Terry

You mean put the targas on wondered why their was so much wind noise lol, Had a look today centre bearing looks fine, but one thing i did notice is their is a lot of play diff end if i twist prop left and right, Is this normal on zeds, i get a slight clonk if i come on and off the throttle Quite hard like slack it the transmission somewhere, Maybe the play diff end. Also got in the passenger seat to have a listen (which is quite scary by the way makes you realsie how quick they are again when you aint in control, seems you get use to the power) and seems the whine/drumming i have is coming from n/s rear wheel so gonna have a check around the wheel bearing tomorrow,(have a spare hub). And gonna pull the dash out and all the door pads off and find every rattle and squeak, So hopefully by tomorrow have a nice smooth quiet z, (bet it ends up worse lol) Cheers 4 reply.

Thats the problem with my central 20 ecu they have completly removed it the fu@kers, it will just rev and rev till it goes bang lol, Has you say they normally raise it not remove it completely, cheers 4 replys mate.

Hi guys more questions lol, sorry. Replaced rear shocks new nissan, old ones didnt have no gas in them they just pulled up and down. and replaced inner and outter hicas joints, No wonder the car handled like crap,state of joints and shocks. Well its now a differant car handles great hits bumps without throwing car all over the road, But its still not like my last z, it seems really noisy by that i mean road noise and wind noise, Took it out tonight and give it a run on a private road, and anything above 100mph is to be honest horrible all you can hear is wind and road noise,theirs no wind coming in the car you can just hear it, Theirs also vibration with the noise not bad but its defo not smooth, the vibration and noise is funny cause it almost sounds like the noise from a helicoptor a type of chopping noise, Its not the sound you normally get from a wheel bearing, im thinking prop or rear diff, Anyone else got or had anything simillar, My uk z i had before was more like a jag or bmw no rattles inside no vibration just nice quiet and smooth whatever speed it was doing, thanks guys.

Sorry guys thanks for your replys, thought it was the bearing in the pump that had failed again, and jammed the pump snapped the belt so took my new pump and belt to fit them, turned old waterpump the other night was making grinding noise and jamming but was dark, today it was fine - exept the 8mm socket i had lost was behind it lol, well atleast it was an easy fix new belt done lol, Try not go anywhere near 8000rpm anymore but has their aint no rev limit at all, if i am giving it a bit of stick and rear wheels loose traction by the time you have realised and let off the revs have raised quite high, was just worried it could be that making pumps fail, revs proberly aint even going that high but its stupid has theirs nothing to stop it so your constantly watching to make sure you dont hold it to long. Thanks again everyone.

Cheers mate so tomorrow gotta work out if i have the big one or the small one on it, And gotta hope if i do need the bigger pulley to slow it down the jap spec belt will fit,

Hi guys, My waterpump has failed couple of times lately, used second hand pump, But it keeps failing since i put a chipped ecu on it (central 20) and im starting to think it could be something to do with the raised rpm limit, Held it in 2nd once and it went to nearly 90mph and not sure exactly has it was a while back but somewhere between 8 and 9,000 rpm, Obviously i aint holding it that far anymore but if your in 1st or sometimes 2nd and you power it up and it spins up, i have noticed before i have had time to let off the revs have raised pretty high, cant really watch revs to see how high more worried about if im still going straight or round in circles lol. Got another pump coming (new) lol, And what I really wanted to know is i have both uk and jap spec pulleys for pump, what one slows the pump down im thinking the bigger one but i may be wrong anyone else Know for sure, Also is it the uk or jap spec car that has the one that makes it go slower, cause have ordered jap spec belt from z centre and i know its gonna be the other i want its allways my luck, my car is made from a jap spec and a uk car, I restored it with the jap spec shell and do you think i can remember what bits i used to build it up - hell no ???. Any help appreciate thank you.

Hi mate, I have cut the front part off, Heated them up and knocked them out before, Done mine few days ago again but this time used a tool from work, and came out easy, still cut front off has couldnt get tool in straight has driveshafts were in the way and used tool to push them out backwards, Theirs a thread on here using a pitman arm search for pitman arm and it should come up, Also used some heat from blow torch, Little buggers though good luck

Cheers think rose joints or whole arms would suit me best, Dont wanna chance poly ones knew one of them had problems just couldnt remember which ones, Thank you...

Hi guys, Think thats what their called mine are dripping slime all over my drive, Whats the best ones to get (anyone got any standard ones) Really want ones that aint gonna pull the front of my car off, cause their to stiff lol, Cheers guys...

Think if i get them i will only get the outter ones, they seem to look ok in the pics, they do seem cheap though, cheers for replys everyone.

Cheers guys, That was the answers i was hoping for, but was expecting dont touch them thier a load of .... at that price. He seems to have inner ones too, for £20 so for £80 plus postage you could change the lot. Thats not much more then one outter or inner original. Thanks again.

Hi everyone, Was looking at the outter hicas joints for a 300zx on ebay, And just noticed theirs a guy selling them for £20 buy it now, obviously their pattern parts but have a 1 year warranty, what do you guys reckon worth a try, or leave them well alone, Thank you.

Just priced up a job in chelmsford audi tt headgasket, should find out in morning when im doing it, So if you like take head off audi tt send it to be skimmed and come round to you, i live in kent now so chelmsford would be closer to you. Let you know tomorrow what day im doing tt and let me know if its any good for you.

Hi mate as long as they come on would have thought they would be ok, the mot station i use to work in would pass it like that, But suppose you only have to get a jobs worth inspector and he will fail it, Even the reflectors in the rear lights could be a problem but i bet most inspectors wouldnt take much notice in them, again where i use to work they would have gone through, Probley best to run it in, if it fails quickly chuck your other fog light on, People ask me a lot to pre m.o.t cars but i dont bother the way i see it you only need a funny inspector and their be ringing me saying you checked it over, whys it failed, Goodluck with your test mate.

You F@cker i was hoping for some proper fault finding lol, Great meeting you today, Cheers for the fry up, Fresh eyes and not frustrated is sometimes all it needs mate.

they Let the adder go in the hospital grounds lol, when i come out the next day the nurses were all sitting on top of the benches with their feet where you would normally sit. When you looking at doing it mate, And were sort something out mate.

First time i got drunk was on White lightning, Yuk. made me sick as a dog never touched it since, Whiskey and stella now.

Forum is dead soooooooo bored lol. Bloody jae or everyone is out on the p:censored:s.

I lay on my back with head near engine and legs towards back of car, slide gearbox up on my belly and legs, lift with my arms and knees and you can look up and see between engine and box see how its lining up its heavy but not to bad, but make sure you get it slid right on and dont let it hang on the shaft, once you have it half in you cant give up until its in, once you undo gearbox mount engine will fall to roughly the position you want, Where are you in essex pm me if you get stuck mate.

I normally use normal axle stands for front and trolley jack under diff, only jack back up to turn prop to undo top bolts on prop, then drop it again, I can do it easy in 3-4hrs laying on my back, tea and fag breaks too. Remove: 1,battery terminal, 2,exhaust, 3,starter motor, 4,slave cylinder, 5,heat sheild, 6,gearbox mount, (use trolley jack hold box up) 7,gear linkage, 8,drain oil from box, 9,undo 2bolts holding prop up (take note of 2 thick washers) mark prop with tip ex pen where you split it in the middle then undo 4bolts, may need small crow bar or strong screwdriver to split prop. 10,undo all wiring connectors on box ( should be 3: speed sensor, neutral switch, reverse lights) 11,Undo all bolts round the bell housing, (top ones with few extensions to go over the top of box ) one as an earth strap. 12,box should be ready to come off I get underneath the box and drop it on my knees and chest, if you dont fancy it use trolley jack. 13,undo clutch pressure plate bolts, and your halfway their. Then its reverse order putting it back, i also undo the 4big turbo pipes at front of engine lets the engine drop back a little makes it easier to slide box back on, had one before where had to jack the front of engine up a little with piece of wood and jack to get more clearence at the top of box, and remember them prop washers and your mark, and new gearbox oil,( i put the prop back in so dont leak out, and refil with oil why box is hanging down a bit before you jack it up and bolt mount on, easier to fill unless you have a pump, Goodluck mate.

lol ment when it comes back up with spring it will settle at the top where the shock should raise too. Whenever i have had them not returning to the top the car seems to bounce more then once.

They should definetly come back up on a zed, and other cars never seen one that dont and fit shocks a lot. In my opinion thats the main point of them so when you hit a bump they push straight out to bring the car back to its natraul position,

As everyone else as said if you push the shock right down and it dont come straight back up, their :censored:. Sometimes they are a bit moist around the top under dust cover, where they have leaked. I would buy new shocks and use old springs if they look in good enough condition, Or if funds allow new shocks and springs, And would have thought if you aint changed the rears they will be just as bad or worse so would change all 4. Maybe them meister r ones, i would have thought they would be a similar price to standard shocks and springs all round. Or kyb shocks and eibach springs.

sending pm mate