Terry

cheers guys, had a few beers and and a quiet night in,

gently tap starter with an hammer while someone turns key, if its sticking may release it, goodluck

hello mate if you need manifolds im sure i have a pair in shed i may have elbows too, you can have them for free the only problem is getting them to you i would post them but dont know how much it would cost, if you need them let me know and were sort something out,

what happened is i took the engine out of a 500 pound breaker that smoked i bought for a manual box, i put the engine down the side of my mums house and never really thought about it, until one day i thought i should rebuild that so i started to strip it down found a set of 555 injectors,stage2 turbotechnic turbos, ross forged pistons, but where i had left it down the side of mums house water may have got in the engine and marked the bores, but i think what the guy is saying its allready been rebored before as it allready had the pistons in it, and he cant go no further with the honing, so the mark is still slightly their, its only on the back2 cylinders, what im starting to think is that the marks might have allready been their cause the guy i bought the car from said he had the engine rebuilt and replaced turbos and the car still bloody smoked, he bought a noble gto and sold the z to me at the time didnt care if it had or hadnt had stuff done cause only wanted the gearbox, but he must have been telling the truth and wonder if these marks gave him the smoke, it also had blitz dump valves and hard pipes and what looks like pace side mount intercoolers,and tein suspension looks like the car had some money spent on it in the past, the only reason i took it to the machine shop its in now is because its just round the corner from my house and when i worked in the garage he use to do all machine work for them, all the parts including gaskets and machine work including heads comes to around 1000pound, i know him and did 2 services on cars for free for him too, was that an ok price as i have never done an engine for myself before so have never paid, i bet i made the wrong decision, and at the time didnt know who did what on the forum, otherwise if i knew i would have had someone like jimmer do it, just expected it to go in and come out fine lol, suppose if i find a block let him rebore and hone to size then it will be fine, thank you,

do have the bolt and nut if you send address i post it to you mate,

id get turbo out and then change manifold and only at a last resort pull engine

thank you 4 your replys and i look into it,

the way he said to do it is get another block and he will clean rebore and hone for less then 200 pound but he needs a standard block, i gave engine to him he measured everything and bought the parts, bloody nightmare nothing goes to plan lol, im struggling with money at moment and i reckon new pistons would cost a lot, are the ross ones any good will they last as long as a standard new engine if kept at a reasonable boost, thank you 4 your help,

it could have been 88 mate. he said they were oversized but didnt listen that great cause i just wanted to put it together, sorry i should have wrote more clearly pistons were in the block with water marks b4 just replaced rings when he honed them couldnt get rid of water marks,

hello every1, went to have a look at my engine today its in a machine shop, having it rebuilt with forged pistons,acl bearings, but have a problem his honed the bores and he cant go no more and some water marks are still their, everything else as been done he said the crank is fine heads are fine, asked him if he would put it back together like that he said his seen worse run, but in his honest opinion if im keeping car to get another block, the pistons i have are ross and he said their bigger 87 or 89 i cant remember now was more annoyed cause i couldnt put it back together, what i really wanted to know what would use do would you chance it or get another block, if its get another block as any1 got one what could be bored out to leave no marks, or is their a best place to get one, thank you,

hello mate, once the turbos are out should be easy to change manifold, what side of car did manifold bolt snap,

loosen the alternator belt and see if it taps in, does look like the bolt for the alternator if i remember rightly its at the top of the alternator, so the bolt would be above the alternator,

if its the long one that goes right through it as a type of wing nut on the back that locks itself in place, you have to get under car to see where it comes out, if it as worked loose i think i have a spare one you can have for free, i have a look later and let you know, mine came loose and fell off i drove around for ages without it but every couple of days had to loosen belt push it in and retighten belt,

hello mate, i changed hicas rack on my car, and for a while afterwards steering kept going light to heavy [as i was turning steering wheel to go round a corner it would go heavy then light] i pulled one of the plugs off the hicas ecu in passanger footwell and it stayed heavy left it about a day and its been fine since, all i can think is it had air in it even though i bled it or where i put new fluid in it their was loads of little bubbles, hope you get it sorted,

hello mate, and goodluck, my mate from round the corner posted on the forum how he bent his spanners, i looked at them the other day, his name is [ cbr ] i found his name and looked at all the posts he had done and they came up, thats the only way i can find them [not to great with computers] i didnt bend any spanners, drivers side,i removed = master cylinder, steering link, it makes a lot more room, i take all the pipes off including the big black ones at the front of the turbos, get a socket on a couple of extension bars and tap it on the nuts to unfold the metal tabs bent over the nuts [may need a long flat head screw driver use that and tap it with an hammer if the socket wont do it] passanger side=i take it off with the manifold, theirs 1 manifold bolt that i couldnt get to so i loosen the 4 bolts on the side of the turbo housing which allows the inlet part to swivel seperate from the exhaust part of the turbo, i then tap the inlet part down so it gives me enough room for last manifold bolt, i also take the radiator out gives me more room, to unbolt the big black pipes at the front of the turbos join aload of extension bars together and go right through with them from the front where the rad was, [when it comes to putting the black pipes back on theirs a gasket and its fiddly i used a little bit of grease to hold it in place why i got the bolts back in] also remember to order the 2 gaskets for the oil returns at the bottom of the turbos, and i blew the oil feeds out to make sure they were not clogging up, and goodluck again mate,

think thats some one saying that they could do it in 1 and 1/2 hours, the price everyone i know like my cousin and friend got quoated from local garages is around 500 to remove and refit, my uncles garage is 47.50 an hour labour and by what people say coming into his garage is cheaper then most in dagenham, i have a look on autodata what most garages would go by and see what it says in hours,

yeah they shouldnt have touched anything mate, take it back and ask them why,

what they removing anything for, to do an mot, as far as im aware their not to remove anything not even hub caps on the wheels to see if studs are broken,

where abouts you from mate, if i can ever help just pm me, i know about cars thats my living and enough to get by on zeds, thing is i only know how to work on standard cars dont know much about modifications, thats definatley when specialist should be involved,

if their the same size and shape turbo, shouldnt be a problem but if their bigger or needed some kind of modification might get a little tight, i think my turbos are bigger but inside their stage2 turbo technics and turbo technics reckon their good for around 450bhp but i have never run over 12psi so couldnt tell you, if you want an upgrade may be worth looking into upgrading in a similar way, that way you know their gonna go back in.

thank you 4 reply, i dont think their that bad, fiddly and time consuming, do you do it the same way, worse bits them bits that crimp over the nuts,

hello mate i pm you, i help you do it for free if you can get it to dagenham,

it would take me a full day, and can see what your saying with taking engine out, but if you had turbo failure and everything else was running ok, you could go the otherway and cause more problems taking engine out like broken wiring connectors,loom,etc, where their brittle and old, which would all be more money, i think if funds allow you should take engine out replace everything but most people i know with z's are on a budget, in a garage i think you would be looking at = if you bought set of turbos [mine are turbo technics stage2 and paid 500 pound each to recon] say 500 pound to remove plus refit engine, then probally another 100 to fit turbos to engine, thats 1600 pound without replacing anything else, to me thats every penny i earn for a month, you could probally buy 2 known good used turbos 300 pounds an halfords advance tool box 200 pounds and an hard weekend on your back and have it done and still have the tool box for any other things in the futre,and 1100 pounds in your pocket, all you need is a little patiance and if things get hard and you start getting stressed go in doors have a coffee relax for 5mins and you will be surprised what a clear un stressed head thinks of, thank you for your reply,

hello every1, just a question to see what people think, i have fitted a couple of sets of turbos to zeds with engines in, but everywhere i read they say the drivers side is almost impossible, but i remove the steering bar and master cylinder and i find it fiddly but not that bad, i find the passanger side is worse i have to undo 4 bolts on turbo housing which allows half the turbo to spin round so i can get to the manifold bolts and i drop the turbo and the manifold together, a lot of people say you shouldnt do it with the engine in the car, but in the manual im sure it says to remove them with the engine in the car, i may be wrong though, and may of misread it, my trade is a mechanic and when i have done them i have had an headstart as i had access to a workshop with ramps, air tools[air ratchets] and i think the biggest help is quality tools, they just seem shapped better and dont slip, little spanners and ratchet spanners help a lot on a z too, as anyone else done them and found them not to be as bad as they thought, as anyone else got any views or advice they might like to give as it may help someone else with not a lot of money but dont mind getting dirty and smashing their knuckles to bits, if i couldnt work on my car myself i doubt id have it now because its hard enough to afford to get these cars how you want them without paying labour bills,and id be gutted to get rid of my z, it makes you happy when you do something yourself exspecially when you save the ammount of cash that some garages charge and a lot of us who dont do a lot on our own z's probally know more then them about z's anyway goodluck to anyone who as big akward dirty knuckle cracking jobs to come,

i check that when i next work on it, these cars can be a right nightmare, love the car running, love to work on it, but it seems to not like being disturbed to work on, maybee its telling me to leave it alone, thank you every1 4 help