Noz

TOTB for me.

I would expect the garage owner to put it right straight off the bat, otherwise it would be a case for his insurers. Some rolling roads have you sign a liability waiver, but this is typically for public RR days or when you simply want a power run. Not where mapping is involved. Or poor strapping down practices :laugh:

Wow! The straps at the rear look about as sturdy as luggage straps. Scary stuff. Funny too :laugh:

Just try and get your money back. Involve the police. He "died" in 2011: http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=168610&page=3&p=1812666&viewfull=1#post1812666

From January: Have you determined if it's been mapped to suit the boost yet? Compression test results?

It's the same AEM kit I sold to bigh and quite a few others. I sell AEM items, HKS, Exedy, Competition Clutch etc. I don't do any mechanical work nowadays, there are others much more suited to it. I mean, imagine if I hit my fingers with a hammer, how would I press the [more BHP] key on my laptop :wack: The AEM kits have an output that can be used in the Nistune software to display AFR on a laptop. Prices are on the thread, £295 for 2 kits, 1 for each bank. Think I've just sold my last pair, so may be a slight delay before the next batch* *Edit: Have sold them but more are available :)

UK car, located in Plymouth, blended bodykit, no mention of the sills having been done. Proceed with caution!

OEM rods & crank are forged from the factory. Pistons were cast.

It depends on the planned usage of the car. Uprated rods are only really required if you're looking for a (relatively) high-revving engine, heavy track use or serious power levels with prolonged reliability. They are forged as stock, but obviously heavier than aftermarket items. Depending on the turbos you choose, a solid 500-550bhp should be achievable with good longevity. There are so many variables, the power levels that are "comfortable" depend so much on the overall setup. Another major variable is how well the engine has been built in the first place. If this is an unknown, I'd suggest taking it to Jimmer/PowerZed for a full strip down, assessment and reassemble.

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?180685-AEM-Fuel-pumps-FPRs-EBCs-Wideband-AFR-Kits-amp-MORE!

Yes, they're a completely different design, other than both being side feed high impedance injectors.

Sorry, my bad. Didn't read it as such :blush:

It was all over Facebook. There have been a lot of different people with issues. It was only when people started getting serious (fraud squad, crime numbers etc) that one guy had his refund confirmed. Post in the Facebook page, the admins are very aware of the previous situations. I've met him as he bought a widearch kit from me.

RB25DET use pintleless sidefeed injectors, early Zeds use injectors with pintles. You will require a fitting kit, which comprises of rail & loom adaptors.

Hello & welcome :)

All the best :pint:

It pays to monitor both banks, the offside typically runs slightly leaner (approx 0.3:1) than the near side. I also don't think the exhaust flow in the crossover section will lend itself to accurate readings.

:confused1: Excuse me? I gave you the answer 38 minutes after you posted this thread. 1 week ago. Along with the instructions in whichever kit you've bought, I'm not quite sure what else is needed to be said...

The gases aren't doing anything differently other than cooling, expanding & travelling at a slower rate. Fuel content does NOT alter depending on the distance from the head unless there is an exhaust leak pre-sensor. Condensation is an issue due to thermal shock once the engine is started and the sensor is already up to temp. It is also considered a contaminant, hence you position the sensors above the horizontal so condensation cannot enter the sensor. No such thing as "mixed readings".

Follow the instructions in the kit you bought. Why are you trying to fit a bung in the turbo elbow close to the turbo outlet when there is an entire exhaust system to work with?

See what happens after the 6th is soldered :) The loom on my LWB is not the best, it's always had crimped connectors for injectors and not had an issue, even with an excess of the dreaded green corrosion (I've said before that I keep my main Zed in average condition on purpose. Soon to be changing now that I have done all the work I will ever need to on a relatively stock setup). It needs diagnosing properly if the misfire persists. Think I mentioned here back on 9th January that the AFR needs monitoring. The cause of the misfire needs to be determined. Hopefully it's the final injector connector :)

Catch me on my mobile tomorrow early afternoon. If I don't answer, please leave a message and I will get back to you ASAP :)

I will have one available with a freshly built engine and all work done by Jimmer/PowerZed and fully mapped & setup by myself. Depending on the spec you want, it will have a genuine 400-500bhp. UK manual TT in red. Edit: With your budget, it would be possible to hit mid to high 500s, possibly 600bhp. Alternatively, how about a SWB manual NA? Can be converted to TT of course.....

Yeah, whatever. Just PM your postal address.

Forget Maplins, I'd rather send you one for free :wack: