the tear, baby dear, from your eye-ee. Tho' it's hard to part I know, I'll be tickled to death to go. Don't cry-ee! don't sigh-ee! There's a silver lining in the sky-ee. Bonsoir old thing, cheerio! chin chin! Nah-poo! Toodle-oo! Good-bye-ee!

So is propane OK?

Indeed it is Dave. Just wanted to give you some reading on the subject!

http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2609521/LEAVE-IT-ALONE-Its-dielectric-packing-for-insulation.html

No need to keep cutting back, just scrape with a stanley knife or use an abrasive stick to remove the tarnish.