Everything posted by siraff
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re-shell - worth it?
BTW, i forgot, this one is my 2nd one. not the one im building to go fast. that one's nice and straight. :)
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re-shell - worth it?
hi all. i have at the moment one of (if not THE) worst condition Z's ever. it has been crashed at least once and looks like a lot more. on the good side, mechanically its very impressive. no smoke, rattles, leaks, etc and it has good strong power and behaves very well. im just wandering if its worth breaking it for parts or re-shelling it? interior = tweed but very good cond, everything works, etc. its an auto LWB TT T-bar. N/A front bumper, its had a rear 1/4 (badly fitted), had the right hand side bashed in at some point, the door window shuts against the targa, front crossmember is bashed and bent, etc. but its got 11 months MOT and tax and seems to work ok (although i dont really want to push it as i never trust and ex-crashed car). i know in bits its worth 2k+ i also know that with a re-shell its worth 2.5-3K+ i dont know how much a shell would be or if it would be worth all the work? any comments, suggestions, etc? cheers. si. :wack:
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what bits to use - internals
i did think about this but i think after you've taken the cost of the engine, all the anciliaries, ECU, etc, one off mounts, and all the stuff under the bonnet you'd have to change then it becomes a VERY expensive option. then you have the problems of will it actually go in under the bonnet (longer and taller than a VG) and more front and higher up weight it would probably be a strange looking and handling thing. then you still have to do the same tuning to it and every big power RB i've seen has been stroked which brings a lot more cost into it. all in all i think its probably more cost-effective to stick with the VG and tune the hell out of it. and for a better engine swap i'd go for the chevy small block V8 with a huge blower on it. better weight distribution than the RB, more power potential and a hell of a lot more torque. jap tuners tend to steer clear of the VG more because its harder to get to the engine to do the development work rather than it being harder to work on/etc. a skyline GTR is a big car with a lot of room in its engine bay so its easy to work on the engine. if the VG had gone into the skyline i think it could have been a better car. always wandered why they stuck with the RB when they had the VG about. i came to the conclusion that either the RB was already in the car so they just developed it or the VG couldnt meet the stricter emmissions regs? anyone know? si.
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manual ECU in an auto?
oh. i see. so basically if i put a manual ECU on an auto it'll run ok but probably kill the 'box fast yeah? si.
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what bits to use - internals
nice one for that. good link there. some very nice stuff. will the escort manifolds support the twin gt30R's then or will i still need to lose the aircon, etc? si.
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what bits to use - internals
hmm..... quite like the look of them. im still not sure though. where do you get escort manifolds and roughly how much are they gonna kill me for? :) si.
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what bits to use - internals
can you get GT30R's in? and how much will i be likely to get them for? si.
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manual ECU in an auto?
i dont get it. if the auto one runs the manual ok then how come it doesnt work the other way round? and i think i have a good contendor for "worst Z in the UK" again lol
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manual ECU in an auto?
probably been mentioned before but as usual i cant find it. as above - will it work or not? thanks. si.
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reverse glow gauges
aint got a clue mate but have you got any pics of the gauges and any info on where to get them? cheers. si.
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New Member
200sx's are quite strange cars to drive for me. the engines are peaky and the chassis is nervous. after waiting ages for them to boost they are very tail happy. more track-orientated than the Z which isnt clever on the road and when you want decent power you usually get lots of lag. nice cars and cheaper to buy/run/tune (i nearly bought one myself before the auto Z) but 200/Z = no contest to me. the Z's better equipped, more comfy, faster and less on the edge which makes it a lot quicker on the road for most people (me included). and yes, the Z deffinately looks better. and mod for mod you'll get more power. and there's more potential. and they dont rot as much (unless its a jap - get it undersealed asap). and if you're after bragging rights down the pub they have bigger numbers. si.
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wheel bolts
and stella: nice one for thinking of it and taking the time to do things properly. i saw a barry in a s#1t fiesta with the wheel overtaking him the other day. i had to stop after he'd slid sideways and blocked the road (only doing about 20mph in roadworks - lucky for him). turned out he'd done the shell in on the raised manhole cover he slid over. all because he'd left the origional bolts on and brought the wrong fit wheels. at the time i kinda felt sorry for him (he was only a kid) but after i thought "what a kn0b". thinking back it was kinda funny. si.
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wheel bolts
i think he means longer bolts for his spacers? i think you can get them from most places that do big wheels and spacers? not sure all of them do them though? si.
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Are these wheels stunning or what?
they are nice. if i hadnt had to pay nearly 1k for insurance this week i'd be having a click on buy it now for them. si.
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New Member
welcome! 1st rear drive? a Z? nice one! is this '93 a TT or N/A? i think the N/A manual is actually quite an easy rear driver to learn the principles in. the TT's are a little less forgiving (and dont get carried away with the right pedal round corners, no matter how slight they are) and the auto's are just nasty in the wet. i think the biggest way they catch you is when you are already moving quite fast round a bend (like 60+mph), boot it and it grips and f99ks off........... then boost comes into it and the back lets go - big. the first time it happens in a turbo'd RWD it'll scare the hell out of you and you'll want to sell it. the second time you'll think "hmmm" and once you're used to it it becomes great fun just using the power to control the back out of bends. it probably looks good too but from where i sit i dont really care. it gives you a real sense that its got real power unlike imprezas, early evo's, etc where they put good numbers on paper then feel like a let down when you drive them. oh and they drive NICE!!!!! si.
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what bits to use - internals
cheers smithy. got it working now. mowgs: have you got any pictures? si.
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what bits to use - internals
cant get that link to work. keeps saying server not found. i've never seen a single turbo'd Z TBH but i'd like to. and i dont think of lag as a problem, more waiting for the fun. cheers. si.
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Anyone knowwho makes these?
not sure but try these: http://www.forgeline.com/wheels/ls.html si.
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decat
how come mate? i didnt know that :dance:
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quickieL: compression ratio? whats standard?
nice one mate. thanks for that. si.
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drivers window
short in the wiring? mayb a bad earth somewhere? if its an intermittent short it could be burning the relay out? try another relay and this is most likely the prob but could be hard to find if it only happens when the cars moving. si.
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auto's and mods
nice one m8. do you know if i can use a manual ECU in it as i have a nice JD mapped one lying around now? it is a jap so i'll get the cooler done before any boost. i'll change the tranny fluid too just to make sure. gotta get a TT front bumper on it too and some TT clocks. (not sure if its a converted N/A or if the bits were just cheap?). either way its jap cuz the belts are on the doors and its an origional TT engine. dunno about the rest of the car though. who'd put N/A clocks and front bumper on a TT? hmm... what boost you running mate? cheers. si.
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what bits to use - internals
cheers mate. i'd quite like a big single too. as you say it'd be a bit unique on a Z and i'd really like to keep the PAS/aircon (when its getting big power its gonna get HOT in that cabin and i dont want to struggle to turn it). I'd be eternally greatful if you could look it up for me as flow charts just go straight over my head in a big way. i dont really care if its s#@t round town or if it doesnt wake up properly untill 5krpm. to me thats fun. i know most people would see it as overkill and a pain in the ass but thats what im after. loads of lag, massive boost pressure and a car thats almost dangerous to drive. thats why i ride big bikes instead of having 600/750cc class bikes that are usually faster. the big one's always more fun and i dont care if i get overtaken by people with far less power. im not out to prove a point lol. thats for sad people. lets face it, if you just want ultimate speed, you wouldnt really go for a Z in the first place as there are lots of lighter, more powerful cars that are easier to get silly power from these days. i just really like the way they drive and now i want a real b1tc# of an engine to make it scare me. lol i'd like it to rev to about 8.5k too, even if the boost has to tail off after 7k, just so when i change gear its back in the power bulge again. skyline's have been doing this for 10 years now from less cc's and i think the Z deserves some big power cars too. i know it'll spin the wwheels when it boosts and i know it'll be undriveable but i really dont care. lol can you have a look at the flow chart for the HKS T51R for me, especially, please? i think £1300 for one of those is a bargain. dont forget, it wont be running standard RPM so 3000cc between 4.5 and 8.5krpm would be nice. cheers in advance mate. si.
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auto's and mods
hi all. i've been searching for threads for the last hour on what mods people reccomend for auto's and im getting nowhere. am i typing the wrong stuff in? tried auto, automatic, mod, modified, modifications, chip, ecu, intake, exhaust, etc etc. :headvswal :headvswal :headvswal basically i just want my new auto to be a bit "more" if you know what i mean. nothing drastic but enough to make it interesting. can you run a bit more (like 1.0 bar) boost or will it need the 'box chipping? dont really want to spend much on the auto for mods as im going silly on the manual so cheap power gains would be nice. think i'll be happy at about 330-350bhp in this one. its already got a pair of backboxes but no de-cats and :eek: NO smoke at all, ever!!!! so basically, if i run an intake, chip and a bar, will the 'box get confused or will it be ok? never had an auto before so its a new thing for me. cheers, folks. si.
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quickieL: compression ratio? whats standard?
just been on JE's website and they seem to think that the TTZ is 9.0-1 or 11.0-1??? i think it may be me that doesnt understand the website though. can anyone tell me what stock is? im after about 7.5-1 once my engine is done. thanks. si. http://www.jepistons.com/cat/je/sport/nissan/vg30de.shtml