Noz

So, how's everyone coming along? I should be finishing off the new blow-through MAF R&D in the next couple of weeks between mapping Hondas searching for that extra 10bhp. The Zed idles better on my new system with no lambda feedback than the stock MAF with lambda feedback. So far so good. Then I'll be seeing what it does on the dyno before the next round of modifications (new intercoolers & rad setup, new exhaust system, AEM meth injection).

Just got all my updates through :)

Yes, that would cause it to run lean on boost and rich below atmospheric pressure (compensated to a point by lambda feedback if O2 sensors are operational). As I said, the only thing that would cause the boost to remain at 0.6 bar would be if the car was going into safety mode from detonation being detected. If it made 320bhp at 15psi, then it clearly wasn't restricted to 0.6 bar in the same way. Plus, it wasn't lean on boost, as explained earlier in post #55 after you posted the graphs.

Where was the FPR vacuum line connected to? The FPR won't directly stop you from making boost. If it was running lean on boost, it may have been knocking which would put the car in safety mode with reduced boost. Assuming the boost solenoids are still in place, of course.

Without looking, I take it it's a camo-green weapon?

Same friction material as OEM clutches, as opposed to ceramic, carbon, Kevlar etc.

Whatever you do, be wary of buying a clutch from Z1. Had 2 fail on the dyno at very moderate power levels now.

What's the full spec & power?

Good to see you enjoying it at every opportunity :D

I was going to have the shells done in mine for peace of mind when it was down at Jimmer's, but we ran out of time so still running with the original ones.

Wouldn't cause any problems. Equal is always optimal, though.

A dual port actuator with both ports utilised mimics the method of boost control using an external wastegate. The top port simply forces the wategate valve closed. Using an EBC in "ext wg" configuraton allows for more accurate boost control. That's the main purpose of them. They do allow for higher boost but you should always specify the actuator spring & preload correctly first & foremost for a suitable base boost setting. I have run GTX2860 turbos with the pressure source to the actuators disconnected and only saw a peak of 1.8bar. A clear mismatch, the actuator springs should have been 20psi.

Sounds like it's been put together badly and is going to need attention to get it running as it should be. Saying that, if it's just a case of installing the boost controller properly and ensuring it's running safely, that'll be easily rectified. I can analyse the ECU if you require it.

Code 34 is for a faulty knock sensor or associated loom. If the knock sensor detects knock, even spuriously, then car will use the knock maps and safety boost temporarily. You need to know exactly what map is in that ECU. Can't always rely on stickers. Pull the file.

An open screamer pipe won't be venting on an MOT, so shouldn't be a fail in that regard. As for "road legal"... If you got caught with them venting at full boost, noise/air pollution will be the last thing on the Officer's mind. You can always plumb it back into the system further down as opposed to a few inches from the turbine housing.

Isn't there a thread where your boost issues were covered a short while ago? Are the boost solenoids connected? Code 34 and detected knock are 2 completely different things. What map is it running? Just because it's rich, doesn't mean there's no detonation. Fuelling AND timing are important.

You asked me a question directly and said you've never heard of failed piston rings. I answered. Yes, terminology matters for swift diagnosis. Broken, failed cylinder = ring or bore damage and low compression, typically. Cylinder not firing, could be various issues.

Oh I know how parts main dealers & parts suppliers work, but you're talking about people not knowing left from right when this thread highlights that left/right doesn't ALWAYS work when diagnosing issues on the internet. Big difference between coolant & windscreen washer fluid :laugh:

Hello & welcome :)

Use a long screwdriver to listen to the injectors "clicking". Is cyl 6 the same as others? Remove balance bar. Check all connections visually. Close up the female terminals, scrape away any green oxidisation. Remove plug, place in coil pack, ground on plenum, crank engine, do you have spark? Swap coil pack, does issue change to different cylinder? Remove all plugs, compression check entire engine, throttle open. Check resistivity for all injectors. Injector, injector connector, spark plug, coil pack, coil pack connector, loom (inc at PTU), compression (ringlands, valve). These are possible causes. Time for basic health check. You only need basic hand tools until compression test or ohm test. Literally takes a couple of minutes to rule out injector, spark plug or coil pack failure for a single cylinder.

Posted again. You're talking about failed cylinders. Thread title is "broken cylinder". If it's compression-related, it will be the ringlands most likely. You need to detrmine what the issue is.

How can right/left be more specific than driver's/passenger's when restricted to territory? If I'm looking in an engine bay, the sides are swapped. Would have saved time in this thread.

Definitely could be electrical, first thing that needs to be done is a compression check. 15mins is all that is required to determine if it's injector, plug, coil pack or compression.

Ringlands

Mine has no rust at all. Clean as a whistle!