Noz

Shall I add your name to the list?

I've had some good results with GTX turbos recently. GTX2860 @ 1.7bar made 613bhp on a single MAF and GTX2863 @ 1.6bar made 570bhp & 577lb·ft) . They definitely require a love of boost to make the good things happen :D

Long time, no speak. What's the current spec?

Once you set the TPS voltage to 0.44v, disconnect the oval plug for at least 5s and it will reset the idle switch to turn off at the appropriate voltage (~0.50v). I am not a fan of BP fuels. For the best knock resistance currently available, use Tesco Momentum99 followed by V Power Nitro. I can't answer if it's safe to drive the car or not I'm afraid. It's definitely not ideal until DTC34 is resolved.

TPS voltage is too high in the first pic, assuming you weren't feathering the throttle slightly. AAC needs to come out a long way, should be 15%, not 48%. TPS voltage still slightly high at 0.48v. Set it to 0.44v. Once your car has been properly checked over (AFR & knock), it is perfectly safe to bypass the knock sensor with a 1M ohm resistor, as long as you always use 99RON or whatever the car was tuned for.

Done a fair bit of road testing in the LWB, refining the map & testing the mild antilag on the Nistune ECU. 1 bar boost in neutral at just 4500 rpm. Decided to sell the SWB. It's too mint to turn into a development mule for all my ideas :wack: Picked up this genuine UK EH7 pearlescent yellow Stillen-kitted beauty:

First thing to do is never "drive through" any kind of hesitation or misfire, especially one that occurs on boost. If it's a fuelling problem, it could be running lean and you may damage the engine.

That was advertised recently on Gumtree for £1500. It's a dedicated drift car so aesthetics aren't overly important. Was up for sale a while ago for some time as well. Cheap car, should do what it's intended to.

Hello & welcome :)

You should probably get that looked at :laugh:

Haha, yeah. I've scratched my Toyota itch.

All the best mate :pint:

Looking swish :)

They are a great quality product, and if that specific model matches the stock MAF perfectly for an 80mm housing, it's an absolute no-brainer. I'll probably get one of those specific models in the next couple of weeks and do some testing, hoping that the mounting screws line up with my current PMAS sensor :)

I offered my take on them. They measure airflow the same as any other MAF. The difference being they can be very labour intensive to set up correctly. Which would be a concern for most people.

Google is your friend then.

You will have cold air, and demist works, just slower. Open the windows to help. Monday I mapped a Zed with bypassed matrix and needed to drive it 60 miles and it was fine.

Oh yes, dialling in the VQ map for these is great fun.....

Leaking heater matrix.

Bypassed the idle control valve at last, started dialling in the new blow-through MAF sensor on the dyno finally.

Hello & welcome!! I've been looking at your MR2 1.5 on RR :D

That looks terrible to me, completely out of proportion from every angle. But "30mpg" & "0-60 in 4.2s" has me sold :laugh:

Are you just inputting random numbers?

If it was connected to the top ports only, you would get "infinite" boost. Have a look into how external wastegates work if you're diagnosing issues. They worked in the past, so unless you've physically swapped connections around, I can't see that being the case.

I had to remove one of those from a Honda Civic I was mapping as it really messed around with the fuelling. It was very strange. That particular one had a digital readout, with ignition off it read 13.4v.