Noz

Doubtful it's of any use to anyone on here, we're all Space-Age EFI & COP round these parts :laugh: Need to be subscribed to sell, though :)

Could be a vac leak or faulty O2 sensors. Vac leak: Visual check, boost leak test. O2 sensors: Unplug them, does the problem disappear?

It all depends on the intake setup. Will it be single intake single MAF, dual intake with Selin or without?

There's a large difference in length of pipework, especially on the cold side. Plus three additional 90° bends per side. Note that this guy has got confused with pipe routing.... As it should be: This picture really higlights the ridiculous length of pipework and associated pressure drop that the turbos are required to work harder in order to overcome. Grim :laugh: Compared to.... The TDM FMIC above is exactly how I've been running my set up for 18 moths, albeit with pipework that is not ideal as it was completed from start to finish in a single day (big up the Silverline). With any FMIC and short dual intake, you can immediately halve the turbo inlet tract. A proper FMIC set up will always be preferable to a SMIC setup. It's well known with every other performance vehicle, the Zed is no exception. By "proper FMIC set up", I mean similar to the TDM item, with air filters situated down where the SMIC reside with no 90° bends under the headlights. Simply not possible with SMIC, no matter how "B.A." :wack: Rather than build a custom set up, people just make do with eBay items and stock 2" IC pipework. Only in this situation would a massive pair of SMIC with the 2.5" pipework be preferable. The intercoolers I've run on various turbocharged 4 cylinder engines have been the same size as a typical Zed front mount, usually 3" pipework. The difference being all that was for a single turbo, from a T28 to a T78 and anything inbetween. The VG is no exception as far as I'm aware. It's just the Z32 engine bay makes things difficult. I've a good idea of what's needed and how I'm going to set up my own car based on what has worked for countless other vehicles, building upon my own Zed setup with stock Auto turbos, and of course the many Zed power curves & tuning results I have stockpiled. I've already done away with the entire inlet pipework by going to a blow-through set up (although this type of setup needs evaluating fully), next is to maximise the intercooling capabilities. Then lots & lots of dyno testing. Well, that's the plan I have in mind. A single inlet plenum would be nice, but I need to work with the stock one for some time yet, as that is what people use :D

Always a pleasure, Sir :)

Remember it'll be a single MAF set up, albeit F150. With that in mind, it looks as though the AMS may be the better bet as you'll be using the standard T-Piece unless you want me to go hunting for a custom section. If so, I'll need the kit in front of me first of all. If that's the case, the AshSpec set up looks like the winner due to the horizontal orientationat the MAF end.

:chinese:

There are significant benefits: Less pipework length, no 90° bends, the option to locate it in the engine bay as you are doing it.

Looking forward to seeing the finished article :)

Oi, what's all this about? £800 Stage 1 chip. Get it right.

All the best mate

If you're considering selling, I would be very interested. I LOVE the colour and the look of the car. If you're keeping it, speak to Jimmer @ PowerZed if you're going for an engine rebuild. A known working replacement engine is a good alternative as well.

How much? That would be amazing. Must be a few grand for the day. But what a day!

That would be fun to see. Tried it on Forza 4 but it's not as much fun as watching it in real life.

I was talking to Dan :lol:

^^ That actually looks like the bottom inlets are 2", not 2.5". Harby on here has one.

Sorry. Wasn't expecting such a firm bite.

I downloaded this ages ago. It's a £1500 TT in red.

They are great figures. I don't really believe them though...

HKS 10W45 made by Idemitsu.

Autobahn ones are 2.5"

Very good torque on yours, but they didn't perform on this particular car. Jimmer didn't build his, either :)

To get the most out of any turbo, you need minimal intake & exhaust restrictions. My little stock 1.8 CA18DET held 1.7 bar on a T70 to the redline. 3" turbo back exhaust, 4" inlet with a slight curve, 3" intercooler pipework, intercooler situated in the engine bay. My 2.0 3SGTE held 2.3 bar to the redline on a Greddy T78. The intake was a 4" pipe about 10" long with a massive K&N on it, the exhaust was a 3.5" almost straight piece of stainless tube straight out the side of the car. Affectionally titled my "Stupid Side-Exit" Before I had chance to cut it down: Alternatively, for the Zed you have this: Speak to Jimmer about some serious porting work.

I will be mapping a car with those very turbos either this Saturday or early next week. I'm really not a fan of GTX turbochargers. They need at least 2 bar of boost, else you may as well use the non-billet versions. To get that boost level efficiently from a VG in the Z32 engine bay requires some serious consideration. On the 613bhp car with GTX2860s, we disconnected the actuator pressure reference line to produce maximum possible boost. They only made about 1.8 bar.

A comfortable 650whp will need a more than the two T28-based turbos you linked I'm afraid. I've worked with a high-powered Zed with Z1 GT600r turbos and he subsequently removed them to refit stock manuals, such was the poor performance. Going back to stock, he lost bhp (540bhp -> 480bhp), but made more torque (430lb·ft -> 480lb·ft) IIRC.He's now running GTX2860s and making 613bhp (fly) through a single intake! At the kind of power you're looking to achieve, a full standalone ECU does become something to consider, although it's not essential. You need to be thinking outside the box really when shooting for circa 730bhp, not going on what is written on Z1's website. Have a good discussion with Jimmer, and follow his advice with regards to the engine spec. We work closely together, he builds them, I map them :)