Noz

Sorry, meant the full spec of the engine build & associated components. Intake, exhaust, headwork etc. That will help determine what turbo setup to look into. What is the purpose of your car once complete? Road, track, drag, car shows?

Hello & welcome :) What's the plan for your car? Keeping it road-based or focused for the track?

Who's building the engine? What's the full spec of your car?

Pretty much a straight fit. It's much smaller than the original pump.

I'm running the cheapest biggest turbos I could find between Leicester & Bristol at a day's notice. Second fastest Zed at TOTB by a long way after mapping it on the way there and arriving halfway through the second day :laugh: It is a good point though, however I have seen so many issues with genuine aftermarket Garrett-based turbos, I honestly don't think it matters that much.

Consult cable, diagnose properly. Even if you get lucky by finding the issue via unplugging, replugging, cleaning and hoping, chances are you'll have another issue down the line which can again be potentially solved within minutes :) All connectors should be cleaned as a matter of course, all adjustable sensors should be correctly positioned as a bare minimum. If you put the car under load when it's running so poorly, you may cause severe engine damage. Then again, you may not...

That's not the Chinese way. Think of Chinese items as a base product upon which you can decide to lavish additional outlay or your own expertise, engineering, knowledge etc to create A Very Good Item, much cheaper than the original of which the snide is based on. Or you can do it the cheapest possible way with nothing extra, taking your chance. Or buy the exact same item from the UK (for example) but rebranded and much more expensive. When I have bought electronic items from China, the first thing I do is open them up, clean off all the flux residue to halt any dendritic growth, reflow the majority of solder joints and then cover everything in conformal coating.

This is very odd. Why on Earth are Turbo Technics balancing cheap Chinese turbos for Stateside companies? I'm intrigued! China -> UK -> USA. Less profit for USA, can buy straight from China, plenty of turbo specialists in the USA. Logical route: China -> USA. China -> USA -> UK -> USA. No profit for anyone, convoluted, plenty of turbo specialists in the USA. Logical route: China -> USA.

I supply genuine AEM 320lph pumps for £90 delivered. Only problem is that I'm all out at the moment, so you may need to source one from elsewhere. They're much quieter than genuine Walbros, can barely hear them prime and there's no droning whilst running. I ran mine completely dry as part of an additional durability test and even sucking up air it was pretty quiet.

I'm seeing more & more Zeds with failing fuel pumps. As new, they were one of the best OEM pumps available, but a quarter of a century on they are no longer the powerhouses they once were. It is time for most people to consider replacing as the alternative is a melted piston or six. If your fuel pump is noisy, it's on the way out.

I'm not afraid to say I freakin' love GSP600 turbos :)

I know what it is. It's pretty swish.

Post a pic of it

Is it a red TT?

Use Consult to check sensor values first of all. Saves a great deal of time at the beginning of proper diagnosis. Measuring the AFR is very important as well.

Local garage? It's a 2 minute job and they will need to do that kind of thing on a daily basis.

Drill & screw extractor

I think the Supra MKIV was the most different between the UK & JDM models. Ceramic vs steel blade turbos, 440cc vs 550cc injectors, different cams, plus the various other differences with the bonnet scoop & better brakes etc.

Thought it was another thread about lambda sensors :wack:

I can help you with a lower limit if you like. Really isn't needed though. The only time I have needed to lower the RPM limit is on a car with hybrid turbos, boost jets and no boost control. Dropped it to 6800rpm to keep the peak inj duty lower and avoid running lean. Boost jets..... :no:

The stock limiter is at 7000rpm, I would rather hit that than an ignition cut at 6000rpm. There isn't as much fuel entering the combustion chambers of an N/A at high RPM as there is a TT.

What's wrong with the standard rev limit?

For people using them as a replacement for a stock fuel-cut RPM limit operating under load, it would be advisable to understand how these particular items actually work :laugh:

To save me from typing it out again:

They're useful for getting off the line at Santa Pod. Well, they were until Nistune released the new mappable launch control feature that utilises either the standard fuel cut or the ignition cut like the Bee*R. Now, they are a complete waste of time. Plus, the majority of them are snides. There was a guy selling them for decent money on Facebook as genuine items despite buying them for about £30 each from China. For genuine, you need to go to RHD or Nengun. Expect anything else to be FAKE.