Terry

Hi guys, 2x led problems lol, The 1st is i have the lambo style lights on the rear but wanted to know if anyone knows where they just sell justthe actual lights as i have the panel allready seems most rear light conversions use the same lights, and i see a coach with them too. The 2nd if i convert my dash to say blue leds, how do you go about changing the digital numbers on the air con pod too. Any help appreciated, Thank you.

Hi mate, Think i saw your car the other week, as it got little lights on the corners and nearly takes the rd up lol. Looks great. coming from sheerness towards halfway, Where do you live on the island, im in minster.

Bit off topic but as your talking about top gear, Dont no what they were doing but top gear have been filming where i live on the isle of sheppey, And the new release of The sweeney. Loads of big bangs and gun shots lol. The warden bay hotel car park was full of film crew vans.

If its been leaking should be easy to tell wet line normally running down servo, And paint bubbling up, around the area below master cylinder. Mine is leaking from a little hole in the side of cylinder between brake pipes as what looks like a ball bearing in the hole. replaced seals, which i bought from big red and made no differance. New one from nissan around £250 ouch.

My car does this, if i use it every day it wont use a drop of brake fluid, but if i park it up for a while the fluid in my pot drops, and it leaks on to manifold, And it as really pi@~ed me off cause i stripped my shell to nothing painted everything including engine bay and master leaked and took paint off, so i have got to buy a new one and somehow re paint engine bay.

The bulbs go one way round mate, i think one side is round and one side is square, Fiddly little f@#kers.

Was it the right one lol, done a few head gaskets on bmw, thats the only vacum hose i can remember being in a crazy place, Hope you sorted it mate.

Hi most motor factors can order them, or ebay was cheapest. but i paid 12.50 a bulb at local store for h3c, And they popped again, On ebay they sell an h3 hid kit for around £35 bought that and it seems great, much better lighting and seems to be lasting well and the kit was only £10 more expensive then the 2 bulbs i bought, If it goes wrong i just buy another kit but so far lasted longer then the bulbs, The standard bulbs on my car seem to blow very quick and i think it because i live on an unmade road.

Just looked on google and this is what someone else said.... if you reach up under the manifold almost at the fire wall you will feel a vac port sticking out Think he explained it better.

I am Sure the other end of that goes behind the inlet manifold, Its hard to explain but Top right hand corner on pic, Between Bulk head and inlet manifold but its down the back and hard to get too. Sure its normally a really long vacum hose that runs sort of under the fuel rail - manifold. Its been a long time since worked on one so could be wrong though.

Mine as a standard clutch and they seem to need replacing every 6months lol. Bit more power and driving hard. But one thing i can say is its easy now replacing clutch, Got to the point can do it in a few hrs taking it easy too with a couple of coffee breaks. Everytime you take it off it gets easier, i quite enjoy doing them on the floor too. I work as a mechanic and compared to some of this front wheel drive crap thats about dropping subframes and things their quite nice to do. To be honest anything rear wheel drive seem ok, transits, bmw, their all good. Some of them 4wd systems can be a pig too, at work we had one of them new volvo jeeps come in, crank seal gone, that was a pig expecially as it was for a seal, Once its done your love it again, Thats what i keep saying to myself anyhow.

Sorry yeah friction plate seems we all call them differant things lol, I wouldnt say it cant be cause its new mate, i have bought new parts for cars and been faulty. I had a new friction plate on my zed actually brake up, the black part broke up, but must admit it was a standard one and i do drive mine hard, it probally had couple of thousand miles on it.

See i know all these cars are differant but i converted mine to manual and used a pipe from master to slave, (seems like you have too) And it has never been a problem to bleed. Have you tried undoing bleed nipple on slave and filling up master cylinder and pumping with nipple undone, what i sometimes do on brakes is put my finger over bleed nipple when they lift up pedal and seems like it causes a suction and pulls fluid through. Had a prelude few years back and it was a bit of a pig, the brake master went, so i got another and couldnt get it to pump straight the way i think wedged pedal down left it half hour with nipples open, And it was good after that.

I know you shouldnt really do it but if you remove the slave off the box completley and put car in 1st gear and turn the key it will jump off and go, if you then touch the throttle and it starts to slip, then its something in the box, if you dont fancy doing the above, while someone is pushing the pedal, get down by the slave and see what its doing, try pushing the fork back while somebody is pumping the pedal and feel if it has any movement, maybe theirs something on the pressure plate gone wrong and fork is pushing to far forward while trying to bleed it. I may be wrong but if pressure plate aint pushing fork back properly your pedal aint gonna come back properly. I would say its a problem in the box, centre plate, pressure plate or fork problem. Goodluck mate.

Mine does this sometimes, but mine is the teeth on the flywheel they are worn a little,

sent a pm mate.

Cheers guys 4 all your help i will find problem, when next in london will try some coils but cant see all 6 being knackered and the 1 i have spare but you never no with a zx. Gonna check o2 sensors tomorrow, And try get fuel pressure checked. tps set to 0.45, Had 2 ecu,s. Done a boost check which was quite shocked with cause made it out a nescafe lid and tyre valve. but can pump air in, leave it like 30seconds pull a vacum hose and it releases air, so its really air tight seems no leaks at all. Never thought of earth, check that too maybe use a jump lead as an earth strap see if things get better.

lol, if the plug is on the engine get a perfect spark out the plug, But if i turn the coil upside down with plug in it facing upwards and touch body of coil on engine do get some arching through body of coil instead of through the plug, But can get all 6 to do it, so either they have all failed or its normal. And have 1 spare coil has i chucked the rest and that does it too. Which i put in and tried on each cylinder and have now lost the misfire and holding back when driving, but still have the backfire, Really i could do with driving to london to my mates and trying all 6 coils from his car, and he as that consult system on his laptop But its 50 miles each way and 2weeks to christmas i aint got £50.00 to Just waste in fuel so wait to after christmas and if i aint found problem i will go see him and if that fails i will have to see jeff. Cause im lost.

Hi mate cant be anything to do with bleeding, if you took the slave off completely and put it in gear, then it would be in gear,It would not make the clutch slip. The slave is for when you put your foot on pedal takes it out of gear, Slipping must be worn centre plate, Or maybe something on the clutch fork, Was the clutch kit new. Good luck mate. Sorry just seen its new all new, Are you sure you aint bent the centre plate, does it go in gear with foot on clutch pedal. Or is their no pedal at all.

Its just a Bloody motor lol,I think it just wants to be the centre of attention. I set the timing to 15btdc,And tried another cas, The coils i checked them all over by eye for cracks then pulled them 1 by 1 and put another plug in. The sparks all seem good but can get arching through the plastic shaft part on them all if i put spark plug in the air and casing bit near part of engine, Thing is its not really a misfire anymore its just making a backfire when you blip the throttle to 2100rpm and then let it drop to tickover and i can get a feel for the throttle so it does it at the exact point everytime, just like a gun the bang is really loud.Other then that its really smooth. Idles great. I will do an o2 sensor test in the morning, see how they are working and post up.

Hi mate changed afm and ptu no differance, as far as im aware will run rich with no o2 sensors, But if you have a faulty one can cause problems with ecu and cause it to mess around, So unplugging them for a run up the road would show this, but have the same problem plugged or unplugged. Cheers for your reply.

Cheers looked today all seems good with the loom. Been looking at everything the last couple of days and cant find anything wrong, Changed a coil and have lost the hesitation under load its driving great now. But still have the backfire in neutral when i rev to 2100rpm. Have actually noticed it does this when driving too. But does not do the backfire at all until its warmed up. I think the air regulator on these cars must work like some sort of choke was wondering if this could do it, And only other thing i aint checked is the fuel pressure cause dont have the tool at moment. Maybe its just me being fussy cause it drives fine, but it never use to do it and and on the run down in gear from 2100rpm you can feel the car jerk back and forwards very slight as its popping. Unplugged o2 sensors made no differance, Oh well suppose i should be happy it aint smoking and its running. Cheers 4 all your replys guys.

Hi mate, converted it to manual then re shelled it using manual car, so have all manual loom, neutral switch seems to be ok cause when put foot on clutch and put it in gear revs raise a little, Ecu is twin turbo and fuel pump was working fine just started playing up. Thank you.

Hi jeff fitted it my self, left everything on it turbos loom the lot acctually unplugged the loom from the ecu end on both engines and plugged it back in at ecu end. Even used ecu from donor car, when fitted it was running fine, Mines a 1989 and pretty sure donor was a g reg too.

Hi sorry may have miss wrote that its 15btdc roughly in the centre, but didnt have the light until today and turned the cas yesterday fully anti clockwise to advance the timing and it gets better so thought it could be cambelt issue so pulled cambelt put it back on using marks on belt, then set timing 15btdc but get popping and backfire but if i advance the cas to its max i get popping but no loud backfire, but its set back at 15btdc and its done it with both ecu,s. The only other thing i was thinking about what i have not messed with yet is the varible valve timing solenoids anyone ever had a problem with them.