Noz

I posted the OEM timing map showing the area of active knock sensing a couple of years ago, basically high load below 3200rpm, which is short of peak torque even at stock boost. It's very basic in execution, adequate for your average owner of a brand new 300zx with a standard engine & set up. As for a blanket "get rid of your knock sensor" approach, it should be based on a car-by-car basis.

Standalone ECU for proper knock control. OEM system a waste of time, the sensor however is fine.

With a wideband, yes. Well, it's the only way to check the fuelling properly.

Unplug the O2 sensors & measure the AFR on both banks at 2500rpm. If they are almost equal (probably around 13.8:1, with the driver's side being slightly leaner than the passenger side), then there are no issues in the fuelling. Reconnect the O2 sensors and measure AFR once again at 2500rpm. this time it should be around 14.7:1. If that is the case, then there are no issues with the O2 sensors.

There is no advantage to a piggyback ECU on the 300zx, the standard ECU is fully mappable. It was probably fitted due to your '97 Zed having a 16bit ECU and the prior owner/tuner not knowing how to map it.

Hello & welcome! There are 2 types of FMIC, the Autobahn knock-off of the HKS item is probably better. You're right though, there aren't any available on eBay based on the brief look I've just had. Don't bother with BOVs. Thanks for the kind words :thumbup1: With regards to BOVs, I've not run any for a couple of years. 1.7 bar on stock turbos and no issues. Same as on all my high-powered cars, from MR2 turbos to GTiRs.

Having recently worked with a Zed with brand new OEM sensors where one had all the response of a stoned slug, I'm firmly of the opinion worrying about O2 sensors is a complete waste of time :laugh:

07725 886170

Yup, Jimmer @ PowerZed is not far from you at all and the place to go. Does it have an Emanage or Unichip fitted?

Your name's not brown, you're not coming in.

Don't use boost jets, they're a waste of money, incredibly outdated and not adjustable. If you insist though, buy some welding tips in the UK for a couple of quid. I am biased as I manufacture & sell manual boost controllers, but there's a reason I sell them and not boost jets :) Turbo-wise, it really depends on what you are after from the car. I am a massive advocate of pushing the stock items as the torque response is truly out of this world. 481lb·ft @ 3900rpm with Auto turbos (AR 0.56) peaking at 1.7 bar. Do not bother with the GTX line of billet-wheeled turbos unless you are prepared to spec the engine to handle and be able to produce 2+ bar of boost pressure from the turbos. No need for HKS BOVs.

Great stuff :) 1. Jaffa 2. Noz 3. Iangreenfield 4. (adl)phoenix 5. Slick Pete 6. Mikey 7. Bobgenie 8. Chandler93 9. 10.

^^ This

Nice little list coming together: 1. Jaffa 2. Noz 3. Iangreenfield 4. (adl)phoenix 5. Slick Pete 6. Mikey 7. Bobgenie 8. 9. 10.

Won't make a difference, they're only stamped with the Nissan logo for JDM/rape tax purposes. As long as the part numbers are the same, I can't see there being any differences at all.

Think I've still got a couple lying around as well, they've always been quite cheap.

You've definitely misread him there mate....

That would leave me with one hell of a boost leak! I would sell my FMIC & 2.5" kit I guess, not sure when though, probably in a month or so once I've sorted out this new dyno which is the bane of my life. I know you are in a rush for things though.

I have a custom FMIC.

Silverline and I designed and built my custom 2.5" piping in a night, including a break to map his car. Off-the-shelf piping with silicone joiners, rearward-facing FMIC inlets/outlets. Even with a stock MAF located in the pipework, running at 1.7bar I had no boost leaks. Beads on all pipework ends plus genuine Jubilee clips.

Yes, yes you will :yes:

Nothing explains 6bar base fuel pressure. Let us know how it goes...

Hello & welcome. They make very fine drift cars :)

See if there are any DTC codes first of all. Do this first, no matter what else is suggested. Post the results. Code 55 (no errors) means it will require further investigation.

:wack: All I said was "Mityvac" :laugh: