Noz

It's an outdated method of injecting additional fuel based on boost pressure. Same as 5th injector setups on 4cyl engines. Had the same setup about 12yrs ago on my old Fiat Uno Turbo.

That's not necessarily a bad thing :) It's a good topic, albeit done to death now I suppose.

Why? Are technical debates not allowed now? I'm here to give advice & information based on my experience and will continue to do so :)

Hmm. That's a scenario that has never happened, and would never happen yet you appear to be insinuating that is how I operate. Precisely what do you understand about mapping & engine building? I'm no engine builder, but I get to work very closely with a brilliant engine builder Mr Jimmer. At this point, it would now be appropriate for you to answer the question: What I am in fact saying over & over again is that the VG does not need uprated internals for 550bhp. Your advice was incorrect. I know this because of the work I have done with the VG. The stock pistons are suitably strong at that level. The rods aren't troubled in the slightest. The fact you mention rods in your first post reveals how little you actually know about this engine, yet you have somehow come to the conclusion I map Zeds to the point of destruction. I think you'll find you are incorrect there as well, yet again. By all means, please explain why you mentioned uprated rods. I take it you have built several VG engines, and know something I and many others, do not. What are the failure modes you have seen at this power level? Did you even know that the rods were forged from the factory? If someone is building an engine to a certain spec, aftermarket parts are a preferable choice. Even if the immediate power levels are lower than what the stock engine can comfortably tolerate, it allows for future power gains. If someone wants to achieve 550bhp or higher on a stock bottom end, it isn't halted by the necessity to spend thousands on a rebuilt forged engine. There is a distinct difference between the two scenarios. If someone needs to run 700bhp on a stock bottom end, say in order to make a race weekend, that is also possible. I know this from experience, funnily enough. Thing is, you need to take into account what the car is going to be used for, and how often it is to be used. For any kind of sustained track work, I would recommend forged pistons, along with other internal modifications/upgrades at 450bhp if I was to be working with the car. But, this is off-topic. Fact still remains, OP doesn't require several thousand pounds to be spent on forged pistons & aftermarket rods for 550bhp. If he is planning on rebuilding for whatever reason (fun, higher power levels in the future, track work, tired current engine), then yes, obviously fit them. Clear yet? I couldn't give a hoot about dyno numbers when it comes to customer's cars. If you read all the "BHP predictions" threads, you'll find out that it's the owners themselves that care. The dyno is but a tool for me, with a torque output from which a lot of information can be gleaned. All experimentation is done on my own cars. If you knew anything about this subject, maybe you would understand. Regardless of your snide comments, my advice is based on experience. Please share yours. I am happy in the fact there is always someone out there with more knowledge than myself. I take it you have done similar to mapping a stock unopened 130k 2L 3SGTE to 500+ on pump fuel at 2.3 bar on a GReddy T78 (failure mode was #2 piston ringlands, not the stock composite head gasket), 383hp (hubs) on a stock CA18DET and achieved 450+bhp & 481lb·ft on the stock 300zx fuel system at 1.7bar on standard auto turbos.

Let me try and make it crystal clear, you appear to be struggling. OP isn't rebuilding. Forged internals not required for power levels. If someone is rebuilding, no-brainer to use aftermarket parts. Reasons already given.

No. Your advice is incorrect. No need for forged rods at 550bhp. OP isn't rebuilding, if he was then forged internals would be a no-brainer. A healthy VG will run at 550bhp all day long, that won't change no matter how many posts you make in this thread

You would be incorrect. Again. I have tuned a stock bottom end to well over 600bhp. I am most definitely not the only person to do so. "Cast" doesn't automatically mean weak. Not when talking about typical JDM engines such as the VG, CA, 3SGTE etc.

When rebuilding, either by choice or necessity, it is a no-brainer to use aftermarket parts when looking to increase power to 550+bhp. That is a given. But this thread is not about that. No one is rebuilding anything here :laugh:

I've yet to come across a failed Consult port, checking your cable on another car first of all is a good idea.

Indeed, but tuning VGs is something I do know about. Hence why I am commenting on this and not a thread about bodywork for example.

I am keeping within the topic of this thread, it was not a question regarding a high-spec engine build, so why are you talking about guarantees? Aftermarket rods are lighter therefore advisable for higher RPM requirements, which in turn necessitates uprated valve train components. Has OP mentioned this anywhere? Having tuned many high performance VG30DETTs, I know that aftermarket rods are not required for twin GT28RS turbochargers. There isn't any other way I can explain this to you.

Yes, everything comes down to personal choice, but that doesn't mean it is the correct advice for the OP.

Afraid not at the moment.

"Lag" really isn't a concern with the Zed for an 8.5:1 compression ratio engine with twin turbos, you can't compare them with N/A cars fairly. I was able to make 480lb·ft (fly) at just 3800rpm on the standard auto turbos. Standard Zeds hit 283lb·ft at 3600rpm. Even Jaffa with GT3071Rs made 634lb·ft (hubs) at just 4700rpm, albeit with lots of PowerZed wizardry helping. Even with the old-school GT2870 Churbos on mine, it pulls cleanly from 1500rpm in 5th. My Impreza WRX PPP would literally kangaroo itself to death. The Zed definitely does not fit my definition of lag :wack: An good spec for a very responsive but powerful setup with a stock unopened engine would use free-float billet T28-size turbos run at 2.5 bar peak with dual 50mm external wastegates (20psi springs). Blow-through MAF, 2.5" pipework, engine-bay front mount (would need to downgrade to electric fans, unfortunately), AAC valve set to 15%, 3" downpipes & fully divorced 3" exhaust system, custom engine mounts for straight intakes to the compressor housings.

Hard pipes for a TT for sale. £60 delivered including Paypal fees.

Stock Nissan actuator is ~0.5 bar.

Ah, it's just you mentioned lag, and that's not really an issue with the VG30DETT until you get to GT30xx or bigger on a stock engine. If you've ever owned/driven a Cosworth back in the day, that is real lag (well, high boost threshold to be precise). These turbos are the opposite, more responsive than stock which is a first. There is more R&D to be done though.

Which turbos do you mean?

Once I have set up & mapped the first car fully. The car has been mapped to actuator pressure (0.5 bar). The turbos have better response than stock items, I was seeing the ECU access parts of the map I haven't had to work with before on a 300zx (very low RPM, high load). Impressive so far.

Indeed, the first ones from about 9 years ago. XSPower T70 (comparable to a Garrett T61) on a 1.8L at 1.7bar and 382bhp@hubs. I bought one of my Pulsars with a Chinese GT2871 and ran that up to 2bar. The car was simply out of this world with great response. You could hold it at 130mph on part throttle, then floor it and it would push you back in the seat as if you were doing 80! I'm currently running twin Churbos at 1.7bar on my Zed. No air filters, just mesh over the inlets (not ideal for reasons other than filtration considerations). These were randomly selected and picked up from Toyosports on the way down to Jimmer's before TOTB when it became obvious that my T04Es would never be fitted in time :wack: They are performing perfectly for cheap journal turbos. I mapped Phutumsch's Zed to 590ish bhp with GSP600s. They were smoking a bit, but that could have been sorted prior to fitment in the same way as with a pair of £2k Garrett ball bearing turbos. Whatever you do Spin Doctor, do NOT spend £2k+ on a pair of Garrett GTX turbos. Massive waste of time unless you're prepared to run 2 bar minimum and have the set up in place for that boost level. With regards to the turbo in that link, you'd only need one of them with a single turbo set up. The main issue with using Churbos on a Zed is labour if they do go wrong. But that's part & parcel of Zed ownership. Garrett GT28RS turbos have a chequered history when it comes to reliability.

Safety mode doesn't work like that on these cars. It's fairly non-intrusive, and completey undetectable in certain driving conditions (ie when not under load).

As per title, I'm looking for a pair of manual front seats. Will settle for just the driver's if that's all you've got :) Cheers.

Yeah, the gold colour is pretty stunning in the flesh.

Afraid I haven't tested them, I've not been asked to and don't have any real need to at the moment. You would have to test many individual injectors to be able to infer anything regarding overall quality control and short-term operation of current batches. Then you've got long-term operation to consider, and the quality control after 1yr for example. As the saying goes, "You pays your money, you takes your chance".

It was just info regarding the crank, as you mentioned replacing both pistons & rods as if they are requied In my experience, it is not a waste of time or money, it is precisely the opposite. 550ish bhp @ fly does not need updated internals for reliable operation. So you can save yourself both of the above. Considerations obviously become different if you require OEM levels of longevity (100k miles), and at that point, even Nissan offer an OEM alternative, namely the VR38DETT.