Terry

Was not impressed with injectors but was more happy zed was going again lol, Dont know about zeds never tried it but only put tiny bit of fuel in as some engines may try to lock up piston comig up valves shut no where for fuel to go but get compressed, Would defo check cambelt, When i put my engine in, the big pipes from the turbo to the front of car, the ones that are underneath the 4 pipes on top, one of these was not in place properly and it sounded like a misfire or down on couple of cylinders was looking at all the injector plugs and coil packs, couldnt find nothing wrong with injectors or coils found pipe off put it back on and it run fine, Gonna see if i can borrow some money off my nan till end of month, if she says yes and you want i will come down, Could do with a day out messing with a zed, had enough of mine its boring me lol.

No problem mate just pm me anytime, If i wasnt so skint at the moment would have paid the fuel myself and sorted it out with you, but i just aint got it, Worked on a few zeds too, manual conversions, turbos both sides with the engine still in, rebuilt mine from bare shell, so not to bad with a zed, May have a spare cas in garage too, have a look in the morning but im sure i left it on my old engine, if i have one just cover the postage and you can have it. Was so exited to get it started again ended up scrapping old engine and even forgot to take 555 injectors out remembered about a month later, gutted. lol.

Just looked at maps its 100miles each way, as said before if you can cover fuel, im up for it and van may even be a bit cheaper then £40.00, and aint doing nothing tomorrow mate, just let me know.

Hi mate if you wanna cover my fuel in my astra van, i bring my cas, im a mobile mechanic by trade, So should be able to help if its the cas you can have mine, and find me one if you like to replace mine. Only problem is it might cost around £40.00 in fuel,

Just read previous reply, looks like groover as allready said this but an easier way, Told you was not great with wiring lol. sorry.:oops:

Hi Mate, Wiring as never been something im great at but this is what i would try if i thought my wiring was dodgy, One side of the injector connector should be live and stay live even without engine on. The other side should be a signal (trigger) So if you use a voltmeter and find one side is live, The other will be the signal (trigger) use a volt meter (and a longer piece of wire if your volt meter wires wont reach) and put it on the signal (trigger) wire on the injector connector plug, then take off the ecu and find the wires which go to the ecu connector: looks like: 101 (w) for cylider1 and 110 (wg) for cylinder2. on the wiring diagram, Put your volt meter on beep mode, Touch one side of volt meter to injector connector (and the added wire if it wont reach) and the other side of the volt meter to the ecu connector 101 (w) and 110 (wg) If it beeps you know the problem aint the loom, If it dont beep shouldnt be to hard to run 2 new wires. or find the break in the wires. Hope it helps you,

When the overdrive is off gives you engine breaking, and dont go into overdrive which seems to be like an extra gear,

Im sure the hold button makes the car pull away in second gear for the winter, And the power button is sports mode, but when you put your foot down the power part comes in automatically so no need to push it.

power and hold functions on the jap models,

On them new spacers did they come with their own spigot part what goes into the wheel where the plastic spigot ring goes round or does it still use the original 300zx one, Maybe when the wheels were last on the wheels were more in the centre, Tried putting them on before without spigot rings you end up having to lift the wheel why tightening the bolts, cause weight of the wheel makes it drop. but they never seem right unless you have spigot rings, most decent wheel shops will not refit wheels unless it as the spigot ring,

I also drove the prelude to spain and was bouncing off the limiter a lot lol. all it did was cut out and slow down a bit then go again, never damaged it and was allways hitting it, Shouldnt damage the zed just wil stop for a second then go again on the prelude use to feel quite harsh though when it just cut out, and then shot off again.

Hi mate, Not sure on the zed But use to have prelude vtec, limited to somwhere between, 180-190kmh - 112mph, I converted that to mph with the special box you buy, It removed speed limiter. but done other strange things, the way it works was confuse the ecu, so it would still be limited but instead of 180 - 190 kmh it would be 180 - 190 mph, but on that the vtec didnt work to say over 40kmh but now it was in mph couldnt get 40mph in 1st gear so lost vtec, and maybe it messed with everything else controlled by speed, So could mess up hicas and other things, Sure you would be better getting uk clocks and uk ecu or chipped ecu, Someone will come along if im wrong and say but im sure their a straight swap, Well mine is jap spec shell and i have uk clocks and have had no problems, Goodluck mate.

You need to measure the inner bore the (hub) and outter the (wheel) never used hubcentric spacers but by the sounds of them they will give you a new hub as such, So differant to standard zed size hub, Hope you sort it mate, Maybe the place where you bought spacers will know their size, And a good alooy wheel shop should know the size of the wheel, We have a place called elite tyres in dagenham, maybe if you have somewhere like that where you live they should be able to help you. Goodluck mate.

Hi mate if its the spigot rings inside the wheel are missing or not the right size for new hubcentric spacer, you will definatley get vibration, And on the motorway may even go and come back as the wheel moves around on the hub, looks like you have more then one zed is it worth borrowing wheels of another zed, and trying car without spacers then atleast you will know its wheel or spacer related. Have an astra van and fitted clio wheels which bolted straight on but the centre bore on clio wheel is bigger then vauxhall so needed spigot rings, tried it without spiggot rings and the steering wheel was pulling left/right constantly then could go round a corner and would almost stop then next corner would start again , Standard wheels back on and van drives perfect.

Cant pm vodkashots, so please could you call me urgent, thank you. Sorry if breaking any forum rules not sure if im allowed to do this,

Take it your a mechanic too, Goodluck with scuffed oily hands that never get clean, It must be the worse job in the world but i love being under the bonnet of a motor. God knows why.

Have not done one for a long time normally avoid them now cause work for myself and they make me worry to much, when done them in garage sure never use to get bolt and had to measure them, maybe garage was just buying cheap kits or something, But that would of been the best way new bolt, is that all the kits or ford original,

Hate doing focus cambelts, the bolt is a stretch bolt too, have to measure it, Even when i know i have done it right still worry, why not just put keys on them, Dont know if you have ever tried it using the starter but its allways been fine on zeds and done quite a few.

My way of cracking the crank pulley bolt (easy way) lol, I use a breaker bar, turn it fully clockwise to it touches the ground and flick the key, only a quick flick then check, normally its undone, but if not another quick flick, until undone, Allways works 4me, Now i will wait to be told off, lol. I do this on most cars (mobile mechanic) When i cant use an impact gun, Just make sure the car you do it to, as keys on the pulleys, Otherwise its all over, A guy did it in my uncles garage on a focus, not only did he bend valves one snapped and went through the piston,

If its turning over really quick, id say its either flooding itself and washing oil from bores leaving it with no compression, disconnect fuel pump relay and turn it over and see if it slows down and turns over more normal, if i does then i reckon its not fireing right fuels not igniting and washing bores, Or the cambelt may be turning, but may have jumped teeth, If you cant check cambelt maybe its worth taking to zedworld and not messing with it no more, Cause if its the fast spinning over im use to when a cambelt as gone, could be causing loads more damage, Or just go all:taz: on it strip the cam cover off and check the marks, Goodluck.

Sorry thought it was yours, but yours must have a better engine and i bet it dont go over speed ramps like my landrover/zed. But it does look great.

Also Your car looks great in your pic makes mine look like its running landrover suspension,

Just read another thread about the ecu, think i run it normal and get another chip done, Zedworld,etc. Would i still need to have it checked on a dyno, Thank you 4 the reply.

Hi, Anyone else using a central 20 ecu, I have one fitted and was playing about with car today, Took it up the road [private] and it revs to just under 9000rpm and was just under 90mph in second gear:shock: Wont be reving that high anymore sounds horrible, Take it they remove all rev limiters on this chip, Anyone else have any info on what else they do to them, The chip seems to make a lot of differance in performance, even without raising boost it seems to rev and respond a lot better to the standard one, When i Put the standard ecu back in it feels more sluggish and not as smooth, Anyone know what psi i could roughly run with this chip, do you reckon 14psi will be ok. Thank you.

When you say whirring noise does it sound like its spinning over really fast, Sometimes when a car is flooded they spin over really fast and the sound can be similar to the noise you would get when a cambelt as snapped, Check everything at the front of the engine the 4 main turbo pipes and wiring to ptu and cas, when you undone the gearbox mount the engine would of layed back a bit and may have pulled something off at the front, Try unplugging the maf see if it starts then, but it will only rev to i think around 3000rpm. Done some work on mine few years back and cut out wouldnt start again unplugged the the maf sensor fired straight up, new maf and was fixed but thought it was something i had done and was looking at everything i had touched. If it is spinning over fast and not flooded check cambelt :scared: Really hope not. Shouldnt have to touch timing on conversion, think the difference in timing between auto and manual is with the neutral switch, when you put the car in gear revs raise a little, without the neutral switch when you check timing will be reading 25degrees btdc, {May be wrong on that and sure someone will say if i am} It wont be nothing to do with timing unless you touched it. will run with manual or auto box. Goodluck hope you sort it mate